Mk1 golf doesn't run right......

Hi all I'm new here.

I own a MK1 Golf Lhasa Green Campaign, But since I have been repairing the front end due to a slight prange it is not running very well.

I drove it up to the sprayers on Sat - but was really struggling to get up even the slightest of hills. It was spitting and spluttering all the time.

Also, this could be associated with the poor running, is that when I turn the dash lights on I lose all the dashboard (rev counter, clock etc). I have been reading up on the problems and it may be that the rocker cover earth is not making a constant earthing point.

Could this be the cause of the no power issue.

Another thing I notive that the hose that feeds the air filter box is missing what would this cause the car to do??

cheers all

Phil G

This sort of issue could be cause by any number of issues.

Check and clean the earth connection on the right of the fuse box.
Check earth strap on rocker cover.

Test fuel pump flow, injector delivery and ignition.

Check timing and do a compression test.

If you've got the kit do the fuel system pressure tests

Compression tests! Blimey Rich I know these cars are subject to sods law but that's looking on the pessimistic side!

when I turn the dash lights

You mean when you turn on the headlights?

Problems sound unnconnected to me, dashboard problem probably something like the voltage stabiliser or a short circuit, maybe take the whole pod out and clean it. Voltage stabilisers are still available from VW I think.

Running problem will be

Electrics (HT leads, plugs, rotor arm, coil, dizzy cap, points if you have em post 1980)

or

Fuel related.

Electrics are the easiest to address and cheapest, fuel problems mean proper pressure gauges and all the parts cost big money.

Tackle the electrics first, just change the things I listed unless they are all new although that's no guarantee, all fairly straightforward like for like swaps. If you have points it's a bit more involved.

Lack of hose means your cars sucking in warm air rather nice dense cold air, mine fell off once, didn't make much difference. Least of your prioritys right now.

If no luck with the above probably have to start on Riches tests.

Peter.

Cheers all

Yea sorry I meant headlights, but I think it is due to the earth connection on the rocker cover - as I have recently stripped it and sprayed it black.

The poor running - has happened ever since revamping the rocker cover and cleaning the wires in the engine bay.

Could someone send me a couple of pics of there engine bay - around the water temp, oil temp switches and the distributer cap for the vacuum unit.

That would be a great help to me - just to make sure I have replace all the wires in the right place.

email is pghent@pghent.plus.com

Cheers for your responses - car should be back with me on Sat, so got to get some hard work in for inters….

Don't know if these show what you require (courtesy of Walt)

Whats the fireing order. I have mine set to 1243 so 12 going across the head and 34by the vacuum is this right??

FIL6 said

Whats the fireing order. I have mine set to 1243 so 12 going across the head and 34by the vacuum is this right??

Do you mean the firing order of the engine? If so, it should be 1,3,4,2. - If it's wrong, it would explain the poor running you mention 8O

If you're talking about the routing of the HT leads through the rest of the engine parts, the pics above are fine.

I mean the HT leads on to the distributer

Note that the cylinders are numbered 1-4, with no.1 being at the cam-belt side, and no.4 being at the gearbox side.

Also note that the firing order for these engines is 1-3-4-2.

To check your firing order, you need to first of all determine which HT lead socket on the distributor cap is for the no.1 HT lead.

Lift the distributor cap and note where there is a small stamped line on the top lip of the distributor body. Observe how the distributor cap only goes on one way, because of the cut-out on the distributor body, and the lug on the cap that fits it.

When the cap is on correctly, the no.1 HT socket on the cap is over the stamped mark on the distributor, so there's your no.1 socket defined.

The rotor arm goes around clockwise in the big-block VW engines, which means that the next socket around (clockwise) is for the no.3 lead, and the next one around is for the no.4 lead, and lastly no.2

Sorted it out now 2 and 3 were wrong way round.

Runs like a dream now.

Clutch is slipping a bit, so either needs adjusting or replacing.

Cheers all for your help, The MK1 is storming the streets again.

FIL6 said

Clutch is slipping a bit, so either needs adjusting or replacing.

Diagnosis: Slacken your clutch cable until there is a trace of play (looseness) in the clutch action - this is technically too loose, but you'll be sure that the cable isn't binding the clutch, making it slip.

Then test it by flooring it in fourth gear from about 30 mph - if it still slips when doing this, then you need a new clutch.

Why: If it bites very high on the pedal travel, and is fierce (very on/off, not smooth), then it's worn out. PS: be careful not to get stranded before you replace it - clutches go from "slipping a bit" to "stranded" faster than you think.

If it bites lower down the pedal travel, and is not fierce, then you may have an oil leak from the engine or gearbox…

this sounds like I have an oil leak. Is that really bad??

Normal driving is fine pulls away fine all gears connect really smoothly.

Its just when I pull away really hard it slips.

Is it hard to change a clutch??

Thing is the oil leak is likely to be internal. Theres a little o ring which stops all the oil coming out of the gearbox onto your clutch.

By the time you get to it you may aswell change the clutch as it's probably knackered from it's oil bath anyway.

The o ring should be changed when you change the clutch, it's not included in the GSF kit which costs around ?50.

Peter.

Cheers pete

Do you know how long it takes to change the clutch??

Oh yeah you also need a special tool to centre the clutch.

I got someone else to do mine, not something you do on the street!

Peter.

You can centre the clutch with some vernier calipers or similar

Yea thats alright - my father in law is a mechanic so he will be able to do it.

Just worried as to whether it will be ok to get me to inters on  sunday..  :?

400 mile round trip…

FIL6 said

Just worried as to whether it will be ok to get me to inters on  sunday..  :?

400 mile round trip…

If you're really sure that it is an oil leak, and not just wear, you should be able to get to Inters, if it's mostly m-way and dual-carraigeway.

If it's wear, you may get stranded, so don't take this car if you aren't sure.

If you're sure that it's oil, drive gently (no harsh accelerating or overtaking), to avoid prolonged slipping, which will ruin your flywheel (overheating, causing glazing and/or warping). Unless your engine or gearbox is really chucking out the oil, you should be ok, however make sure that you're a member of a recovery service like AA or RAC, and you can forget about the quarter mile .

How long has it been slipping, and has it got significantly worse since you first noticed it?

Cheers - Its been off the road for six months - but just before that it had a new clutch cable fitted.

Also come to think of it I had a new gearbox fitted about three years ago and a new clutch fitted two years ago, can they go that quickly.

I am thinking it may be down to the cable needs adjusting.

I will let the father in law drive it tonite to see what he thinks.

It seems to slip under pressure but then grips again.

As you can tell by now I am no mechanic. :wink:

we've all got to learn somewhere  

I would try what Type17 has suggested and adjust the cable as a first step, I'm no expert with mk1's (yet  :wink: ) but it's always best to check the cheapest and easiest things first