MOT Failed, Head Gasket Gone & Timing Out!!

MK1Bungle - I like the look of those water holes  

Andy

PS - where are you getting the gasket silhouettes  from ?

Do they look right then matey, is yours a 1.1 or 1.3? Maybe they are different, i'm not sure but my mate at ECP (who sent me the silouettes) has ordered me in the last one they have in stock in the country just in case it's correct lol

MK1Bungle,

Mine's a 1.1 - hence the query about the engine codes.

Andy

Have rung VW to check, even they don't have a picture of the actual gasket unlike ECP lmfao, said they need the engine code to determine which is the correct one, they'll need to order it in and then see if it's correct, lol i need the damn thing on the road by the 27th!  

Mk1Bungle said

i need the damn thing on the road by the 27th!  

MK1Bungle - No problem.

VW will probably check, get their Part No: which they won't tell you, and then discover that they no longer stock it (well it is 24 years old !).

I'll dig out my paperwork (gaskets etc) when I get home.

Andy

I think GF may indeed be a 1.3  :dontknow:

Andy

Great, thanks hun

Rache

MK1Bungle,

The GSF gasket is an 'ELRING 559.336'  this is stamped into the gasket in one corner if you want to confirm.

The packaging states many cars BUT Golf 1.3 Engine Codes AAV - ADX - HK - HW - MH.

Elring's number is 0191 491 5678, if you have the engine code make year and model they will tell you what gasket you need.

I bought a head set from Partco/Unipart - 'First Line HS 654' Unipart No: GUG 8006 54 HS - this one has the triangular water holes. But I asked for a Golf 1.1 for your 1.3 it may not be the same. If you want I can call them tomorrow about the 1.3 ?

Andy

Hello MK1Bungle,

Just 'phoned Elring (out of interest) and they say the correct Elring gasket for the 1.3 GF engine code is 559.336 - which I believe is the GSF one you have, check the number stamped on it.

So I'm a bit perplexed why the 1.1 has the triangular holes and the 1.05 and 1.3 don't - sorry if that's been a bit of a red herring.

Make sure you use new head bolts when you replace the cylinder head (the old ones are prone to stretch when being torqued up - and you don't want to snap one in the cylinder block   ) ?7.52 for a set of 10 from ECP Part No: 300 440 070.

It is possible that your overheating is due to the ignition timing being way out - so lining up those marks and the rotor arm correctly is paramount.

Keep asking.

Andy

Hi Andy, thanks for finding that out for me, i really appreciate it hun, i've asked the other half to let me know what's stamped on the gasket when he gets back to the unit at work, will let you know.

I'm very curious about this myself now, since the cylinder head looks like it should have the other gasket with all the triangles, will post a pic shortly.

Yep, got a full set of new bolts anyway, the instructions set to torque up to 40 or 60, which i thought was a hell of a different, they need to make up their mind. Initially we did it to 40 but it clearly not enough so did to 60nm, does this sound right?

MK1Bungle,

Got that Haynes yet ??

Depends on the bolts but is done with the engine cold    :-

If they're M10 (10mm) then its in stages 40 Nm - 55 Nm - 65 Nm then 1/4 turn.

If they're M11 (11mm) then it's in stages 40 Nm - 60 Nm then 1/2 turn

If you're not sure then go 40 Nm - 55 Nm - 60 Nm then 1/4  turn (which is what I'm doing now !) you can then give them another 1/4 turn after a few hundred miles.

Oh and remember the tightening sequence ;

"Ever increasing circles"

Looking from the front of the car, there are 10 head bolts in 2 rows of 5.

Number them as follows (left to right - top row - bottom row).

10 - 4 - 2 - 6 - 8
 7 - 5 - 1 - 3 - 9

Then tighten in sequence 1 - 2 - 3 etc etc

Andy

No probs there Andy, had already read up on the sequence etc, thanks anyway

As promised, this is a (crappy) pic of the cylinder head, you can just make out the shape of the holes, i'm now thinking either gasket could be used, as the gasket that was in, is the same as the one i had from GSF

Oh and yes i got that haynes, should get it in the few days  

At least you're not working out in the road…

As for Haynes, many on here don't rate them, but I think they're pretty good - I've found almost all I've needed for my 1.1. Poorest part is probably the carburettor, but then we switched to Weber 34 ICHs anyway.

Keep posting - have you found the timing notch on the crank pulley yet ?

Andy

My 1.1 is now running better than ever - and nice and coooooollllll  

and the new cylinder head bolts went in and torqued-up a dream  8)

Andy

Oh that's good news then!!

Yeah it's been brilliant been able to use his works unit, it's pretty big and they've got pretty much all the tools we need there, has been a great help, it's only 5 mins up the road from us too which is great!

I do and i don't rate them, is only helpful to a certain point, then it's guess work, but i still use them, mainly for an advisory point really

Tbh no we haven't found the crank pulley timing notch yet, don't suppose you have a pic on where it should be do you??

Mk1Bungle said

Tbh no we haven't found the crank pulley timing notch yet, don't suppose you have a pic on where it should be do you??

It's very small, but if you make sure the inner rim of the crank pulley is clean and then look/feel carefully you should find it near the pointers on the block when No: 1 piston is at the top of its stroke.

I'll see if I can do you a picture tonight.

Andy

Great, thanks Andy, we'll check this out tonite, could not see any marks on it on the outside

MK1Bungle,

Here is a picture of the timing pointers and the notch on the crank pulley.

The notch is marked with white tippex and needs to line up with the straight edge of the rightmost timing pointer for TDC - I have positioned it so you can see it for the photograph.



One other thing - look after your hoses, Top and Bottom hoses are available but the shaped heater and thermostat hoses are getting hard to find.

Andy