Mk1 g60 wiring guide ?
Posted
Old Timer
I'll bear that in mind if the relay packs up., I'll always fix something the cheapest way possible 😂
I'll adjust (with spade terminals) and wrap the wiring properly once it's working
Thanks again for your help 👍
I'll adjust (with spade terminals) and wrap the wiring properly once it's working
Thanks again for your help 👍
Posted
Old Timer
Still having issues with the fuel rail wiring.
I have altered the wiring as mentioned above and I'm still stumped
The brown/yellow from the ecu to the fuel rail is putting out +12v with ignition on and cranking, not a pulsed negative.
I even tried my spare ecu and it's still the same.
Also the large N terminal on the fuse box is only putting out +12v for a brief moment while cranking (regardless of how long I'm cranking for).
Something is amiss here and i can't figure this out . Any ideas?
I have altered the wiring as mentioned above and I'm still stumped
The brown/yellow from the ecu to the fuel rail is putting out +12v with ignition on and cranking, not a pulsed negative.
I even tried my spare ecu and it's still the same.
Also the large N terminal on the fuse box is only putting out +12v for a brief moment while cranking (regardless of how long I'm cranking for).
Something is amiss here and i can't figure this out . Any ideas?
Posted
MOTY 2013
N is only live when the fuel relay has been triggered, so if you haven't sorted out the D/13 wire then for now put a 17, 18 or 100 relay in slot 2 which will bring the pump on with ignition
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Posted
Old Timer
When N didn't work I tried connecting the red wire to the fuel rail to something near the fuse box that puts out 12v on both cranking and ignition without any success.
That's when I found the brown/yellow putting out positive 12v (testing between that cable and the battery negative)
Something isn't right,
That's when I found the brown/yellow putting out positive 12v (testing between that cable and the battery negative)
Something isn't right,
Posted
MOTY 2013
ok i think you need to go back over the wiring again, ecu pinout:
1 - red/green - cranking live - spade on c/18, or tapped to starter red/black
2 - purple - lambda probe pin 4
3 - blue/yellow - fuel relay trigger - D/13
4 - white - knock sensor pin 4
5 - blue - inlet air temp/co pot pin 1
6 - brown/white - sensor common earth (tapped to various sensor brown/white wires)
7 - yellow - knock sensor pin 2 & 3 (earth and shield)
8 - red/black - distributor pin 3
9 - blue/white - inlet air temp/co pot pin 2
10 - brown/green - ecu coolant temp sensor pin 1
11 - red/blue - idle switch
12 - brown/yellow - fuel rail plug pin 2
13 - brown - earth to battery
14 - black/yellow - ecu relay power & ISV - to relay above fusebox
15 - blue/black - WOT switch
18 - green/white - distributor pin 2
19 - brown/white - earth to head
22 - white - ISV pin 3
24 - green/yellow - rev counter - ignore
25 - green - coil trigger - coil negative
1 - red/green - cranking live - spade on c/18, or tapped to starter red/black
2 - purple - lambda probe pin 4
3 - blue/yellow - fuel relay trigger - D/13
4 - white - knock sensor pin 4
5 - blue - inlet air temp/co pot pin 1
6 - brown/white - sensor common earth (tapped to various sensor brown/white wires)
7 - yellow - knock sensor pin 2 & 3 (earth and shield)
8 - red/black - distributor pin 3
9 - blue/white - inlet air temp/co pot pin 2
10 - brown/green - ecu coolant temp sensor pin 1
11 - red/blue - idle switch
12 - brown/yellow - fuel rail plug pin 2
13 - brown - earth to battery
14 - black/yellow - ecu relay power & ISV - to relay above fusebox
15 - blue/black - WOT switch
18 - green/white - distributor pin 2
19 - brown/white - earth to head
22 - white - ISV pin 3
24 - green/yellow - rev counter - ignore
25 - green - coil trigger - coil negative
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Posted
Old Timer
Yep I'll go through it again to make sure that I've not made some stupid error.
There are a couple of different colour wires in my loom from above but it was running this engine and loom in the donor car (golf mk2 country, chrome edition of all things).
I do have another loom that I believe is corrado g60 so I'll compare that against your list above.
I'll do a pin list of what I have in the car when I get chance and post it up to compare to yours.
It's got to be something trivial. .
I'll keep you posted, cheers, Karl
There are a couple of different colour wires in my loom from above but it was running this engine and loom in the donor car (golf mk2 country, chrome edition of all things).
I do have another loom that I believe is corrado g60 so I'll compare that against your list above.
I'll do a pin list of what I have in the car when I get chance and post it up to compare to yours.
It's got to be something trivial. .
I'll keep you posted, cheers, Karl
Posted
MOTY 2013
yeah dont worry too much about the wire colours, the list was made from a US spec corrado bentley diagram. a proper golf g60 will be a bit different, for a start there wont be a rev counter wire from the ecu, that comes straight off the coil same as a normal mk1/2
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Posted
Old Timer
Right, here's my ecu pin out, as mentioned, some slight differences .
1. Red/green have tapped to starter red/black.
2. Purple.
3 red/yellow (not connected as the red to the fuel rail is in the large 'N' terminal on fuse box ).
4 white.
5.blue.
6. Brown/white.
7.brown/screen.
8. Red/black.
9 blue/white.
10. Brown/green.
11. Red/blue.
12. Brown/yellow.
13. Brown.
14. Black/yellow to fuse box spade terminal marked 'G'
15. Blue/black.
16. -
17. -
18. Green/white.
19. Brown/black.
20. -
21. -
22 white
23. Black/white.
24. -
25. Green.
I have the red/white for the isv in with the red yellow spare fuel pump spade terminal above the fuse box.
All connected like this I'm getting +12v on the brown/yellow cable for the fuel rail which is what's throwing me
I've also changed the fuel pump relay number 62 to a number 18 as suggested to get the N terminal live on ignition to make it easier to test
1. Red/green have tapped to starter red/black.
2. Purple.
3 red/yellow (not connected as the red to the fuel rail is in the large 'N' terminal on fuse box ).
4 white.
5.blue.
6. Brown/white.
7.brown/screen.
8. Red/black.
9 blue/white.
10. Brown/green.
11. Red/blue.
12. Brown/yellow.
13. Brown.
14. Black/yellow to fuse box spade terminal marked 'G'
15. Blue/black.
16. -
17. -
18. Green/white.
19. Brown/black.
20. -
21. -
22 white
23. Black/white.
24. -
25. Green.
I have the red/white for the isv in with the red yellow spare fuel pump spade terminal above the fuse box.
All connected like this I'm getting +12v on the brown/yellow cable for the fuel rail which is what's throwing me
I've also changed the fuel pump relay number 62 to a number 18 as suggested to get the N terminal live on ignition to make it easier to test
Last edit: by sweetmk1dub
Posted
Old Timer
.
Last edit: by sweetmk1dub
Posted
MOTY 2013
ok which G spade are you using for pin 14? Not all of them are ignition lives, only 2 and 5 will work here. Ideally you want to put it on an ecu relay as per factory
the black/white is the extra ecu relay feed found on some later G60, its not needed but ifd you do wire up a 30 relay above the fusebox it goes to pin 86a
the red/yellow in pin 3 needs to go to D/13, then you can use the correct digifant 67, 80 or 167 fuel pump relay in slot 2
the black/white is the extra ecu relay feed found on some later G60, its not needed but ifd you do wire up a 30 relay above the fusebox it goes to pin 86a
the red/yellow in pin 3 needs to go to D/13, then you can use the correct digifant 67, 80 or 167 fuel pump relay in slot 2
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Posted
Old Timer
I'll give that a go at the weekend, cheers.
when I checked over the wiring I had ballsed up by putting the green coil trigger with the black cable on the positive side of the coil.
I've now put it right.
I'm hoping that I haven't knackered the ecu by doing this and it's what is causing my pin 12 brown/yellow to give out +12v instead of the negative trigger it's supposed to. (If I can get pin 12 operating correctly the damn thing should run, albeit poorly as I haven't yet fitted a lambda )
Will keep you posted. 👍
when I checked over the wiring I had ballsed up by putting the green coil trigger with the black cable on the positive side of the coil.
I've now put it right.
I'm hoping that I haven't knackered the ecu by doing this and it's what is causing my pin 12 brown/yellow to give out +12v instead of the negative trigger it's supposed to. (If I can get pin 12 operating correctly the damn thing should run, albeit poorly as I haven't yet fitted a lambda )
Will keep you posted. 👍
Posted
MOTY 2013
ah good chance that will be why then, fingers crossed its done no damage
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Posted
Old Timer
Plugged both of my ecu's in too so they will both be knackered.
I sold my old corrado g60 about 9 years ago and a lad from work bought it a couple of months back so I'll try my ecu's on that car at some point this week
I'm actually hoping for duff ecu's as at least it will stop the head scratching
I sold my old corrado g60 about 9 years ago and a lad from work bought it a couple of months back so I'll try my ecu's on that car at some point this week
I'm actually hoping for duff ecu's as at least it will stop the head scratching
Posted
Old Timer
I have been over to try my ecu's on my mates car.
First just used my tester on his fuel rail and I'm getting the same readings as my own car so even though it's not reading what it should (probably my old fluke testers) I know that mine should work.
When I tried my ecu's on his car, one worked and the other didn't.
Next step is pull the fuel rail apart to inspect the loom inside
First just used my tester on his fuel rail and I'm getting the same readings as my own car so even though it's not reading what it should (probably my old fluke testers) I know that mine should work.
When I tried my ecu's on his car, one worked and the other didn't.
Next step is pull the fuel rail apart to inspect the loom inside
Posted
Old Timer
Does the it matter which are the pos/neg terminals on the injectors?
My brown/yellow negative trigger from ecu pin 12 goes to the red cable in the fuel rail loom.
My red positive cable to the fuel rail goes to the brown cables in the fuel rail loon
This hasn't been changed since it was fitted in the donor car though.
Loom in the fuel rail looks perfect, hasn't gone brittle
My brown/yellow negative trigger from ecu pin 12 goes to the red cable in the fuel rail loom.
My red positive cable to the fuel rail goes to the brown cables in the fuel rail loon
This hasn't been changed since it was fitted in the donor car though.
Loom in the fuel rail looks perfect, hasn't gone brittle
Posted
MOTY 2013
doesnt matter which way you wire the injectors, they'll work fine either way.
on my g60 diagram it shows ecu earth to pin 2 of the 2 pin plug, brown on injector harness. live from fusebox is on pin 1, red wire on harness.
on my g60 diagram it shows ecu earth to pin 2 of the 2 pin plug, brown on injector harness. live from fusebox is on pin 1, red wire on harness.
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Posted
Old Timer
I thought that's how it should be.
I'll leave it as is though as it hasn't been changed since running in the donor.
I have ordered the relevant fuel relay and ecu relay and will be putting these in next.
If that doesn't get the injectors working properly then Im stuck
I'll leave it as is though as it hasn't been changed since running in the donor.
I have ordered the relevant fuel relay and ecu relay and will be putting these in next.
If that doesn't get the injectors working properly then Im stuck
Posted
Old Timer
Righto, I've had half hour free today so I thought I'd add the extra relay for the fuel rail.
I'm leaving the k-jet relay fitted in slot 2 and just putting an extra relay above the fuse box purely for the fuel rail positive.
To be triggered by the red/yellow pin 3 on the ecu.
I'm not getting 12v on this red/yellow while cranking and coupled with no negative on the brown/yellow which gives me even more reason to think that the ecu is knackered 🙁
Im sure this ecu has an aftermarket chip fitted and I have a standard chip in my toolbox so I'll fit that when I get chance just to rule it out before buying a replacement ecu
I'm leaving the k-jet relay fitted in slot 2 and just putting an extra relay above the fuse box purely for the fuel rail positive.
To be triggered by the red/yellow pin 3 on the ecu.
I'm not getting 12v on this red/yellow while cranking and coupled with no negative on the brown/yellow which gives me even more reason to think that the ecu is knackered 🙁
Im sure this ecu has an aftermarket chip fitted and I have a standard chip in my toolbox so I'll fit that when I get chance just to rule it out before buying a replacement ecu
Last edit: by sweetmk1dub
Posted
Old Timer
I'm not going to get 12v on pin 3 as it's a negative trigger for the relay, I'll re-do that relay when I'm next in the garage then.
I really don't like car electrics
I really don't like car electrics
Posted
MOTY 2013
yeah you would need to wire it like so:
30 - live
85 - ecu pin 3
86 - ignition live, D/2, D/7 or G spade 2 or 5
87 - to fuel pump/rail/lambda
with a fuse on the live or fuel pump pin
30 - live
85 - ecu pin 3
86 - ignition live, D/2, D/7 or G spade 2 or 5
87 - to fuel pump/rail/lambda
with a fuse on the live or fuel pump pin
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