part-way through renovation of underside

m6m62 said

LOL - Are they the standard 185/60/14's?

I dropped to 185/50/14's - Profile is considerably smaller, though the width is obviously the same - No arch clearance issues though (on ET33 rims…)

How did you find doing the tank and axle with the car on the floor?

Phataz1 said

Is yours on coilies too lowmk1?  How low is yours and what wheels you runnin out of interest?

Damn wish I could afford some coilies… :cry:


 :mrgreen:

yea dunno how low just took em down till it low enough to move without scrapping…emm just :mrgreen:

wheels…8's fronts 9's rear  :wink:

AL_Mk1 said

m6m62 said

LOL - Are they the standard 185/60/14's?

I dropped to 185/50/14's - Profile is considerably smaller, though the width is obviously the same - No arch clearance issues though (on ET33 rims…)

How did you find doing the tank and axle with the car on the floor?

Those wheels have 185/60/R14 tyres on them, I am planning to go back to 13" alloys (9 spokes). My current set has the standard 175/70/R13 which is the same rolling diameter as the 185/60/14s (well, 3mm smaller). So I might try to obtain 65 or 60 series, on the 13" size. In fact, I'm seeking a bit of guidance on what tyres are available and what to use!

The tank and axle were really easy to do since they were removed. Removal and replacement aren't that tricky, its just time consuming to do. There are a couple of awkward things during reconnection, like brake lines to the axle.

One thing which did catch me out, I hadn't realised the extent of corrosion on the chassis legs, had I known how much time I'd be spending underneath the car, I'd have raised it much higher when I took the axle off; or arranged for it to be turned sideways, or something.

Paul, if you go to www.mytyres.co.uk  you can play around with the search facility swapping tyre widths, profiles, etc, seeing what results are returned (if any). A good guide as to what is available in what widths, etc, and how they compare cost wise.
Cheers,
Mark

This is so refreshing, to see what has been done/is being done to the underside. Far too many times we are treated to pics of  glistening bare metal, professional,bells and whistles,twin overhead foxtail resprays when the real work is done underneath. How many folks have parted with hard earned money to find that the jewel they bought needs a fortune spending underneath when M.O.T. time comes. Thanks for the pics,Blacky>

I finished the work on the brakes on the front right, and I also took the chance to swap the wheel to a spare 13" 9 spoke with 175/70R13 which I happened to have. Clearance is much better and I was able to wind the suspension another 40mm or so down, I'm guessing but I reckon its dropped around 110mm now. I'll probably wind it up a bit, because I only have around 10mm of suspension travel left. And I've no idea if camber, castor and toe in can be adjusted to within limits, that low.

Anyway, here is a pic of the front end dropped around 110mm:

8)  :mrgreen:

Really good read Paul and very helpfull to me. am thinking of changing my petrol tank esp as GFS now do new pattern types not sure on quality though. any tips when changing tanks would be appreciated as im a novis mech cheers

Paul,
You've put in  lot of good work since I last looked.
I too have dropped my petrol tank and rear axle. I am going to replace both rear chassis legs (when I get to the back of the car).
I buffed my rear axle down, gave it a couple of coats of red oxide, then painted it with black Hammerite under body paint.  It was a bad idea as the paint doesn't dry properly and remains tacky. I have done the anti roll bar also. Every time I rub something against them the paint comes off.  I will probably have to wire brush it off again and get them powder coated.

You don't want to go too low. My last car was lowered and sat on 17" wheels with low profile 40 series tyres. You felt every bump in the road, it was like hitting a kerb with a standard car. Ran the corners like it was on rails though :wink:

andy77 said

Really good read Paul and very helpfull to me. am thinking of changing my petrol tank esp as GFS now do new pattern types not sure on quality though. any tips when changing tanks would be appreciated as im a novis mech cheers

1. Get the axle out of the way. Easiest way is to simply cut through the brake flexible lines rather than fiddling around trying to disconnect and reuse them. Also take care on the nuts. There is a handy technique, of initially turning it ever so slightly the wrong way to break the seal. Then turn the right way (undo), spray on more penetrating fluid, and gradually wind it back, then turn the wrong way, then a little more the right way, etc.

2. Take the exhuast off too. Makes sense, not that hard either.

3. Disconnect everything and drain the tank. My tank was a tight fit in the ridges on the car, so it stayed there once the straps were undone. During refitting, I just lay underneath the car and wiggled it on and off, as required. Sheet of cardboard on the ground, on refitting, to avoid scratches. Its not that heavy, don't bother with a jack or anything.

cheers paul, did you replace any of the fuel lines/hoses when refitting just to be safe ?

Macca said

I buffed my rear axle down, gave it a couple of coats of red oxide, then painted it with black Hammerite under body paint.  It was a bad idea as the paint doesn't dry properly and remains tacky. I have done the anti roll bar also. Every time I rub something against them the paint comes off.  I will probably have to wire brush it off again and get them powder coated.

I am surprised at the amount of rubbish paint there is 'out there' which you can buy. I bought the proper chassis black paint from Frost and ended up respraying stuff because it just doesn't look as good as stonechip (which gives a more matt effect). Also, traditional underseal is bitumen based and remains tacky for life, it cannot be oversprayed. Stonechip works for me, although if you can afford the hassle of taking your axle to a place to have it blasted and powder coated, all the better. Don't forget all the little brackets for the ARB, etc and also make sure the tabs for brake lines stay on the axle during the blasting.

Macca said

You don't want to go too low. My last car was lowered and sat on 17" wheels with low profile 40 series tyres. You felt every bump in the road, it was like hitting a kerb with a standard car. Ran the corners like it was on rails though :wink:

I just wound it down for a bit of fun. It can just about drive like that, although the toe-in has gone potty and I'm afraid to turn the steering wheel too much in case I contact the arch. I've already done that once and the plastic arch is now distorted slightly.

andy77 said

cheers paul, did you replace any of the fuel lines/hoses when refitting just to be safe ?

Nah, the fuel lines were apparently replaced not so long ago and seemed to be in reasonable condition. I replaced all the hose clips, though.

I've decided that the best way to fight the rust is buffit back with the grinder, weld it if necessary, gring it down again then give it lashings of good old red oxide.

my cars had a new tank but when i look't at it i saw the hose going from fuel tank to fuel pump was bent with a kink maybe why my fuel pumps been making lots of funny noses? anyone can help me :?  

went to get new hose no one dose them anymore vw or gsf help please dont want pump to go

Can't remember what size it is.  What about some of these hydraulic companies, would they not have rubber hosing of different sizes :dontknow:

joelgti said

my cars had a new tank but when i look't at it i saw the hose going from fuel tank to fuel pump was bent with a kink maybe why my fuel pumps been making lots of funny noses? anyone can help me :?  

went to get new hose no one dose them anymore vw or gsf help please dont want pump to go

I can't remember the exact size but I know its between 1/2" and 3/4" because thats the size of hose clip I fitted to replace the original one. Its a small pipe, maybe 4" or less in length, and it does a 90? bend from the pump to the tank.

Are you able to loosen the 2 hose clips, twist the pipe so it bends the opposite way from the kink formed, and tighten them up again?

Another milestone reached today………. I have now finished all the welding, at least all I think it needs, you never know what the MoT tester might find. Here is the pic of the completed final area, the left inner wing:



Now all I've got to do is wire brush the rest of the inner wing, paint it in stonechip, do the same to the reverse side of the outer wing, change the strut and brake components, wire brush the underside and sills, spray these in stonechip, wire brush and paint the floor and other areas inside, refurbish the wheels, fit new tyres, fit the 22mm master cylinder conversion, tighten up some bits & bobs on the rear end, swap the horn to the correct twin tone one, fit the interior, fit a decent stereo and pass the MoT. All hopefully before Gaydon, which is fast approaching!

Nice one Paul!  Bet your over the moon now the hard parts over!  All you got to do now is enjoy driving it 8)

Did you say you've never driven it before? :dontknow:

I just repainted my sill today, well pleased with it 8)

Will it be ready for the next meet?

Phataz1 said

Nice one Paul!  Bet your over the moon now the hard parts over!  All you got to do now is enjoy driving it 8)

Did you say you've never driven it before? :dontknow:

I just repainted my sill today, well pleased with it 8)

Will it be ready for the next meet?

I've driven it about 1500 miles, in the year I've had it. Its unlikely to be ready for the next meet, my best estimate is 3-4 weeks away. A lot depends on when I can get it booked into the MoT and if it passes first time (can't see why not, though).