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Your search for “"Compensator valve"” gave 70 results:
Post #665547 by jacob on 03 July 2006, 5:35 PM (in topic “Car failed MOT/now passed”)
Posted
Old Timer
Car failed MOT/now passed:
Cheers rich the guy said blockage or the compensator valve, he's going to check the complete system and do the mot but won't be going off the fail sheet. Plus he's an ex vw dealer trained runs Clover motors at north weald. very impress when talking to him knows his stuff.
cheers Jon
cheers Jon
Post #723955 by paul_c on 12 May 2007, 9:53 PM (in topic “Challenge!”)
Posted
Local Hero
Challenge!:
Carpets are different aren't they? Also steering wheel. Brakes, suspension, engine, fuel tank, fuel pump, accumulator, fuel lines, bigger brake servo, vented discs with differnt pads, rear compensator valve, engine inc all FI system, probably a lot more under the hood too!
Post #733561 by Guest on 17 June 2007, 5:53 PM (in topic “Hi got some photo's.... eventually (New MOT'd Pics!!)”)
Posted
Guest user
Hi got some photo's.... eventually (New MOT'd Pics!!):
Hi
I got it MOT'd, went through after the Brake compensator valve was replaced. Decided to have the cam belt changed as well, just to be sure.
Went for a little drive today and found a quiet spot to take a couple of photo's. The Cab is nothing too special so I decided not to post pics in the "Fav pic of your car section".
When I say "I found a quiet spot" What I really mean is it broke down 8O
All you tin tops can laugh away as its pretty funny that the first drive in 4-5 years, was me and my wife on the road, roof down, sun shining feeling cocky and the bloody thing dumps all its water!!
Anyway it turned out to be a pipe from the side of the block to the heater matrix has a small solid pipe section which coroded through, It was probably nearly gone anyway, just waiting for a few bumps on country roads and gear changes. Replaced it with a piece of copper pipe and it was sorted.
Also had a top and bottom strut brace fitted to keep things as tight as you can on a Cab. You still get the scuttle shake but at least the "turn in" is nice.
Thanks for all your help over the last year
I got it MOT'd, went through after the Brake compensator valve was replaced. Decided to have the cam belt changed as well, just to be sure.
Went for a little drive today and found a quiet spot to take a couple of photo's. The Cab is nothing too special so I decided not to post pics in the "Fav pic of your car section".
When I say "I found a quiet spot" What I really mean is it broke down 8O
All you tin tops can laugh away as its pretty funny that the first drive in 4-5 years, was me and my wife on the road, roof down, sun shining feeling cocky and the bloody thing dumps all its water!!
Anyway it turned out to be a pipe from the side of the block to the heater matrix has a small solid pipe section which coroded through, It was probably nearly gone anyway, just waiting for a few bumps on country roads and gear changes. Replaced it with a piece of copper pipe and it was sorted.
Also had a top and bottom strut brace fitted to keep things as tight as you can on a Cab. You still get the scuttle shake but at least the "turn in" is nice.
Thanks for all your help over the last year
Post #755843 by paul_c on 11 September 2007, 10:23 PM (in topic “Brakes do not bleed! I have no brakes i need them back!”)
Posted
Local Hero
Brakes do not bleed! I have no brakes i need them back!:
Nah, you need to avoid the pressure bleeder - in fact I think its part of the problem. There's probably a load compensator valve on the rears, which means that the lousy 20psi or so of the pressure bleeder doesn't really push the fluid through this that well, making it very slow and possibly not even bleeding the rears properly.
I use steady strokes on the pedal to around 70% of its travel. And, if the MC fails, I'd rather it fail in the workshop than during an emergency stop!
I use steady strokes on the pedal to around 70% of its travel. And, if the MC fails, I'd rather it fail in the workshop than during an emergency stop!
Post #755857 by chudd on 11 September 2007, 10:59 PM (in topic “Brakes do not bleed! I have no brakes i need them back!”)
Posted
Local Hero
Brakes do not bleed! I have no brakes i need them back!:
paul_c said
Nah, you need to avoid the pressure bleeder - in fact I think its part of the problem. There's probably a load compensator valve on the rears, which means that the lousy 20psi or so of the pressure bleeder doesn't really push the fluid through this that well, making it very slow and possibly not even bleeding the rears properly.
I use steady strokes on the pedal to around 70% of its travel. And, if the MC fails, I'd rather it fail in the workshop than during an emergency stop!
Quote from the VW Bible
DO NOT pump the pedal using the old push method to to bleed the brakes on your car . You will push the master seals in to the unused portion of the cylinder and may induce wear or pick up dirt and ruin the seals . Use a simple low pressure bleeder follow the instructions and save on the cost of a new master cylinder . This also now has the advantage of being a one man task .
Post #755859 by paul_c on 11 September 2007, 11:03 PM (in topic “Brakes do not bleed! I have no brakes i need them back!”)
Posted
Local Hero
Brakes do not bleed! I have no brakes i need them back!:
chudd said
paul_c said
Nah, you need to avoid the pressure bleeder - in fact I think its part of the problem. There's probably a load compensator valve on the rears, which means that the lousy 20psi or so of the pressure bleeder doesn't really push the fluid through this that well, making it very slow and possibly not even bleeding the rears properly.
I use steady strokes on the pedal to around 70% of its travel. And, if the MC fails, I'd rather it fail in the workshop than during an emergency stop!
Quote from the VW Bible
DO NOT pump the pedal using the old push method to to bleed the brakes on your car . You will push the master seals in to the unused portion of the cylinder and may induce wear or pick up dirt and ruin the seals . Use a simple low pressure bleeder follow the instructions and save on the cost of a new master cylinder . This also now has the advantage of being a one man task .
Book's wrong LOL.
Post #764556 by paul_c on 23 October 2007, 8:55 PM (in topic “Rear disc help”)
Posted
Local Hero
Rear disc help:
I was under the vague impression that rear discs are a bit of a myth. The reason being, as you brake harder, there is greater weight transfer to the front of the car, so while your front brakes end up working much harder, the rears in fact do about the same braking. This is why GTIs are fitted with a load compensator valve - to make sure the rears don't lock due to this weight transfer, as braking forces increase. I've heard lots of stories of rear discs seizing up, although this normally relates to the Mk2 calipers, not later ones. So the need for rear discs relates more to the weight of the overall car, rather than the power output.
I do see that there's benefits from simpler servicing and it takes away the need to 'manually' (even though they are supposed to be self-adjusting) adjusting the rears.
I do see that there's benefits from simpler servicing and it takes away the need to 'manually' (even though they are supposed to be self-adjusting) adjusting the rears.
Post #788974 by M7R on 29 January 2008, 8:02 AM (in topic “cr*p brakes UPDATE MONDAY”)
Posted
Old Timer
cr*p brakes UPDATE MONDAY:
the thing with the spring on the rear axel is the compensator valve, just so you know if you over fill it wont cause any harm, it will push whats not needed out of the hole in the cap.
you maybe looking at new lines if ones now gon a bit iffy
you maybe looking at new lines if ones now gon a bit iffy
Post #834627 by Steve_Matthews on 21 June 2008, 11:04 PM (in topic “lowering springs”)
Posted
Old Timer
lowering springs:
I take if you are running the Streetline kit at the moment?
I personally wouldn't advise a drop of 60mm on "standard" spec dampers, even if they are crem-de-la-crem Billies. If you are going down 60mm you ideally want lowered, uprated dampers.
At very least, you want to use cut down bump stops, otherwise you'll run out of travel and end up doing a very good impression of a speed boat.
I believe you can also buy lowered top mounts which give your spring/damper more room to operate. You could consider these with your exisitng 40mm kit as this will give you a 50mm effective drop at the front. It'll also help counter the classic nose-high stance most Mk1's seem to adopt.
If you are going to use cut down bump stops, either obtain polyurethane (powerflex/etc) items or, if you intend to cut down standard ones (as I suspect you'll have to at the rear anyway) cut down new ones, not your aged, brittle ones already on the car.
You might find at a 60mm drop that there is some scrubbing, especially on that wheel/tyre combination. I personally don't recommend rolling arches as it created an inherant water trap and they rust. If you have wheel/body contact, fire up the grinder and the MIG.
Oh, and don't bother with coil-overs unless you are going to go to the trouble and expense of getting them corner weighted. A car equipped with a properly aligned fixed height lowering kit will out handle most adjustable coil-over equipped cars as no one spends the time or money setting them up properly.
If your care has a rear brake compensator valve, remember to re-position this after your ride height has been dropped.
I personally wouldn't advise a drop of 60mm on "standard" spec dampers, even if they are crem-de-la-crem Billies. If you are going down 60mm you ideally want lowered, uprated dampers.
At very least, you want to use cut down bump stops, otherwise you'll run out of travel and end up doing a very good impression of a speed boat.
I believe you can also buy lowered top mounts which give your spring/damper more room to operate. You could consider these with your exisitng 40mm kit as this will give you a 50mm effective drop at the front. It'll also help counter the classic nose-high stance most Mk1's seem to adopt.
If you are going to use cut down bump stops, either obtain polyurethane (powerflex/etc) items or, if you intend to cut down standard ones (as I suspect you'll have to at the rear anyway) cut down new ones, not your aged, brittle ones already on the car.
You might find at a 60mm drop that there is some scrubbing, especially on that wheel/tyre combination. I personally don't recommend rolling arches as it created an inherant water trap and they rust. If you have wheel/body contact, fire up the grinder and the MIG.
Oh, and don't bother with coil-overs unless you are going to go to the trouble and expense of getting them corner weighted. A car equipped with a properly aligned fixed height lowering kit will out handle most adjustable coil-over equipped cars as no one spends the time or money setting them up properly.
If your care has a rear brake compensator valve, remember to re-position this after your ride height has been dropped.
Post #855554 by paul_c on 05 September 2008, 11:25 AM (in topic “Auto to manual”)
Posted
Local Hero
Auto to manual:
Lots of stuff!!!
This has come up before in the past, the search engine is your best friend. You'll need linkage, pedal box, clutch cable and fitting bits, all the transmission mounts (there's 3, and they're different on Mk2), throttle cable, and probably a few more bits too.
To do the engine conversion, you'd need even more, especially if you're starting from a carb engined car - ie extra wires to run the ignition and plug into the AAV/WUR/CSV/TTS etc, fuel pipes, metering head, induction pipework, fuel pump, fuel relay, wiring for it, accumulator, fuel tank, cage for pump, etc.
Also you'll need to lower & stiffen the suspension, fit anti roll bars, upgrade the brakes at the front, possibly plumb in and fit a rear compensator valve, larger rad, oil cooler.
Question is, if you wanted the performance of a 16V engine, why did you buy a 1.6 carb auto?
This has come up before in the past, the search engine is your best friend. You'll need linkage, pedal box, clutch cable and fitting bits, all the transmission mounts (there's 3, and they're different on Mk2), throttle cable, and probably a few more bits too.
To do the engine conversion, you'd need even more, especially if you're starting from a carb engined car - ie extra wires to run the ignition and plug into the AAV/WUR/CSV/TTS etc, fuel pipes, metering head, induction pipework, fuel pump, fuel relay, wiring for it, accumulator, fuel tank, cage for pump, etc.
Also you'll need to lower & stiffen the suspension, fit anti roll bars, upgrade the brakes at the front, possibly plumb in and fit a rear compensator valve, larger rad, oil cooler.
Question is, if you wanted the performance of a 16V engine, why did you buy a 1.6 carb auto?