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Crank, no start. Sometimes comes to life then dies.

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I just really want to have these two driving together :(

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Here's where we are

New intake tube
New vacuum hoses
New PCV boots and PCV
New Blue sensor (tests fine)
Tested the AFM - it’s good.
It has spark
static Timing is in
Fuses 17 and 5 are fine.
Fuel pumps pass the 300ml flow rate tests both at the units and before the pressure regulator
Unplugging the regulator does nothing
Spark plugs are good and gapped appropriately
Did I mention the timing is in?
New gas cap
Spark is healthy from the coil
Spark is healthy at the plugs.
Fuel filter is due for replacing - fuel coming out isn't the cleanest.
Replaced the blue coolant sensor

What next?

Really getting to the point of looking into going to a carb setup on this thing. 

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Timing is in?  did you manually set the timing marks, then insure the diz is at about the 12:30-1:00 position, and the rotor is in the middle of the stamping hash on the frame of the diz?  Then did you loosen the diz and rotate it so that a DVOM connected between the Green/White wire on the Hall sender plug goes from 0-11V+to ground as you rotate the Diz, and did you hear the fuel pumps prime?  

Static Ignition Timing on VW A1 and A2 DigiFant Engines.

Did you Validate that the idle by-pass screw is tight or does it easily rotate/turn in your fingers, if you said yes, then the o-ring is bad on the idle bypass.

Did the residual pressure tests work?  
Was there fuel dribble from the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator to the throttlebody?

You do have the plug wires 1-3-4-2 from 0 time?

Specifics.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Briano1234 said

Timing is in?  did you manually set the timing marks, then insure the diz is at about the 12:30-1:00 position, and the rotor is in the middle of the stamping hash on the frame of the diz?  Then did you loosen the diz and rotate it so that a DVOM connected between the Green/White wire on the Hall sender plug goes from 0-11V+to ground as you rotate the Diz, and did you hear the fuel pumps prime?  

Static Ignition Timing on VW A1 and A2 DigiFant Engines.

Did you Validate that the idle by-pass screw is tight or does it easily rotate/turn in your fingers, if you said yes, then the o-ring is bad on the idle bypass.

Did the residual pressure tests work?  
Was there fuel dribble from the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator to the throttlebody?

You do have the plug wires 1-3-4-2 from 0 time?

Specifics.




Static is set. Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Idle bypass o ring has been replaced with the same size everyone keeps recommending both on old posts and Facebook and YouTube - however can still be turned by hand. Either I'm doing something wrong or the 3 o rings I've bought were manufactured wrong. Can you give me an exact ring that I need? If it's a "take it to the hardware store" thing, I have none that sell loose o rings nor any that let you open them to fit - I need an exact fit. 

I can't check residual as the car //won't run// and the Bentley tests state to run the car, then come back. Have a procedure for one that doesn't run? Please, I'm all ears. 

also, no clue what a DVOM is or that test, but it's not in the checklist for no start. Page number or further clarification, please. 

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Further: no fuel dribble from regulator during any other tests that have been performed nor does it leak as it runs (when it does so poorly) 

Plug wires are ordered correctly. 

Distributor is more 11:30 than it is 12. But it's lined up with the notch that it should be lined up with. 

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DVOM Digital Volt Ohm Meter, it measures VOLTS ac/dc, Ohms, and Current (amperage).

You need to set the the time as.

Crank at 0 Tdc on the finger of the transmission not the diamond slash.
The Dimple on the back side of the Cam gear is equal to the plane of the valve cover tin, the (0) on the front should be under the arrow.  

The Diz rotor should be in the middle of the hash that is stamped on the Diz frame.

Unplug the Hall sender plug carefully loosen the rubber boot of the sender. then return the connector plug into the connector.

Placing the DVOM in the DC volts 20V setting.
Place the Red lead in the hole with the Green/White wire. The Black lead goes to frame or battery negative.

Using a wrench 13mm loosen the keeper or bolt that holds the clamp on the diz body.

Key on, in the run position.
What is the voltage on the DVOM?  should be 10 or 11V
Slowly Turn the Diz back CCW.until it goes to 0.  Now bring it forward or CW as soon as you see the 10 or 11V Stop.  As it is getting close you will hear the Fuel Pumps Run.  

The Car is now in time. You have proved that the fuel pumps receive power when the voltage goes high.
You have validated your Hall sender, the ICM module.

Button it up, as in remove the hall sender plug, then replace the boot cover, and reconnect.  Replace the cap over the diz.  If all is working then the Car should start and run.  

You car is in time and will run if all is well.

Read the thread Static Ignition Timing on VW A1 and A2 DigiFant Engines.

It shows all and it is well written.
Once you get it running, we can use the same static timing method to set it to 6BTDC.




What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Static timing is set and in 

Fuel pumps work and pass flow rates

Fuel pressure is 30 psi, lost about 10 psi after 10-15 min 

Compression is:

135
132
132
100

No outside of maximum variance. 

But I've still made no progress. Car still doesn't run and nothing is leading my into any other direction but dumping the project off on someone else 

So far every single thing I've been told to Check or told to look into has been fine and I'm extremely lost. This doesn't make any sense to me 

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Fuel pressure is low.  Should be 36-40 psi.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Wasn't the FPR 

Won't even start on starting fluid

I'm a few dollars away from throwing in the towel on this. Nothing anyone has suggested here or Facebook has led to even a minute improvement. It doesn't even start poorly anymore. 

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Sorry I can't be any help as most of us are in the UK and it's only the very last few Mk1 Golf cabriolets (1991/92) which have digifant fuel injection, most of use have Bosch K-jet fuel injection.

Have a search on the Mk2 Golf forums as most of them digifant fuel injection.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
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