Rewire gremlins

front and rears are separate electrically, jetta/cabrio/poverty spec dont have rear wash/wipe which has no effect on the front

have a good look at the wiper stalk wiring as well as terminals etc, could be the stalk itself is worn or dirty inside

rubjonny said

front and rears are separate electrically, jetta/cabrio/poverty spec dont have rear wash/wipe which has no effect on the front

have a good look at the wiper stalk wiring as well as terminals etc, could be the stalk itself is worn or dirty inside

I've been a bit distracted! Thanks for the help so far

Cleaned the terminals inside the 'box' where the loom attaches - left hand side, it was a bit gummed up in there. Anyway, front wash/wipe works on first pull now.

Wiper speed select still dead as a dodo. Is there any way to dismantle the wiper stalk? To get at the other, internal / wiper select contacts easily?

I've stuck a new 19 relay on, the wash/wipe still works, and now cancells out… Albeit wipers stop in random locations

Perhaps still have a wiring fault for an earth, as fuel pump isn't priming. Will have a trace session this evening.. for that, although that should just be the one earth of the black plug?

Cheers

if you click the stalk down, does relay 19 click every now and again?

stalks can be split down, just take extra care when doing this not to loose any bits. can explode everywhere so do it inside a box or something so you catch all the strings if this does happen

for the rear loom there will be 1 or 2 brown wires coming out the tubing, the thick brown with brown or black spade housing (fuel pump) goes to the 4 way white spade block. the smaller brown can go to the claw (level sender)

rubjonny said

if you click the stalk down, does relay 19 click every now and again?

stalks can be split down, just take extra care when doing this not to loose any bits. can explode everywhere so do it inside a box or something so you catch all the strings if this does happen

for the rear loom there will be 1 or 2 brown wires coming out the tubing, the thick brown with brown or black spade housing (fuel pump) goes to the 4 way white spade block. the smaller brown can go to the claw (level sender)

Sorry John, impromptu holiday .. back to reality now.

Replacement stalk fixed the wipers, split down the 'box' of connectors, it helped some but assume the slide contacts on the inner part need some attention or are rather worn!

Will be 'on' the fuel pump bits after a bit of soldering etc on the other bits of loom.

One question though, assume not, but, does the fuel pump circuit etc require the full engine harness plugging in?

In my mind it should try prime regardless once ignition is on. All the wiring looks ok, to my eye

Cheers

for the fuel pump relay it needs a rev counter signal to trigger, some relay will prime the pump on ignition on. if you want to test fuel pump and wiring though swap a 17/18 or 100 relay into slot 2 then fuel pumps should run with ignition on

rubjonny said

for the fuel pump relay it needs a rev counter signal to trigger, some relay will prime the pump on ignition on. if you want to test fuel pump and wiring though swap a 17/18 or 100 relay into slot 2 then fuel pumps should run with ignition on

Dredging this one back up!

Finished the rewiring, fixing, gauge install etc.. swapped the 17 relay in, pump kicks in with ignition on

Does this mean all is ok?

Car turns over freely. No fuel in it yet mind … Would you expect the pump to only be heard/ on once the engine fires?

Also for curiosity, oil pressure .. should the gauge show anything when cranking?

Cheers
Adam.

with a 17/18/100 relay the fuel pump will stick on all the time with ignition, so is only for testing purposes.

once the engine is wired up and running you switch to a kjet relay which will trigger off the rev counter signal and cut fuel if you crash

oil pressure should jump up while cranking, eventually enough to switch off the oil pressure warning light on the dash. if the engien hasn't been run for a long time the oil may have drained out of it, and oil pump lost prime.

worst case you can pull the distributor out and spin the oil pump up with a drill or something

rubjonny said

with a 17/18/100 relay the fuel pump will stick on all the time with ignition, so is only for testing purposes.

once the engine is wired up and running you switch to a kjet relay which will trigger off the rev counter signal and cut fuel if you crash

oil pressure should jump up while cranking, eventually enough to switch off the oil pressure warning light on the dash. if the engien hasn't been run for a long time the oil may have drained out of it, and oil pump lost prime.

worst case you can pull the distributor out and spin the oil pump up with a drill or something

Thanks John,

Had an afternoon on it today. I had a few problems, I'd not connected the earth up to the ignition coil properly!

Re; my problem with the fuel pump, I had the wrong age of connector for the hall sensor. I had a push fit style, where as it needed a clip on style - assume dizzy is newer variation or had a replacement sensor, fortunately I've ended up with a lot of connectors and wires

Result with the new connector seated, manually tuning the dizzy with ign on, fuel pump prime and king lead spark with rotation.

So with all that and a lot of cranking for first real oil prime, dash oil pressure reached for the light, gauge also showing pressure.

Lots of fuel, lots of sparks but no bang in the cylinders. Now to look at timing, must be 180 off to not garner any real splutters or attempts at life. Smells how I remember it though, memories eh!

Thanks for all the help, over the years I think not just this thread. If I can send you over some beer tokens let me know

Cheers
Adam.


Edit to add; after all the testing, dizzy being pulled etc it was 180 out. Reset, 2nd crank it started! Just idle adjusting needed now as it dies straight away!

lovely stuff