Fuel issue on 1983 1.8 GTi
Posted
Newbie
2 things mate there should be a good earth from the gearbox to the chassis which will make a big difference on the starter speed if not there ( always worth unbolting earths and giving them a good clean with a wire brush or some sand paper)
Also you say you have checked the timing but have you checked the dizzy is timed with a timing light to the crank? If this is out it will also slow the engine cycle down
Definitely don't give up mate you will get there 👍
Also you say you have checked the timing but have you checked the dizzy is timed with a timing light to the crank? If this is out it will also slow the engine cycle down
Definitely don't give up mate you will get there 👍
Posted
Settled In
I got the car spinning a lot better now.
Took off earth straps to body and gearbox bracket and battery terminals and gave everything a good going over with sandpaper and new nuts etc. Much better 👍
I'm at a loss to be honest - big thanks to Nicci21paul for telephone assistance.
Basically I'll have to get a mobile mechanic in now - there's no attempt at firing at all. I haven't the time to spend on it now and not exactly earning browny points with wife spending hours with head under bonnet with no results. I wanted it on road for June.
I've got a spark (checked with plugs out and arking good), I've got fuel into chambers (no plugs in) when you lift meter plate and crank it, fuel spray comes out of plug sockets.
When it's all back together - nothing ! 🤷🏼♂️ Not even misfire. Tried "Start ya Bas…d" in inlet manifold - no difference.
Plugs are bone dry after attempt at firing - so fuel can't be getting in when cranking with it put together - end of ? So it's going back to original post that there a fuel delivery issue I guess.
I've tried several dizzi caps, rotar arms & leads, another coil, another spark module thing, I've gone back to timing umpteen times. Fuel pump running ok, fuel pressure at 5th injector and fuel filter.
So that's where I'm at presently .😞
Took off earth straps to body and gearbox bracket and battery terminals and gave everything a good going over with sandpaper and new nuts etc. Much better 👍
I'm at a loss to be honest - big thanks to Nicci21paul for telephone assistance.
Basically I'll have to get a mobile mechanic in now - there's no attempt at firing at all. I haven't the time to spend on it now and not exactly earning browny points with wife spending hours with head under bonnet with no results. I wanted it on road for June.
I've got a spark (checked with plugs out and arking good), I've got fuel into chambers (no plugs in) when you lift meter plate and crank it, fuel spray comes out of plug sockets.
When it's all back together - nothing ! 🤷🏼♂️ Not even misfire. Tried "Start ya Bas…d" in inlet manifold - no difference.
Plugs are bone dry after attempt at firing - so fuel can't be getting in when cranking with it put together - end of ? So it's going back to original post that there a fuel delivery issue I guess.
I've tried several dizzi caps, rotar arms & leads, another coil, another spark module thing, I've gone back to timing umpteen times. Fuel pump running ok, fuel pressure at 5th injector and fuel filter.
So that's where I'm at presently .😞
MK1 Golf GTi Campaign:Alpine White, Vauxhall Omega MV6, Alpina B10 3.3 Touring, Dolomite Sprint, MG ZT V6, Volvo T5 R estate
Posted
Old Timer
Have you done a compression test? I had a rebuilt engine but they didn't check clearance on tappets so had no compression.
Posted
Newbie
How does the meter plate feel? It should be super easy to move with no feel of resistance, on mine when it wouldn't start when together but I could manually get fuel from the injectors from lifting the plate it turned out after being sat without running for a year the plate had just got slightly sticky and in honesty I couldn't even tell by feel but I borrowed the metering head of my mo2 and it fired straight up. It took a bit of gt85 and some lifting up and down of the plate to get it going fine again. I appreciate you may not have a spare metering head luring around but if you have some wd40 /gt85 ect then give it a good spray and a good wiggle around followed by some brake cleaner to clean any debris out then give it another go
Posted
Settled In
Well, I did a compression test before I took engine out of car prior to starting renovation around 6 years ago - I jotted readings down and all showed an acceptable 10 bar or so. - engine hadn't turned since that time till me recently trying to start it.
Now I'm getting 4 bar on each cylinder so therein lies the problem. Off with its head then but I'll take it and get it sorted as not in position both time & knowledge to sort it.
There's a few other jobs they can do for me to finish resto off whilst they have access to ramp.
Now I'm getting 4 bar on each cylinder so therein lies the problem. Off with its head then but I'll take it and get it sorted as not in position both time & knowledge to sort it.
There's a few other jobs they can do for me to finish resto off whilst they have access to ramp.
MK1 Golf GTi Campaign:Alpine White, Vauxhall Omega MV6, Alpina B10 3.3 Touring, Dolomite Sprint, MG ZT V6, Volvo T5 R estate
Posted
Local Hero
even with low compression you'd think it would still attempt to fire even in an half hearted way with fuel and sparks?
1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet
The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet
The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.
Posted
Old Timer
I wouldn't rush to take the head off. Very odd to be even across cylinders. If the valve timing was out it could cause this. Are you sure the cam is turning? Would turn over much quicker than normal
Posted
Settled In
Yes - took cam cover off and camshaft turns over.
I'll check clearances whilst it's off and see what they read as
I'll check clearances whilst it's off and see what they read as
MK1 Golf GTi Campaign:Alpine White, Vauxhall Omega MV6, Alpina B10 3.3 Touring, Dolomite Sprint, MG ZT V6, Volvo T5 R estate
Posted
Settled In
One of my gut feelings (amongst other things volunteered to me) is that perhaps one ailment that may not be helping - could be stuck in all 4 cylinder piston rings with with engine been stood > 5 years.
I did squirt a generous spot of WD40 down the bores some time ago - AND (whether I'm imagining it) their is a whiff of fuel on the dipstick.
Whether these can be freed off without taking head off - any solutions ? Guess oil down the bores may help.
I did squirt a generous spot of WD40 down the bores some time ago - AND (whether I'm imagining it) their is a whiff of fuel on the dipstick.
Whether these can be freed off without taking head off - any solutions ? Guess oil down the bores may help.
MK1 Golf GTi Campaign:Alpine White, Vauxhall Omega MV6, Alpina B10 3.3 Touring, Dolomite Sprint, MG ZT V6, Volvo T5 R estate
Posted
Settled In
IT STARTED!!
Put oil in bores and redid compression test - this pushed it up to over 100psi. Left it a while and tried starting it again - still no joy.
Popped a couple more cc of oil in bores, refitted plugs and went straight to ignition key where it started almost 1st crank of the starter 🙏☺️. It ran very well although a little high revving - all that needs setting up yet.
So defo 4 stuck in piston rings (IMHO) causing lack of compression, which isn't surprising as engine been lift for almost 5.5 years without activity.
Question is what's best to leave in bores to soak rather than invasive surgery. Someone mentioned auto gearbox fluid, plus brake cleaner has been mentioned.
I've only had some WD40 in there and clean engine oil - nothing else yet as want to be sure.
I did think about a length of wood dowling through the plug holes and tap the tops of the pistons with my rubber mallet to shock them 🤷🏼♂️.
Anyhow a giant leap forward !!
Put oil in bores and redid compression test - this pushed it up to over 100psi. Left it a while and tried starting it again - still no joy.
Popped a couple more cc of oil in bores, refitted plugs and went straight to ignition key where it started almost 1st crank of the starter 🙏☺️. It ran very well although a little high revving - all that needs setting up yet.
So defo 4 stuck in piston rings (IMHO) causing lack of compression, which isn't surprising as engine been lift for almost 5.5 years without activity.
Question is what's best to leave in bores to soak rather than invasive surgery. Someone mentioned auto gearbox fluid, plus brake cleaner has been mentioned.
I've only had some WD40 in there and clean engine oil - nothing else yet as want to be sure.
I did think about a length of wood dowling through the plug holes and tap the tops of the pistons with my rubber mallet to shock them 🤷🏼♂️.
Anyhow a giant leap forward !!
MK1 Golf GTi Campaign:Alpine White, Vauxhall Omega MV6, Alpina B10 3.3 Touring, Dolomite Sprint, MG ZT V6, Volvo T5 R estate
Posted
Regional Host NE
sticking at it pays dividends
Do not know a lot but willing to help if possible
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
Posted
Settled In
I'd use ATF down the bores, but as it's been running now it's worth doing another compression test, the heat cycle and natural lubrication of the running engine may have free'd the rings off. It's also worth noting you should have the throttle wide open for the test to get an accurate pressure.
When you have it running again check for vacuum leaks, spray WD40 around the inlet /air ancillaries and see if the engine speed changes, this can be a cause of high idle
When you have it running again check for vacuum leaks, spray WD40 around the inlet /air ancillaries and see if the engine speed changes, this can be a cause of high idle
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