Engine not running right

markwon said

Strange, why did VW use a big block for the SA 1.3, while in Europe they used the small block to replace the big block 1.6  :dontknow:

I imagine its parts commonality between the two. If they foresaw a continuation of production for a while, it would have been cheaper in the long run to 'develop' a low capacity big block.

Bert said

The engine code is  GY my mate went to a wedding in capetown so i sent him to VW to buy a couple of headgaskets incase mine goes  :wink:
~Bert

Can you not use 1.5, 1.6 gaskets from normal mk1 :dontknow:

Peddersgolf said

Bert said

The engine code is  GY my mate went to a wedding in capetown so i sent him to VW to buy a couple of headgaskets incase mine goes  :wink:
~Bert

Can you not use 1.5, 1.6 gaskets from normal mk1 :dontknow:

Not if its a smaller bore?

.. and also potentially different sized oil/water channels and head bolts.

different bore and stroke  :cry:  i looked into it and decided to send ade to the dealers  8) least he got a suntan
Bert

Couple hey! one for me if needed in future lol.
I didnt think of that as regards to bore etc, are they available at stealers do you know

I will dig them out if i can find them,im shure the part number is on them  :wink:
Bert

Hi bert,
          fitted pipes so now has cold and warm air to the carb, have done teh co's, checked timing etc.
I removed spark plugs has when the car is running even whe at operating temp, it keeps fluxuating up and down.
Noticed that No 3 & 4 spark plugs are more carboned compared to 1&2.
Do you know what this could be causing it to fluxuate?
Best wishes
pete

Update.

Bert, Here are the pipes connected

Took car for a 25mile motorway run, not one blip or misfire, smooth as a babies bottom, so not electrical in my mind, the car only fluxuates when on idle going up and down between 500-950 when stopped at lights or anywhere i have stopped.
Can u clarify in your opinon that the problem could be down to the idle jet on the carb.
Also would having the carb refurbished help, as i know someone who can do it for a ?50 sum.
Your guidance would be appreciated as always fella :wink:

The hot/cold air valve needs to be piped up to a vacuum to make the flap move,there should be a air temperature sensor so when the air is cold the valve lets vacuum through  and sends the flap to the hot air position.
Check for air leaks before messing with the carb,check vacuum pipes,check servo pipe for an air leak where the rubber bit is by the manifold,make shure the servo isnt leaking and not holding vacuum,to check run car for 20 secs,turn off,pull out servo pipe and see if there is a rushing of air,if there is its ok  :wink:
Carbs last fairly well,i wouldnt recon it yet,check everything else first,if the co is set ok thats a good sign,if the carb was knackered the co would not come down enough,also check for HC's in the exhaust,ideally should be low as possible(hc is unburned fuel)
Bert

Bert said

The hot/cold air valve needs to be piped up to a vacuum to make the flap move,there should be a air temperature sensor so when the air is cold the valve lets vacuum through  and sends the flap to the hot air position.
Check for air leaks before messing with the carb,check vacuum pipes,check servo pipe for an air leak where the rubber bit is by the manifold,make shure the servo isnt leaking and not holding vacuum,to check run car for 20 secs,turn off,pull out servo pipe and see if there is a rushing of air,if there is its ok  :wink:
Carbs last fairly well,i wouldnt recon it yet,check everything else first,if the co is set ok thats a good sign,if the carb was knackered the co would not come down enough,also check for HC's in the exhaust,ideally should be low as possible(hc is unburned fuel)
Bert

Does your advice relate to the housing/flap in the air inlet i have fitted shown in pic?
There are no flaps, components or electrical connections to this circular housing of the air inlet.
Awaiting guidance

the flap is inside the housing old pal,the little pipe sticking out of the round thing is for a vacuum pipe to be pushed on to  :wink:
Bert

I got this part from a mk2, is this the problem as this part does not a have any flaps etc only a thin piece of wire going vertical.
I take it i defo need one from a mk1 then or am i wrong.
Plus the car run sweet on the motorway until idleing.
very confusing, help

Mk2 same bert,i bet some turd has broke the flap off,ive seen them broke off before and all that is left is the wire inside the housing Try another one  :cry:
Bert

Gone to my mk2 in garage and also had a look at my friends mk2, both ours have webers and both air intakes dont have a flap.
I will call my friend to see if he can bring his mk1 1.5 down and i'll have a ganders at his
pete

the flap is meant to open and close from vacuum but it aint gonna cos u aint got a vacuum hose running from your carb.
all four of my citis have had carb freeze in colder months and mi mates too.
get a uk air housing, the bit at the end (round bit) has a flap in it to direct cold or hot air from each manifold, undo it using clips (will be stuck on open without vacuum) drill a hole thru flap and housing and close it by pushing a bolt thru it and holding it with a nut. carb freeze is common and happens on a lot of vw carb engines but citis are worse. on the uk airbox run a metal hose (one of them springy ones) back near exhaust manifold. they all do it mate, does your head in, i have swapped carb and carb gasket and job-lot, worse thing is that better u got your engine set up (timing, mixture)worse it is :? found out that putting it on start of december til end of feb then swap over. its always worse when you are in top gear then come to a roundabout or junction (motorway) and have to drop clutch….
u dont wanna buy mine do ya?
good luck,
paul

So the original post by Peddersgolf - was this down to not having the warm air intake?

As mine is doing the exact same thing in the mornings - never any other time of the day and it happens exactly when i come of the motor way up the slip road and she goes hectic! pulling the choke out fully only raises the revs to around 1500rpm and flooring the accelerator does not seem to do much either - just spluttering and smelling of petrol.  If i pull over wait a minute and start her up again it's all fine and idles pefect!

Can someone confirm if this is carb icing?

Thanks

HI bud,
Your up in scotland area aren't you? is weather pretty cold if so yes citi will cause a few problems.
Dont forget when south africans made these, they did not expect them to end up in the uk.
First you need to provide hot air to the carb, heres a pic of how i did mine, Thank you for BERT :wink:  
Original setup
Now modded for hot air.
 

You will notice in the pic i have a different section on the air filter, i took this off a mk2 golf, 1.6 or 1.8 are same fella, or if can get one, get the full air filter box from a 1.5 mk1 golf, and get some new piping, cheap as chips, this will cure your problem.
Also another one which i found out when it *CENSORED* down was water was coming in to the left of the grill i.e spark plug 1 which was causing dampness around that area, as one mine the radiator had no deflector cards attached it.
Remove grill and put a piece of thick card or like wise and block the left side up completely, air still gets in from other areas to keep engine cool.
When i start mine up, i dont set off straight away, i let her run for about 2 minutes, plus dont drive hard, be gentle, once you drive for approx 5 minutes she'll be fine.

Also your getting a petrol smell could be your choking it, or i would as i always do before i start using any car, is remove the carb and check the carb flange for tears and rips, if you can not see anything on the outside of the carb flange , simply look on the inner rim and if you see a bubble, doesn't matter how big, if one there then there then it is split i.e. air being sucked in.
I take it all timing is spot on and you have also checked for splits in (1) servo pipe and (2) vacuum pipes
pete

Top stuff, thank you, yes car is spot on timing and c0

It only smells of petrol when i get the carb icing and i am flooring it or pulling the choke out to compensate - so i guess it's doing it's job

How did you overcome the hot flap as there is no vac pipes on ours! Did you screw it down?

Mine did not have an hotflap, it is not needed only if using orignal pierburg.
Remove it bud
The small pipe that would lead from the end of filter box to the top of filter box i have not connected has it couldn't, so blocked of the small connection with tape show in pic.
Dont worry fella, all your doing is allowing free flow of warm air from the rear of engine to get to the carb.
just position the warm air pipe where i have and secure it with cable tie.
Pete :wink:

P.s ignore 1st pic with the arrow, that was for another thread, just to show you the air filter box previously