fuse box and relay help due to dash clocks still not working
Posted
#1301347
(In Topic #156660)
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posted recently about the hash of the wiring behind the dash clocks, nothing worked on them, ie indicators, main beam, temp gauge etc etc
had an auto sparky out who re soldered the wiring, we agreed to leave it at that for now (bloody expensive) and when my new clocks arrived I'd get back to him if they still didnt work
new clocks arrive, plug in and nothing still.??
ive plugged them into a mates mk1 caddy and everything on the clocks work as they should, even the old original clocks I got with the car show up a working lcd/clock !!!
obviously there is something still wrong with the wiring/fuse/relays but what
I'm hoping to rule out a few things with advice on here before I have to resort to calling the sparky out again.
Everything else on the car is fine dash wise, ie heater works, hazzards flash, headlights work, handbrake light works. I'm at a loss as to what to check next
help please
cheers
pic of my fusebox for reference (maybe there is something obvious in this pic ??)
Posted
Local Hero
Posted
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Yomp said
Year of car, model etc. may help us.
sorry, its a 1.3 4sp X '82 jetta
Posted
MOTY 2013
I'm assuming you have late type clocks, if so:
1 - blu/gry - Light switch pin 58b (dash lighting)
2 - brn - Earth
3 - pur/blk - Fusebox pin E/12 (fuel level sender)
4 - blu/yel - Fusebox pin D/8 (coolant temp sensor)
5 - red/blk - Fusebox pin D/15 (rev counter)
6 - red - Fusebox pin D/14 (permanent live)
7 - blu/wht - Fusebox pin D/22 (high beam warning)
9 - yel - Fusebox pin D/18 (high oil pressure warning switch) (blk/blu on early models)
10- brn/red
11- blu/blk - Spade to engine loom behind fusebox (low oil pressure warning warning switch)
12- blu - Fusebox pin D/2 (alternator warning light)
13- blu/red - Fusebox pin D/1 (indicator warning lamp)
14- blk - Ignition switch pin 15 (ignition live feed)
main thing, check the live and ignition live pins are getting feeds, and the earth has good continuity to ground. live feed comes from fuse 7.
also check all the fuse sockets, they looks a bit corroded on some. check fuses are all ok too, use a multimeter if possible
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I'm ashamed to say but glad i've now realised the random green wire that the auto sparky taped to the loom as he didnt know what it was is actually the ignition switch live !!! i traced it back as it seemed so random just being there, its the black wire underneath green tape which leads straight to the ignition
it's missing its spade connector and VW have one left haha I read into that there's no stock but we will see tomorrow if it arrives.
pop it onto the end of the "random" wire and into slot 14 on the plug and hopefully bobs your uncle !!!
i'll update if all doesn't go to plan
thanks again for the detailed info
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what i/my mate has done so far.
confirmed the new set of clocks works on his caddy
sourced an ignition live cable and inserted it into the white clock loom plug (see 1st pic up there ^^^ its the taped up green wire !!!!!)
clocks now operate, kind of…………….
with ignition live on I get this
camera flashed when taking but bascially I get oil light on all the time (dunno, normal??) , temp light flashes then goes out (I know to be normal) Indicator green light on permanent but DULL. NO battery light at all (not normal ???) and no high beam flash when I pull the stalk
thats where it stops being ok'ish
.
.
.
.
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no indicators at all, so we then went onto the hazzards as we had read indicators go through the hazzard switch.
nothing!!
swapped relay and with a multi meter confirmed power into the white plug here
I had two different hazzard switches to go at, the first ones makes the green LED in the clocks go super bright but does not activate indicators or hazzards. the second switch did nothing at all other than switch the DULL green LED off totally ???
We then checked the fuse in the fusebox and found it had popped, it was a 5 amp (((((( see very first pic, notice the fuse isnt popped here ???))))))
only having an 8amp but wanting to try we stuck that one in, and it blew immediately. tried again and got what sounded like a crackle and again blew another 8amp.
from the interweb it appears it should be a 5amp, but that would mean the 8 should hold in there no??
basically thats where we are at and we are PROPER stuck now??
also see this pic, whilst fannying about under the fusebox I found another random RED live wire, this wasnt taped up or connected to ANYTHING, just dangling behind the dash (FFS !!!!!) i've traced it back and it appears to be coming from here
any ideas what its for, its defo a permanent live
then into this blue block here
sorry I know its alot of info, but if someone can help that'd be awesome cheers
Last edit: by veedubmaster
Posted
MOTY 2013
fuse 14 thats popped yes? if so thats for front and rear side lights on the left side
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a big thanks for returning to my thread of woes
Ive got a full set of fuses on order, an as new S1 fusebox and I've taken my hazzard switch from my other jetta which I know works (because I tried it haha)
I'm gonna give it all an overhaul and see where we go from there
why did it pop the fuses do you think, was it simply due to not having the ign live blue/black plugged in when I switched the hazzards on ??
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Sorry for high jacking the thread
Sticker Pig
Posted
MOTY 2013
9double9: yeah i would say so, if it has an mfa the dash earths to the side of the head, if not it earths to the claw behind the fusebox. for the rear lights check the earth to the chassis is good
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rubjonny said
1st thing is look at the plug, check the pins are all nice and straight. also make sure they poke out a fair amount, if they have bent flat use a pick to pull them up a bit so they make bettwer contact.
I'm assuming you have late type clocks, if so:
1 - blu/gry - Light switch pin 58b (dash lighting)
2 - brn - Earth
3 - pur/blk - Fusebox pin E/12 (fuel level sender)
4 - blu/yel - Fusebox pin D/8 (coolant temp sensor)
5 - red/blk - Fusebox pin D/15 (rev counter)
6 - red - Fusebox pin D/14 (permanent live)
7 - blu/wht - Fusebox pin D/22 (high beam warning)
9 - yel - Fusebox pin D/18 (high oil pressure warning switch) (blk/blu on early models)
10- brn/red
11- blu/blk - Spade to engine loom behind fusebox (low oil pressure warning warning switch)
12- blu - Fusebox pin D/2 (alternator warning light)
13- blu/red - Fusebox pin D/1 (indicator warning lamp)
14- blk - Ignition switch pin 15 (ignition live feed)
main thing, check the live and ignition live pins are getting feeds, and the earth has good continuity to ground. live feed comes from fuse 7.
also check all the fuse sockets, they looks a bit corroded on some. check fuses are all ok too, use a multimeter if possible
Does this apply to the later type fuse box? I have no permanent feed to the long dash plug, should there be a live feed from the fuse box from d/14?
Sticker Pig
Posted
MOTY 2013
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=electrics_2%2Fcouple-of-glitches-on
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
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rubjonny said
no thats for the early fusebox, for late fusebox ive posted it up in here:
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=electrics_2%2Fcouple-of-glitches-on
Thanks I will keep looking
Sticker Pig
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we have indicators and hazzards, woo hoo !!
things I have done,
wire brush the contacts on the fusebox
replace various fuses
replace relay 21
replace the hazzard switch
plug in the ign live to the hazzards
wire in the ign live to the clock loom (no14)
and we have results !!!
no battery light indicator on the clocks or main beam notifier but so far i'm happy
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Posted
MOTY 2013
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
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VAG Documents & Downloads
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