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mk1 project - shell up custom rebuild- sheet metal work time

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mk1 project - shell up custom rebuild- sheet metal work time

true

plan is to get the floor pan ready for colour and then seal it and carry on with the rest of the car

anybody got suggestions for what to aply paint wise - i want it smooooooth - but has to last

was thinking etch prime
any filler work
primer
smooth stone chip - flat it back
high build primer + flat it back
sealer
- then colour in about 3 years when the rest of the work is done

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Good work Mike.

re the floor pan

i would go for epoxy mastic on top of some zinc rich primer - such as zinga

you will need a tough coating for the floor and some normal primers don't protect against rust

stone chip would be difficult to flat back given it comes out as a ripply finish to start with…

epoxy mastic from rustbuster is great stuff and is sprayable  - you can then just leave it black till your ready to spray colour on the car…

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ANY ADVISE?

Wow u were busy!! looking nice man!! u have any advise for a first time builder?? Here in S.A. the only advise you'll get is to buy a new car!! :banghead:

Heres mine the daay i bought her…



Mind the Dubhead in the way :mrgreen:



ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT GUYS!!! :(

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Carbs4ever said

Good work Mike.

re the floor pan

i would go for epoxy mastic on top of some zinc rich primer - such as zinga

you will need a tough coating for the floor and some normal primers don't protect against rust

stone chip would be difficult to flat back given it comes out as a ripply finish to start with…

epoxy mastic from rustbuster is great stuff and is sprayable  - you can then just leave it black till your ready to spray colour on the car…

i was hoping you'd reply

is the epoxy mastic acting as the stone chip?  i take it i could then prime and paint over the top of it as normal?

is zinc a better option than etch prime?

have used zinc primer for some of the wleded sections - doesn't seem to grab the metal as much as the etch primer

any help much apprected

i was planning to etch prime the lot - rub back any areas to fill - then fill and seal with primer  

then epoxy the lot ?

its a mine field this painting game

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The epoxy dries rock hard so as a base coat in my opinion it will be hard to beat however you need the qualities of stonechip next as it provides a cushion for the colour coat to avoid chipping.

 on each inner arch i sprayed zinga on (98% zinc) as a base coat to bare steel then two coats of epoxy (brushed thick) over the top then a light coating of stone chip to minus the brush marks and reduce chipping. On the floor pan where chipping isn't much of an issue i didn't use stonechip or zinga as the floor pan had zero rust and epoxy forms an air tight barrier - no rust can form under it

In terms of stonechip its gonna be a toss up between mirror finish flat paint on the floor and arches - like X5PEA for example or a little texture.
IMO your gonna need the texture of stonechip to absorb stone hits and avoid paint chip especially under the arches…

maybe that makes no sense - let me know if it doesn't and i will hone it down a bit

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i'm with you - thanks for taking the time out to write it all up

i think the arches could do with the stone chip as you say and the floor pan should be fine without .

i think so long as i stick to all 2k products i should limit the chance of any problems down the line.

i think the etch / zinc is a good idea under the epoxy as if it should chip there is something underneath to protect it.

cheers for the advice  - much appreciated
 8)

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I used the epoxy mastic  on the underside of my car after reading carbs thread.

Great stuff well worth the money.

I used mine onto bare steel as they recommend that it sticks best to bare steel .

Then coated the underside with dinitrol ,maximum rust protection for a daily driver .

76 ?
78 gls
83 gti 5v

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Thats how my inners were after two of mastic - a light'ish coat of stone chip some colour and laquer…

I think the stonechip gives it a nice texture - though not as coarse as factory sealer - a good in between imo

even if you get some chips - not hard to touch in again where needs be…

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Finish looks really smart. Was looking at Zinga website. Do you have to grit blast before application?

Andy

LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/

1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si

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no - just key up the surface a little if needs be… some 180 grit would do it..

sorry mike are we highjacking? :oops:

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Those zenders are going to sweet on there.

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Carbs4ever said

no - just key up the surface a little if needs be… some 180 grit would do it..

sorry mike are we highjacking? :oops:

nah don't worry hijack away - no probs with the build thread having some good discussion points on about certain areas etc etc - might help some other people out along the way
 
zenders aren't going on the mk1 - no way they would come close to fitting ( 8x15 et 0) and not special enough for the end result i have in mind

i have some plans

 :D

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little bit of work has been done

started to get most of the fab work done before the floor is blasted
floor is really solid except the two sections at the alignment bosses

chopped em out and hand formed my own repair panel

added the original swage mark back in with a hammer and dolly to keep it looking standard - took about an hour but i couldn't leave it out - would have driven me mad  8O

anyway heres some pics - onwards and upwards



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Cracking fab work there Mike 8)

Andy

LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/

1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si

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This project is awesome.

I love keeping an eye out for updates.

Would someone pls post links up for the zinga, stonechip etc etc.

You have inspired me to get my bay welded up, had it done over the weekend, pick it up 2moz then on with the grinding and filling.

happy days.

top work as always Mike, a pleasure to watch this transformation.

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thanks for all the positive comments

good luck with the grinding and filling - its going to take a while

 :banghead:

any way change of plan and the 20v engine is up for sale !

have bigger and better plans for the car and not sure the 20v was going to make the most of them

all will be revealed in good time - need to shft this engine first though  8)

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VR6 oioi  :lol: great work pal

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not a vr6 but have something special in mind

engine will allow me to do alot more of the custom machining work i wanted to do

all will be revealed in good time

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awesome work there mate,

love the custom fabbing.


where is this k33ts rear panel guide i cant find it??
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