Steering Rack Boot
Posted
Old Timer
Steering Rack Boot
The part number for the boot will be ok, but the one for the heatshield won't be unless you have C clip type exhaust.
Take a look at the diagram further up this post… an '83 GTI usually has the setup at the top of the diagram, the heatshield is in 2 parts and I think its no longer available at VAG but you need to check. There are other nuts, bolts washers and spacers specific to this type of setup for bolting it to the down pipe also, which I think are available.
Cheers,
Ross
Take a look at the diagram further up this post… an '83 GTI usually has the setup at the top of the diagram, the heatshield is in 2 parts and I think its no longer available at VAG but you need to check. There are other nuts, bolts washers and spacers specific to this type of setup for bolting it to the down pipe also, which I think are available.
Cheers,
Ross
Posted
Local Hero
Posted
Settling In
Sorry to bump this from last year but I found it via the search function.
Just a quick question on the subject - Can the U/J be greased because I asked VW about it when ordering a heatshield and they said its a sealed unit and so will need replacing if its drying up! You cannot just apply grease to it. They then quoted me ?135.18 (part no:172 419 951B) + vat for the U/J!
Can anyone clarify this as it could save me ?150!
Thanks in advance!
Just a quick question on the subject - Can the U/J be greased because I asked VW about it when ordering a heatshield and they said its a sealed unit and so will need replacing if its drying up! You cannot just apply grease to it. They then quoted me ?135.18 (part no:172 419 951B) + vat for the U/J!
Can anyone clarify this as it could save me ?150!
Thanks in advance!
Posted
Local Hero
Posted
Settling In
crazyquiff said
No reason you can't slap a bit of grease on it but it probably won't penetrate to the bearings. I've got good used ones at a fraction of the VW new price.
Cheers
Rich
Oh ok cool! Ill drop you a PM.
Posted
Settled In
crazyquiff said
I have used boots, and steering column shafts if anyone needs them
Would you happen to have a used boot for my 1.8 auto ?
Posted
Old Timer
Nearly 15 years later????, probably better to contact him directly
Posted
Local Hero
Power Steering, or Manual?
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Local Hero
http://www.golfmk1.co.uk/Items.php?cat=SLAREA&group=ENGINEBAY
https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/mk1-golf-steering-rack-knuckle-boot-172419523-jetta-scirocco-caddy-19141-p.asp
https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/mk1-golf-steering-rack-knuckle-boot-172419523-jetta-scirocco-caddy-19141-p.asp
On the drive
T25 Diesel…sameoldblueshiŁ (currently under resto)
Rocco gt2….1990 secret 2…(currently under resto)
Mk4 99 1.8t indigo blue Gti with 43k miles
Caster 93 clipper JH Green cabby
Snowy 91 GTi White cabby( sat waiting for inspiration)
Myvalver 89 GTi Grey mk2 16v
Yuppy Flu 91 GTi Flash Red Sportline
Golf mk1 owner's club on Spotify
Mk1 golf owners club playlist: Golf mk1 owner's club playlist - YouTube
T25 Diesel…sameoldblueshiŁ (currently under resto)
Rocco gt2….1990 secret 2…(currently under resto)
Mk4 99 1.8t indigo blue Gti with 43k miles
Caster 93 clipper JH Green cabby
Snowy 91 GTi White cabby( sat waiting for inspiration)
Myvalver 89 GTi Grey mk2 16v
Yuppy Flu 91 GTi Flash Red Sportline
Golf mk1 owner's club on Spotify
Mk1 golf owners club playlist: Golf mk1 owner's club playlist - YouTube
Posted
Settled In
Briano1234 said
Power Steering, or Manual?
Sorry Briano haven't been on for some time, its an auto my friend
Posted
Local Hero
now Power steering or manual?
Boots are cheap, and Fairly easy to replace. Make a mark in White paint on the rod behind the outer tie-rod nut I have also used teflon tape and that worked well…..
Loosen the Lock nut and remove the outer tie-rod off the spindle, and remove it and the nut from the shaft.
Loosen the Rack mount and only loosen it a wee bit so you can get a little movement. Spray the mounting nuts with pb-blaster, kroil or your favorite penetrating oil….Brush the nuts and exposed thread with a wire brush, and if you can use an impact that is the ticket, as if yours have never been loosed since new, they can torque shear if you use a Socket and Breaker bar…..Just go easy.
Once you get it loose a wee bit you can force the old one off by clipping the strap or loosening it then wiggle it off.
You may have a equalization line on a power steering that allows the expanding boot to suck air from the collapsing boot on the other side as when you turn one side goes out and the other goes in….This equalization line prevents the boots from passing air and giving you a flatulence noise on turns….
You can use the new clips or Wire-Ties, Wire-ties work well, and I have used them.
Use the clips if you want the true oem look. Retighten the rack mounts replace the nut on the inner shaft alignment or tracking should still be correct…. I also use Never-Seize on the rod threads in the outer tie-rod and nut,,,,makes it easier to change them out later.
Replace the outer tie-rod end and place the nut on the markand screw the outer to it, then lock it down….
Boots are cheap, and Fairly easy to replace. Make a mark in White paint on the rod behind the outer tie-rod nut I have also used teflon tape and that worked well…..
Loosen the Lock nut and remove the outer tie-rod off the spindle, and remove it and the nut from the shaft.
Loosen the Rack mount and only loosen it a wee bit so you can get a little movement. Spray the mounting nuts with pb-blaster, kroil or your favorite penetrating oil….Brush the nuts and exposed thread with a wire brush, and if you can use an impact that is the ticket, as if yours have never been loosed since new, they can torque shear if you use a Socket and Breaker bar…..Just go easy.
Once you get it loose a wee bit you can force the old one off by clipping the strap or loosening it then wiggle it off.
You may have a equalization line on a power steering that allows the expanding boot to suck air from the collapsing boot on the other side as when you turn one side goes out and the other goes in….This equalization line prevents the boots from passing air and giving you a flatulence noise on turns….
You can use the new clips or Wire-Ties, Wire-ties work well, and I have used them.
Use the clips if you want the true oem look. Retighten the rack mounts replace the nut on the inner shaft alignment or tracking should still be correct…. I also use Never-Seize on the rod threads in the outer tie-rod and nut,,,,makes it easier to change them out later.
Replace the outer tie-rod end and place the nut on the markand screw the outer to it, then lock it down….
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settled In
Thanks Briano1234 wealth of knowledge as alwaysBriano1234 said
now Power steering or manual?
Boots are cheap, and Fairly easy to replace. Make a mark in White paint on the rod behind the outer tie-rod nut I have also used teflon tape and that worked well…..
Loosen the Lock nut and remove the outer tie-rod off the spindle, and remove it and the nut from the shaft.
Loosen the Rack mount and only loosen it a wee bit so you can get a little movement. Spray the mounting nuts with pb-blaster, kroil or your favorite penetrating oil….Brush the nuts and exposed thread with a wire brush, and if you can use an impact that is the ticket, as if yours have never been loosed since new, they can torque shear if you use a Socket and Breaker bar…..Just go easy.
Once you get it loose a wee bit you can force the old one off by clipping the strap or loosening it then wiggle it off.
You may have a equalization line on a power steering that allows the expanding boot to suck air from the collapsing boot on the other side as when you turn one side goes out and the other goes in….This equalization line prevents the boots from passing air and giving you a flatulence noise on turns….
You can use the new clips or Wire-Ties, Wire-ties work well, and I have used them.
Use the clips if you want the true oem look. Retighten the rack mounts replace the nut on the inner shaft alignment or tracking should still be correct…. I also use Never-Seize on the rod threads in the outer tie-rod and nut,,,,makes it easier to change them out later.
Replace the outer tie-rod end and place the nut on the markand screw the outer to it, then lock it down….
Posted
MOTY 2013
I think the manual rack boots will fit over the rod end without having to remove it, give that a go before you split the end off
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