Nearly in tears

Hiya mark1 yes its a pierburg e2 .
I wasent sure if it was a fuel line or a brake line just took a picture of it as it looked heavily corroded when the ups delivery comes today ive been advised to refuse it when they have it back they will send me a non cat version which is apparently  £20 cheaper ?? Do you have and links to a full system in stainless mate

Ps why would the reading be so low ??

Just a quick one guys what engine oil are you all using .....

VW oil.
AVS Car Parts

VW filter
Genuine 056115561G Oil Filter | AVS Car Parts

I use this oil. Use the discount code to get the best deal, they do change alot…..
https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-parts/engine-parts/engine-parts1/engine-oils/?521776011&1&cc5_245

This MANN filter.
https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Golf+Cabriolet_1.8_1989/p/car-parts/regular-service/car-service-parts/oil-filter/?501770059&1&df2e88f773d5c865f404b9dd795cf6fb0b433883&000231


Don't forget a new sump plug washer.
https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Golf+Cabriolet_1.8_1989/p/car-parts/engine-parts1/engine-parts/sump-pans-and-sump-plug/?333771291&1&47c8751ced189bff5450784e05f1acd1b6276fd2&000567

Thanks mate much appreciated..

Interesting readings on the CO2.

If it's low then it's either a really clean burn hence your engine is really , really good or there's too much air on the mixture so very little fuel is being used in the burn.
This means it could be running lean. If it lean then it'll also be running hotter than it should do.

This can lead to scoring of the chambers as the pistons heat up too much and expand rubbing the rings against the side walls.

If it's really lean then there may also be running problems and staling.

Might be worth seeing if someone can tune it for you. It'll need tuning after the new manifold is on anyway as you're effectively allowing it to breathe easier and you'll need a bit more fuel to compensate.

Ian

Hi ian thanks for that .it doesn't overheat at all .and actually i thought it was running rich ? Thats why ibtook it for the gas test as its using a fair amount of fuel …could just be my driving lol .ive ran a bottle of cataclean through it when i first got it and its supposed to be excellent at removing any issues in the fuel system..hopefully shes just a good little runner .for an automatic the kickdown is brilliant. Il have it looked at again when the new manifold is fitted should be next week now

This has been rattling around inside my head over this lovely weekend. If ive no heat wrap now and its ok why do i need it on stainless .once cast is hot is stays hot for ages .where as i would have thought stainless would dissipate the heat quite well .and also ive currently not got a flexible exhaust joint on my car with a steel exhaust and theres no cracking or banging so why would i need one on with a stainless manifold surely stainless is able to handle the rigours better than normal steel ?? Its been on my mind guys

No heat shield you will FRY your Starter, your CV boots, all the grease will drip out of the right CV inner, and you can toast your steering rack.

The Flexure is to prevent the torque of the engine, from cracking the header pipes.

Ok briano i respect your experience ..but what i cant understand is why does it not fry everything now .why the sudden heat increase from stainless cant get my head around it ??

Originally the single pipe got hot, but it also cleared everything.

The new Headers pipes are 4 times the surface area of the old and they run closer to the starters heat shield, closer to the CV, and the steering rack.

You can make heat shields out of sheet aluminum to dissipate the heat. Or you can wrap them with the heat shielding tape.  

Or not.

If you haven't installed the heat soak relay on your starter (you do have an Automatic), then I would strongly urge you to do it now.

It is all up to you and what you want to spend now, or spend later.  As my Grandfather used to say… Es geht mir nicht, aber du.

Ok mate ive got the heat wrap 10m titanium hopefully that will be enough im going to speak to the fitter about heatshields etc .i dont understand about the heat soak relay and im not sure what the german is but thanks

German was my grandfathers saying "Matters not to me".

The heat soak relay was due to the issue with after driving the Automatic cars for extended periods as in Hours at a time (the US is really really big).  You stop for Gas and you got to start the car and it doesn't click, spin or start….. But if you waited about an hour, it would start.

If you look for the Starter Solenoid Wire that goes over the transmission (red/white) you will find a yellow jumper block, Car in Neutral or Park, key in the run position, Jumper from 12V+ to that yellow jumper and your car will start. incase you get stranded….in the future.

http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/InstallingHot-startRelay.pdf



 

Ok briano thanks il look into it Regards dean

Well my stainless manifold arrived today thought it was 4 branches down but its 4 to 2 bit difficult to wrap as it was connected but ive done it …being fitted Thursday

You should of started the wrapping at the header to the manifold connection, then only taken it down to where it clears the steering rack.

I would buy some more exhaust wrap and do the head end as well as that will help keep the heat down in the engine bay, leave what you have done so far as that’s ok.
Might as well do it right now as once on the car it will be near impossible to wrap.   

Hi guys i made the decision just to get it done as the mechanic is so busy .so its gone in as it is .with it being my daily driver time is a premium .just rang the garage it already had an existing broken stud before he started which was at the time so hes pulled of the inlet manifold to get to it .the old manifold is off ..hallelujah and hes got out and replaced the broken stud .just waiting for an inlet manifold gasket from vw heritage which is coming tomorrow forgot to order one .so hopefully by close of play tomorrow i should be motoring again 😀😀😀😉

Don't forget to wrap the UJ rubber boot if you can, this can be done after the manifold is fitted, you will see how close the manifold is to the steering UJ rubber boot….

I've used a mat like this (you can buy them in screwfix etc……) Then used a couple of the stainless steel ties from the exhaust wrap to hold it in place.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heat-Resistant-Mat-Soldering-Brazing-Plumbers-Woven-Glass-Fabric-300mm-x-250mm/192329893370?epid=4006939515&hash=item2cc7c145fa:g:GdoAAOSwevdZ9JHI
 

Wìll do thanks mark1 cant wait to get my little cabby back going to go full stainless i think after having the manifold done what are you guys running with brand etc