Overheating problems, Fan not kicking in
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(In Topic #98213)
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Overheating problems, Fan not kicking in
I have an 84 1.1, which is having over heating problems. It hasn't fully overheated yet, but the temp gauge sits very high when stationary. Water vapor is also escaping from the rad cap too.
After looking at posts on here i have replaced:
Thermostat
Temp Sender
Fan Switch
Rad Cap
But still no joy. The fan used to kick in when shutting down the engine when i was running the old thermostat but with the new one it doesnt do this.
The fan seems to be operating fine when i pull the clips off the fan switch and touch them together.
Any ideas on what to do!? :dontknow:
Many thanks Dan
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Old Timer
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I replaced the temp sender that was on the reverse of the thermostat housing
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Both were unable to kick the fan in, the one i brought the other day was from euro car part.
Not sure if i should try a vw fan switch, or may just wire in my own switch
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I was told by someone that it doesn't matter which way round they are connected up ie you can have - to + and + to -, but my fan only works when they are connected up a certain way I'm guessing - to - and + to +.
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Looks like ill be making a switch tomorrow!
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Old Timer
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Local Hero
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Ive tested both switches separately by putting them in boiling water but they did not operate the fan
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A cup of boiling water probably wouldn't get it to work anyway as it will cool down too much before you get it outside, the thermostat on the cylinder head opens at 85+ degrees C so I would have thought it needs to be hotter than that or of similar heat to get switch to work, and I doubt your cup of boiling water is hot enough.
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So ive got a switch in now.
Where abouts is the correct placement on the temp gauge for an average engine temp?
My old gti was half way, but this one seems to sit a third of the way along
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Its also a little thirsty for a 1.1, i think 30 mpg is a bit high for it.
Anyway i give in, so im now going to get rapped by a local garage!
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Local Hero
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I just still have the over heating problem
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I connected the back of the fan to the battery and it kicked in fine so I suspected the rad temp switch was faulty. I replaced it with a new one from Euro Car Parts and I still had the same problem. I cleaned all the connections (especially where the earth wire comes out the back of the switch and secures to a post on the inside wing) - still the same problem.
I gave up and took it up to the local garage only for them to call half way through to say the fan was kicking in ok. They acknowledged that the temp needle on the dash did go very high but said not to worry as long as the fan was kicking in.
I will get around to changing the temp sender on the side of the engine which hopefully will not allow the needle to go so high but at least the fan has been working ever since.
I can only conclude from all of this that all connections have to be clean and secure - double check them - as I think this is what caused the problem in mine.
When I have the time I'm also going to wire in a manual override switch for the fan just for peace of mind.
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The fan should kick in when needle is about 3/4 of the way up the gauge.
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The hotter the engine runs the more efficicient it will be !
If you are really that bothered about getting it to run cold(er) all the time without having the fan on a switch and running constantly then look at getting a replacement thermostat for in the cylinder head housing that opens at a lower temperature and a temp sender for the radiator which also switches on at a lower temperature.
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Going to get a new rad, see what happens!
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