Where is 900 rpm??

I wonder why it's best at 2% when Haynes manual says 0.5-1.5%.  I'll try get it to 2% but no one seems to want to tune it where I live or even test the carbon manoxide level. 

Which order should I do it then? Get the CO level right and then get the idle and timing to that or other way around? 

Timing 1st then CO level.
The idle speed will change when ever you touch the timing or mixture screw (CO adjustment) so you will need to keep setting it when adjusting them.
I would aim for 1.5% - 2% as it's only the smallest amount of adjustment on the mixture screw between to 2 settings.

How did you get the reading in the picture?

Can you use the same equipment and again and while it's plugged in adjust the mixture, you will need a long allen key (I think it's 3mm but not sure)  get to the mixture screw and be very gentle poking it in the hole and adjusting the screw as you can push on it and it adjusts the mixture and when you remove the allen key the mixture changes again. Clockwise to increase mixture.

See the bottom of the page in the link I posted at the end of page 1.  

I took it to Gordon's tyres, I've been calling garages all over to get my CO level read with a probe like they do on a MOT test.

The majority of garages that I've spoke to don't even know what I'm talking about when I ask them to check my exhaust gasses. They say "we don't touch tuning on old cars, have you got an ecu we can check." I politely protest by just simply asking for the CO reading then they quote me about £50 etc 

The man who tested it again refuses it again because he thinks I'm wanting it tuning when I'm not at all. I simply want it reading every time I adjust it with my own Allan key. 

I put 1/8 of a turn on the CO screw since the last reading of 0.2% however I have no way of checking to see if that's sorted anything since the guy won't check it again. And other places keep quoting me about £50. Lol. 

Where about in the country are you?
If any where near Somerset you could use my Gunson gas tester for free and we could get the same setting as in my car as the Gunson is not that accurate.

£50 is a bit steep.

Man that's so nice of you! I live four hour away in West Yorkshire haha I have a friend I used to serve in the army from where you are from! 
I did pop 1/8 of a turn on my screw and steadied the idle after etc.. it's not running so bad, I'm kind of checking my spark plugs after I drive to see what they are telling me ! Wish I had a gas tester lol..
Wonder if it is just a tinny noise that the car makes under acceleration that I'm just not used to ? And I'm thinking it's a fault I don't know ?

is it a whirring noise, or a ping.
Ping can be bad gas, or timing needs tweeking.

Whirring can be a timing belt too tight, or a V belt….usually in my experience.

Or it could be something that you didn't hear before and it is normal……
Mind, Ears, all play tricks on you.  I thought I had a hell of a Vacuum leak the other day, and it was but the Stereo playing a Original 45 from the 50's as a test of the difference between what was recorded and what was digitally remastered…  Scared the Bejeezers outta me…for a minute till I hit MUTE.

Few on ebay like this.
I paid £35 for mine as I would not pay much more as I don't think they are worth the £100+ price tag as they are not 100% accurate.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/gunsons-gas-tester-/172593455632?hash=item282f5f2210:g:U3AAAOSw4A5Y1oOh

dont bother with a gunson seriously. mine said 1.5%, it was actually something like 0.2%.  and this was a brand new 'pro' version!

need to find yourself a vw specialist ideally, or any local garage ask them to do an mot emissions check and tell them all they need to do is adjust the co screw till its around 1-2%. or just plug the tester in and let you do it!

with the ignition timing 6 degrees is the factory setting, usually with decent fuel you can add a little bit more. i start at 8 degrees and work from there, if I can be bothered. usually I cant, so I start at 8 degrees, and leave it at 8 degrees

the optimal co% and ignition timing depends on a lot of things, getting it there takes a fair bit of trial and error. if you can find one preferably use a man with a beard and a laptop who can tune it with his calibrated ass dyno out on the open road

I'm booked in with a tuning specialist on tues, he's mobile though lol so god knows what he can achieve?? I've got it all set to what I believe is right… on Wednesday Im booked into an exhaust specialist too to see if they can find any leaks or whatever in my brand new exhaust system (front to back) with the four branch fitted etc because as it drives now, my car sounds like a sewing machine under load after all I've done ?! 

Is the 4 branch wrapped in exhaust tape?

This sort of stuff?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10M-TITANIUM-HEAT-WRAP-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-10-CABLE-TIES-30cm-/190649047733?hash=item2c63919ab5:m:mR_OjeMV93AVh166hcxepeg

I did read that the stainless steel manifold can create more noise, I can't say if this is true as I wrapped mine to keep the heat down in the engine bay and around the rubber steering UJ boot. The manifold is a well worth upgrade as my car seems a lot more eager higher up the rev range.

A new exhaust also can seem a little tinny at 1st till the carbon has built up a bit inside as that seems to quiten it down a little.

Thinkg is, the car sounded this way before.. that chattery tick, sewing machine horrible tinny, rough noise even with the other manifold on (toilet bowel) thing…  I wish I had a go in another mk1 to see if that's just how they sound ?? It only happens under acceleration and not at idle or revving at idle. Weird… I'll wrap it too to see if that helps it