problem starting when warm
Posted
Old Timer
problem starting when warm
Who knows?
But i do know that i am no longer going na use supermarket fuel in my MK1
Fill up with shell optimax & see how you get on
baz
maybe supermarket fuel has a lower vapourising point :dontknow:
Posted
Settled In
Good luck mate, try not to let it dull your enthusiasm, you'll get there :wink: .
Posted
Old Timer
cheers
any updates
Posted
Website Manager
Posted
Settled In
jamiebell said
i am using supermarket fuel
its strange though as when i got it back last week i ran it for a couple of hours stopping and starting at intervals and it was completly fine :roll: i have had the car a few months now and done 85 miles in it 8O i want to get it sorted so i can go to bugjam in it at the end of july
surely i have to be a way down the list of things to try :dontknow:
Out of interest what RON fuel are you running? i.e normal unleaded (95) or super (97/98/99)
Posted
Settling In
filler neck doesnt look bad but i will try checking it out
fuel pump relay will now also get a check cheers lhasadreams
metering head leak will also get a mention when i next take it to the garage or mechanic friend thanks granty
the problem is i am not mechanicly minded at all so i cant do these 'simple' checks myself without frustration beating me :roll: so i just keep having to pass on this info from you guys to the mechanics
thanks again for all the ideas/help keep them coming
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Settling In
Check your fuel system from front to back. I have been down this road twice. If you have a boost pump in the tank, check that first. They get weak with age and they tend to get even weaker when warm. If your boost pump is worn, it loads the main pump (by right rear wheel) and then it starts to lose pressure. You need something like 70 psi of fuel pressure for the CIS system to work reliably. If you have a Warm Up Regulator - check that as well. It is often overlooked.
If you have a boost pump in the tank (in the trunk in some and under the back seat in the Cabby) then pull it and look in the tank and see how rusty it is. You may have a crud problem plugging your lines. FYI: if you suspect the accumulator all you have to do is check to see if the little rivet is weeping fuel on the back side. If it's dry then 99% of the time it's good.
1987 Cabriolet - Daily Driver
1989 Cabriolet - gone to crusher
1973 VW Bus - Sold
1997 Toyota Previa S/C All Wheel - Daily D
2007 Toyota FJ - Sold
2011 Toyota Venza
1989 Cabriolet - gone to crusher
1973 VW Bus - Sold
1997 Toyota Previa S/C All Wheel - Daily D
2007 Toyota FJ - Sold
2011 Toyota Venza
Posted
Old Timer
"LittleBetty" said
You are wasting your time and money on higher octane fuel. This will make zero difference. Octane numbers matter only in higher compression situations.
hi
Disagree
Last year i would of probably agreed , but not anymore , the mk1s were designed to run on leaded fuel which was 97-98 octane , so the alternative now is super-unleaded.
My mk1 is running/starting like a dream since i changed from 95octane supermarket fuel . it was fingers crossed starting when Hot before
baz
The guy says his metering head is leaking , its got to be first on the list.
Posted
Settling In
LittleBetty said
You are wasting your time and money on higher octane fuel. This will make zero difference. Octane numbers matter only in higher compression situations.
Check your fuel system from front to back. I have been down this road twice. If you have a boost pump in the tank, check that first. They get weak with age and they tend to get even weaker when warm. If your boost pump is worn, it loads the main pump (by right rear wheel) and then it starts to lose pressure. You need something like 70 psi of fuel pressure for the CIS system to work reliably. If you have a Warm Up Regulator - check that as well. It is often overlooked.
If you have a boost pump in the tank (in the trunk in some and under the back seat in the Cabby) then pull it and look in the tank and see how rusty it is. You may have a crud problem plugging your lines. FYI: if you suspect the accumulator all you have to do is check to see if the little rivet is weeping fuel on the back side. If it's dry then 99% of the time it's good.
cheers for the advice,like i said i have a new accumulator on so its not that,il check the wur and the fuel tank check is next on the list,to be honest im not sure if i have a boost pump or not :redfaced: its a a reg cabby 18 8valve gti
Posted
Settling In
1987 Cabriolet - Daily Driver
1989 Cabriolet - gone to crusher
1973 VW Bus - Sold
1997 Toyota Previa S/C All Wheel - Daily D
2007 Toyota FJ - Sold
2011 Toyota Venza
1989 Cabriolet - gone to crusher
1973 VW Bus - Sold
1997 Toyota Previa S/C All Wheel - Daily D
2007 Toyota FJ - Sold
2011 Toyota Venza
Posted
Settling In
jellybelly said
if you metering head has a leak then this might be the cause get that sorted straight away
i didnt mean i have a leaking metering head its just a member mentioned it on this thread so i will ask them to have a look for one,im trying to explore every avenue
Posted
Settling In
Posted
Old Timer
is your only issue hot starting?
if its yes to the above two Qs, i doubt its your fuel pump. But maybe its a sign there is rust in your system if the Pump is working hard.
have you tried running it on non-supermarket fuel ? costs nothing to try this.
does the car start first turn of the starter motor when its cold? & then run perfectly straight away?
Posted
Settling In
the problem is it never does it when i have someone to look at it :dontknow: soda law eh
Posted
Old Timer
jamiebell said
its starts first time every time from cold but then runs a bit lumpy for a minute or so and then its fine until the above problem starts to occur,im going to stick some better fuel in as soon as i have run this batch down a bit
the problem is it never does it when i have someone to look at it :dontknow: soda law eh
Injectors are leaking
Posted
Settling In
i realy realy appreciate all the helps you guys are giving me with this when i get it sorted il be buying a few of you a beer at the meets 8)
Posted
Old Timer
jamiebell said
so a new set of injectors and seals are on the to do list as well now :roll: never mind as long as it gets sorted
i realy realy appreciate all the helps you guys are giving me with this when i get it sorted il be buying a few of you a beer at the meets 8)
The reason i now think its injectors is because it sounds like your injectors are flooding the engine when youve left the car over-night , hence the lumpy start-up
You should maybe test them first , how to guide on the left.
good luck
baz
Yip of course back to the Main problem ( hot starts ) leaky injectors will also cause problems starting when hot
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