RAC Homestart unable to start Golf MK1 GTI 8V DX - overhauled engine & components

Howdy folks,

I'm at the end of my tether, trying to solve why my MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Tintop won't start?

The car finally came back on the road & was MOT'd in November of last year after a blown head gasket, the car started everyday at the first turn of the ignition key.

I had renewed the starter motor,distributor,alternator, x 4 new bosch injectors, & the metering head. When I replaced the head I gave the car an oil service & changed the dizzy cap, rotor arm, spark plugs and beru leads.

I took the car off the road during March Covid lockdown and declared it SORN, I tried restarting the car in July drove 2 miles to the petrol station and filled up £10.00 of fuel. The car misfired on start up, drove round the corner and stalled. Called the RAC - whilst waiting 10 minutes later - I tried restarting the car & it started. I immediately drove home & noticed a misfire whilst running and nearly stalled before getting up my driveway.

The following day I tried to start the car and it wouldn't run, I kept turning the key I could hear the fuel pump buzz and prime, the starter motor was turning, I removed one injector and tried relay 17/18 upside down - turned the key before cranking with fuel pump running and could see fuel coming out in a conical pattern from the new injectors.

I called out the RAC Homestart who did lots of tests and confirmed fuel is coming through, and also confirmed I had a bright spark coming from the spark plugs. He sprayed Cold Start directly into the inlet manifold and it still wouldn't start.
I confirmed the timing and spun the engine round to TDC and confirmed the rotor arm was pointing correctly.
He couldn't get it started and blamed the fault on Ignition amplifier module. I replaced the item a week ago and tried starting her again and she still failed to start. I could smell petrol on the spark plugs and kept draining the battery until it died.

I have called out the RAC again and he went through all the same motions to detect and still couldn't get her started.
I had two new fuel pump relays which I was changing between and relay 17/18 upside down trick.

When I took out relay 17/18 and re-inserted the correct fuel pump relay I noticed a spark come out of the fusebox from the thinnest pin on the relay - I think it say number 1

The car still refuses to start, I have just recovered from testicular cancer and have a little 8 year old son Reuben with cerebal palsy. I'm desperate to to get the car back & running as the MOT runs out in November. And my wifes going nuts with me using her car daily.

Any ideas what the fault could be?? Is the spark from fusebox - mean a problem with the fusebox or the wiring?? I've tried one new relay from GSF and one new relay from VW Heritage. With the upside down relay trick the RAC chap could fuel spray from the injectors before the key was cranked. Without the lifting the metering head plate open.

Many thanks

Muller    

Was it spaying the fuel with just the ignition on(not cranking)?

Hi Steve,

Yes the fuel was spraying with just the ignition on(but not cranking)

The fuel should not spray until the disc in the airflow meter is lifted by air being Pulled into the engine. It sounds like your metering head is faulty. It sounds like the engine is flooding(washing the cylinders). Try pulling the fuel pump relay, put a bit of oil in each cylinder and see if it start of easy start. If it starts then you will have to look at you metering head.

Thanks will give it a go tomorrow.

I did think it was a bit strange that fuel flowed sprayed without the airflow meter plate being lifted. I just thought this happens when you put in the relay upside down so the fuel pump ran constant.

Need to grab a can of easy start - will try halfords tomorrow.

So am I correct in thinking that fuel shouldn't flow through the injectors - until the metering plate becomes lifted?

I was trying to set & tune the injector spray pattern to a conical shape pattern by running relay 17/18 upside down and putting the key and turning it half way without cranking the engine. Thought I could do it my own to get the spray pattern to run right.

If its producing a good spark, its not the ignition control module.

Need to check it sprays fuel when ignition on and starter churning. Also the 5th injector should squirt for a period of time when cold.

You say the RAC used easy start and it still doesn't start…..so if its got fuel and spark, and doesn't start, then its timing or compression….

….but it sounds like you can't be sure of the fuel and spark situation, you need to be 100% sure here. You can spray easy start to be sure of the fuel, and clip on spark plug testers for about £4 each (some people buy the set of 4 and then they know/can see the spark signal is going to all 4 plugs).

Another thing to consider is , if it it has been spraying fuel constantly then your oil may need changing. Check your oil level, see if it high up the stick.

Just seen your edit. I'm more of a carb guy, there maybe someone who knows a bit more about the airflow meter.  From my understanding when the engine is not cranking or running there should be no fuel from the injectors.

As has already been said it sounds like the metering head is at fault and it could be the control plunger is sticking.

Any updates? Did you get it running?

Hi Steve,

No sadly, still not got her running.

I realised when the upside down relay 17 was running, fuel was squirting out of the injectors with the airflow meter plate closed. I turned the allen key backwards until the point where no fuel was coming out & the injectors were closed. I lifted the airflow plate & could see a conical fuel spray.

I left the car overnight on a battery charger, had 16.4 volts from the new bosch battery. I tried to restart again and it fired for a split second then cut out. I've kept retrying and adjust the dizzy slightly to get it to catch and stay running. The battery goes flat with all the attempts. I have a job interview on Tuesday morning and i'm desperate to get the car running.

Any chance you can pop over & help. I'm trying to remember if you were the chap that helped last year?

Much appreciated

Muller  

know the feeling mate had similar issues
but hopefully sorted touch wood six flat
batteries one starter motor bladdered
keep trying it will come good

Hi,

Yep no that feeling, burnt out a new starter motor with all the attempts and replaced it with another new one.

Replaced the bosch battery recently - luckily exchanged free of charge within it's 3 year warranty.

I've just replaced the TCI unit aswell. Ohh and a brand new alternator.

I swear I had a spark coming from the plugs & the previous RAC chaps both confirmed previously that there was a good spark.

A few minutes ago I just removed one of the leads and used a spare spark plug and rested it on a metal surface. I cannot see any spark coming out??

I've spent a small fortune in the last 12 months and the cars only ran for 3-4 months, before she died again.

does it even try to start or just nothing

Starts for a split second - but doesn't stay running for even a minute.

07739608140 mobile number

read the last part on maybe one or
two out of three

on Your Mk1 Golfs & Projects

Hi Paul,

I changed the fusebox the other day for a spare one I had. I tried starting her again but she still failed to start.

i'm guessing the cars running over rich to stop it from starting??  I turned the fuel mixture anti clockwise to the point it wasn't dribbling any fuel out of the injectors - and they seemed closed.

When I lifted the airflow fuel pressure plate - the injectors appeared to spray a conical pattern.  Do I keep turning the mixture further back??

I have three fuel injector relays that I have tried.
An original VW relay,
a GSF relay
and one recently purchased from VW Heritage.

Is there anyway of checking if a relay is faulty? I know the GSF one does not prime and buzz the fuel pump. 

See Cabby-info.com there is a Electrical section that describes the innards of the Fuel pressure relay.  The designs are different and most don't work if the insides aren't right.  Externally they look the same.

http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/Relays.pdf . at the bottom of the page.