cv joint help needed *******update********

Early-1800 said

The bolts are U/S and you need new ones so hammer in a larger bit to remove them.

I agree with that, if you've rounded a allen/torx or spline drive bolt goto the next size up and hammer it in - you can worry about getting it out later in the comfort of your shed etc in a vice. Then if it still rounds goto get the dremmel or grinder with a cutting disc and cut the thing off :evil:

I find that caliper bolts with the allen key heads always do this too

Dunno if you've managed to get them off yet. If you havent, there is a set of tools, cant remember what they are called but they have a pointy end and left hand thread and you screw them into the aperture you've left when you rounded out the star hole. As they get further in they 'bite' into the remasinder of the bolt and turn it undoing it. I got a set of these in various sizes about 3 or 4 years ago for exactly the same job, worked a treat and cost about 15 quid! I bought them from a local hardware shop.
wish i could remember the name   ops: I know they are made by Stanley though……

I had fun when I did the gearbox in ratty. It's always the last bolt that is corroded and rounds…….

I brought out the secret weapon! All those easily offended close your eyes now or prepare to wince….



Take that evil bolt KAPOW! :twisted:

I never though in a million years it would work…. but it did!

Lukic said

Dunno if you've managed to get them off yet. If you havent, there is a set of tools, cant remember what they are called but they have a pointy end and left hand thread and you screw them into the aperture you've left when you rounded out the star hole. As they get further in they 'bite' into the remasinder of the bolt and turn it undoing it. I got a set of these in various sizes about 3 or 4 years ago for exactly the same job, worked a treat and cost about 15 quid! I bought them from a local hardware shop.
wish i could remember the name   ops: I know they are made by Stanley though……

Are they stud extractors? :dontknow:

kins said

Lukic said

Dunno if you've managed to get them off yet. If you havent, there is a set of tools, cant remember what they are called but they have a pointy end and left hand thread and you screw them into the aperture you've left when you rounded out the star hole. As they get further in they 'bite' into the remasinder of the bolt and turn it undoing it. I got a set of these in various sizes about 3 or 4 years ago for exactly the same job, worked a treat and cost about 15 quid! I bought them from a local hardware shop.
wish i could remember the name   ops: I know they are made by Stanley though……

Are they stud extractors? :dontknow:

I know the tool you mean, the problem is that bolts are typically made out of a harder than average type of steel and the tool will destroy itself before it does its useful job (or maybe I've just bought rubbish tools??)

Trust me, the 'grind a slot into the head of the bolt' technique is the quickest one, from bitter experience…

Here are some more ideas…

File 2 opposed flats onto the bolt head. This allows you to bodge a spanner on it.

Get a cheap socket set from somewhere like Wilkinsons…..find a sockets that only just fit over the bolt then bray it with the "T'hammer of doom"! Chase this up with an impact driver.

Failing that use the "Mole grips of destiny".  

There is more than one way to skin a cat! :wink:

Oh use Plus Gas too that stuff is magic! 8)

cheers for all the ideas lads 8)

My final choice was one of these;



made light work of the bolts  :twisted:  :twisted:  :twisted:  :twisted:

couple more questions now tho.

I've got all the bolts out the inner side and i've took the bolt  and the washer out of outer end but it doesnt budge? if there any other bolts i need to take off? i've got my replacement shaft to go on but cant get the old 1 off!!!!

also lost alot of oil taking the inner cv apart, is that from the gearbox?

By grinding off the heads presumably the shanks of the bolts are still in place? :dontknow:  If so you have problems.  8O You needed to remove the bolts so the drive shaft can swing down and be pulled out of the hub.

There should be no oil getting out of the box. There are oil seals around the drive flange from the g/box and one in the centre that you can see when you get the shaft off. You might get the odd drip but not lots. Are you sure its oil and not grease from they CV joint???

I think now you will have to undo the lower ball joint and swing out the suspension strut to create enough room to remove the shaft.

:?  all the bolts are removed from the cvj, i just took the head off then twisted them out.

and yes it deffinatly is oil, and i lost alot of it!  :evil:  :evil:

right chaps, i've managed to get the new drive shaft on!!!!!!! :mrgreen:
it was smaller diameter than the old one but it seems to fit ok?

i think now i need to top up the gearbox oil, it has lost oil from the gearbox as you can put it into any gear without even pressing the clutch in??? it this big problems? im hoping i can top it up and this will cure thatproblem if i do top it up will it start to leak? im thinking this has what cauzed my problems in the first place as i remember there being a bit of oil around the inner cv when i broke down…….im really hoping i can start driving again soon!!!!

please help!!!

lowmk1 said

right chaps, i've managed to get the new drive shaft on!!!!!!! :mrgreen:
it was smaller diameter than the old one but it seems to fit ok?

i think now i need to top up the gearbox oil, it has lost oil from the gearbox as you can put it into any gear without even pressing the clutch in??? it this big problems? im hoping i can top it up and this will cure thatproblem if i do top it up will it start to leak? im thinking this has what cauzed my problems in the first place as i remember there being a bit of oil around the inner cv when i broke down…….im really hoping i can start driving again soon!!!!

please help!!!

I'm worried for a couple of reasons-
if there is oil leaking for the 'box you need to stop it by fitting a new seal(s) on it
and the other is the shaft diameter, you say it was smaller???? it doesn't seem right to me,  does it lock onto the diff and hub ok?
and theres no way you should get any gears without using the clutch :?

Low if you have mk2 box you might have mk2 driveshafts. Some of the later cabbies have fatter drive shafts too. Chances are you have a mk2 box fitted and youve put a mk1 driveshft on. If you have only changed one you will get torque steer.

Im also worried for you about loss of oil… did you take the flange off the gearbox?

And you can put it in gear with no clutch… interesting. Is the box noisey? :dontknow:

when i mean put it into any gear, i have not driven the car yet, not driven it for about 2 months… but it seems very sloppy and will just go into the gear…very loose

cant belive this, just when i thought i had dne it….more problems!!!!!

so i'll add an extra ?30 to my list as i've bought a wrong driveshaft and how can you tell if its a mk2 box?

kins what part it the flange???

everything was fine when it was runing no noise or anything

feel like smashing it up

As far as I know, the Mk2 (and late cabby) box had 100mm diameter PCD for the CV joint bolts, while the Mk1 box had 90mm. So, it could be a false alarm because I'm 95% sure you'd have simply not been able to bolt on a Mk1 driveshaft onto a Mk2 box. If you lost a lot of oil, it would be worth topping up the gearbox oil, then keeping a close eye on it. Yes, its a seal gone but if its only leaking slightly and you don't allow the gearbox to run out/go low on oil, then you can buy yourself some time.

The CV joint might suffer slightly (grease being contaminated with gearbox oil), but you can clean it out and repack it with grease, when you eventually swap the box or sort the seals on your existing one.

Swapping the gearbox is approx 3x the length of time as swapping a driveshaft, if that gives you any idea of the duration/complexity of the job. An engine crane is handy too, to support the engine while the box comes off.

cheers guys! how do i top it up?

i found out that you can top it up by eithor the 17mm allen bolt(but looks like its rounded so not gonna try or speedo cable? but not to make sure it drops off inside…

most likly will tyr the speedo cable route…need a good 'how to' on how not to break the gearbox by topping up in the wrong place answer first tho :mrgreen:    :roll:

cheers

paul_c said

Swapping the gearbox is approx 3x the length of time as swapping a driveshaft, if that gives you any idea of the duration/complexity of the job. An engine crane is handy too, to support the engine while the box comes off.

well if it takes me 2+ months to swap a driveshaft….errrr i'll give it a miss!

well topped up the gearbox oil and i took it for a spin round the block…..

big grins my way!!!! :mrgreen:  :mrgreen:  :mrgreen:  :mrgreen:

yea kins your right mate, booted it and it torque steers very badly! hard to keep it in a straight line, oh well dont need the gym anymore