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Getting frustrated.

there isnt a fuse on the ignition live just direct from the ignition. if the dash lights come on that shows there is at least some life from the switch, do they stay on while cranking?

quick n dirty test to check if you have a supply issue from the fusebox is run a wire from the battery to the spare ignition live spade on the coil. if it starts fine like this then check your fusebox wiring for the coil :)

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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rubjonny said

there isnt a fuse on the ignition live just direct from the ignition. if the dash lights come on that shows there is at least some life from the switch, do they stay on while cranking?

quick n dirty test to check if you have a supply issue from the fusebox is run a wire from the battery to the spare ignition live spade on the coil. if it starts fine like this then check your fusebox wiring for the coil :)

Ok makes sense. so should i be checking the fuses or not? sorry, not massively clued up on this, learning a lot from it but still not completely up to scratch!

Yes all the lights stay on whilst cranking, it is also fitted with an immobiliser using a fob that i have to put in the cigarette lighter and a light shows up on the fob and then i can turn the ignition on and once the flashing light at the top of the dash stops flashing and ive kept the light on the fob the whole time its on i can then turn the car over. Ive heard people having issues with immobilisers but its never played up before.

I will give that a try, i think we may have already tried that but didnt have any lucky but cant remember for sure.

Thanks!

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its worth having a look at them anyway, but non of them shoudl be for the ignition feed to the coil. its possible the aimmob may be tapped into a fused feed and thats causing it somehow mind.

faulty immob would be a top suspect if its cut into the ignition feed, plus check all your ignition switch wiring plus the engien loom behind the fusebox, its the big white plug.  the ignition feed to the fusebox is tapped after the clock ignition feed so its possible for that to be damaged but the clocks still power up if you get me.

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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Re:

rubjonny said

its worth having a look at them anyway, but non of them shoudl be for the ignition feed to the coil. its possible the aimmob may be tapped into a fused feed and thats causing it somehow mind.

faulty immob would be a top suspect if its cut into the ignition feed, plus check all your ignition switch wiring plus the engien loom behind the fusebox, its the big white plug.  the ignition feed to the fusebox is tapped after the clock ignition feed so its possible for that to be damaged but the clocks still power up if you get me.

Well, been to inspect the golf further today. Found that my coil had been wired the wrong way around with the positive to earth, dont think this is a massive issue think it just gives a weaker spark? Found i was getting power to the coil due to testing incorrect side of coil last time as the wiring was incorrect (woops)

Checked my immobiliser and was working fine and functioning correctly, allowing power to through etc etc…

Then followed all the tests through in the haynes, the ignition module, module plug, etc. All tests were fine and correct voltage was getting to everywhere required!

The only test that failed was on the hall sensor, 0v was seen when turning the pulleys and therefore sensor!

Took the distributor off to have a look at the sensor inside the distributor itself, found a test on this forum where you connect the positive and negative of the distributor plug pins to relevant terminals on the battery and then turning it by hand but still nothing on multimeter.

Anyone know where i csn get a nee distributor or sensor kit?

Part numbers on mine are:

Bosch

026905206
0237020103
Z415




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Look at my earlier post. I had the exact same problems. contact H&H Ignition solutions. they will fully rebuild your distributor including new hall sensor ( think it cost £148 ) It returned like a brand new unit. refitted it and it fired up straight away. set the timing and Ive not had a problem since. I used them in the past to rebuild a distributor for my V8 Westfield. they are the best..
  i posted mine to them and had it back in just over a week.

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Tankerman24 said

Look at my earlier post. I had the exact same problems. contact H&H Ignition solutions. they will fully rebuild your distributor including new hall sensor ( think it cost £148 ) It returned like a brand new unit. refitted it and it fired up straight away. set the timing and Ive not had a problem since. I used them in the past to rebuild a distributor for my V8 Westfield. they are the best..
  i posted mine to them and had it back in just over a week.

Sorry mate, suddenly remembered your post when i sae your name.pop off!

Thanks again !!

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Hope you get sorted. it drove me  mad till I got mine sussed.

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Tankerman24 said

Hope you get sorted. it drove me  mad till I got mine sussed.

Cheers!! Me too!

It has been frustrating but ive learnt a lot so not all bad ðŸ'



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UPDATE!!!

Fitted a new distributor, IT STILL WONT START!!!!

It just turns over and over but never ever fires at all, and there is no spark at the plugs.

The coil has been checked again and we think the Ohms reading on the LT might be faulty. It gives a reading of 00.7 on the 200 setting on the multi meter, now heres the confusion, does that mean it is 0.7Ohms or 0.07Ohms? As if it is 0.7 then that is within the limits specified in the Haynes manual and then its even more of an issue because everything is fine and makes the not starting even more of a mystery and frustration.

Also where do these figured come from? As im unsure as to whether the coil on the car atm is the factory one or one that was fitted at some point in its life. Do all coils very in their resistance properties? i know you can get 3Ohm or 1.5Ohm Ballast coils but surely each coil varies and how would i know whcih one to purchase if i needed to buy a new one? apart from a 12v for electronic ignition.

Thanks for any help in advance!

Beginning to lose faith and patience with it!!  :(

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UPDATE!!!

ITS ALIVE!!

Tried a newer coil and set the timing and its up and running, what a releif.

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Yeahhhhhhhhh !

Congrats.   :thumbs:

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Yay, time to enjoy :)

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Wow… That sounded like a right headache for you. Congrats on your persistance and patience and now enjoy this great British weather. ( greatish ) 👍

1990 Golf GTI cabrio 1.8i.  DX Engine
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