Loose axel

1987 mk1 golf cabriolet 1.8 GTI

Ok so. 2 problems really i am having problems with the track/tie rod end. It seems to be a solid one and i cant see if it has a thread. Is there an easy way to get it off?

 Also i have just done the outer cv boot rubber and noticed that the axle seems to be really loose when not connectted to the hub carrierer. Is this normal, there is movement in and out of the inner cv joint. I have a new inner rubber boot so i will have to take it apart again, as i didnt have the 12 point special tool. Any help and information on this would be appreciated 😊

maybe i was imagining the loose axel. i have put it all bck together and it seems ok. i will keep checking on it though, unless anyone thinks different. and the axel shouldnt slide in and out like that so easily. but the track rod. i am gonna have a look if there is a tool to grip the rod

From new VW fitted only 1 adjustable track rod (I think it's the drivers side?) If the track rod end has play in it and needs replacing then you need to replace the whole track rod and undo the old one from the steering rack and fit a new track rod and track rod end, it's best to get an adjustable one (not sure you can still buy a none adjustable one?) so next time the track rod end wears out you can just replace the end.

There is meant some play in the drive shaft and CV joint when it's out of the car as the CV joint is just a load of ball bearing in a case allowing movement in all directions. Once in the hub carrier and the hub nut done up it should be tight but you will get some play in and out of the drive shaft.

Hope you fitted a new hub nut when putting it all back together? I did not last time I did mine and the nut came slightly lose and wreaked my wheel bearing and they are not easy to replace.

On the original Golf/Rabbits I had a 81 Diesel, that had a one piece RH tie-rod inner/outer.  

To remove it you have to remove the inner tier-rod with a inner tie-rod removal tool.  

Over here you can rent the tool, or buy one for about 30-40 dollars.

But you can get a Inner rod, and separate outer rod for a Cabriolet for the RH side and then the Alignment shops have a better way to align your car.  

I did this the first time I had to replace the tie-rod.

Axle's loose in the hub?  Well when I replace them I clean out the hub, and apply Never-seize to the inner teeth of the hub, so I don't have to beat it to get it out and until I tighten the nut it is free to move about a bit.

When you replace the axle if the joint is compressed then you may get a in and out movement.  Do not roll the car on the wheels if the axle is out, you can ruin your hub bearing in as little as 6 inches.

If the Axel is tightened to the proper torque and no other play is felt then you are good to go.

Be Warned that not all Hub Bearing kits are the same, compare your old snap ring to the new, and if the new are bigger eared put in your old ones.  If you use the Bigger eared ones when you tighten your axle nut, you will bind your axle and it can't turn.

Old in the rear New one that is wrong in front.

Ok yeh i dont know why but i always start on the left side first. Must be habit once it was all togethere in the hub it didnt move, i think i just had a bit of doubt about it moving out from the inner cv. Thanks mark1gls

So briano it is tight in the hub. I have done the same all greased up and cleaned. The grips for the cv boot were a bit weak looking in my opinion. But the last one was held on by zip ties and they kept it on so gonna leave it and just check after a few miles.

Heres my track rod from what you are saying it is probably the none adjustable type. Although the ones i have bought look similar but have a threaded hole so would lend themselves to being adjustable. So i may have to get a new track rod.





With the hub nut could i use thread locker until i get some new nuts (he he)

danm just thinking i separated the bearings out to press them in the hub carriers. and i think i may have left the new nut's in the box. i will check and if so i will put them on tomorrow

danm just thinking i separated the bearings out to press them in the hub carriers. and i think i may have left the new nut's in the box. i will check and if so i will put them on tomorrow. i have far to many parts in the garage atm. gonna ahve to have a tidy

TZoo5446 said

 i have far to many parts in the garage atm. gonna ahve to have a tidy

Know that Feeling…..
Yes those are the non-adjustable tie-rod.

But as I said you can order a set inner and outer for a cabriolet and wally's your uncle, you have a 2 piece.

Just remove the bellows (or boot) and use a tool wrench Cresent, to get the old one off.

Yes that's a none adjustable track rod end.
It's a bit tight for space but possible to change the track rod, I used a pair of water pump pliers to hold the track rod and a thin spanner to undo the locking nut (steering rack end) If you turn the steering wheel you can adjust where the steering end of the track rod is to get it in a better position to undo it, once the locking nut is loosened from the track rod (It does not need to be moved very far) you can unscrew the track rod from the steering rack. You will need to push the rubber boot out of the way to get to the nut.
If you look in your Haynes Manual there is some measurements of the length of new track rod which will need setting up before you fit it to the car.

New track rod.

Febi 04451 Tie Rod, Complete - OE Ref: 171419804 | AVS Car Parts

Better picture of the track rod but the Febi is a better make,

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Golf+Cabriolet_1.8_1987/p/car-parts/steering/suspension-and-steering/track-rod-and-track-rod-end/?605440108&1&658031aa581058f664acbc0667037e9c7fcdf1a9&000584

 I used a Q drive track rod and a Febi track rod end but found out the rubber washer which the rubber boot fits on is slightly to big and the boot would split after about 6 months of use so I changed it over with my old one from my old worn track rod. I changed the steering rack and track rods with the engine in and the car on axle stands on the drive as the car is my daily so it is possible.

I noticed in your picture you nut is not all the way off the track rod end, it's best to remove it competely before breaking the joint to the hub as the nut can still be locked on and the shaft of the track rod end then just spins and you wont be able to remove the nut, I take mine off and just screw it back on enough so the plastic locking locking part inside the nut is not on the threads, if you have the other type with a split pin then don't worry. My collection of new parts.


 

nice one cheers for the help guys. running smooth as silk now. i have a new track rod on order for the left side. so i will fit that next weekend. i think i may have put my steering out a bit, the steering wheel is not straight any more, so i will readjust it a bit, maybe the track rod on the right is just a bit off. it started snowing so i rushed the last bit. i took loads of photos so i will put it on as a guide.

Mark1gls, are you trying to start a comp for the amout of new parts ha haa

DO NOT remove the steering and straighten it up, you will start to throw out the alignment of the steering rack.
You will find the garage/tyre fitters will lock the steering wheel straight and then adjust the tracking so it's straight then you will find that your car will have a tighter turning circle 1 way and possible worse case the tyre can rub on the wishbone if really out of line when on full lock.

Best way is to jack up the both sides of the front of the car and count the turns lock to lock and centralize the steering rack, fit the steering wheel so it's straight then get your tracking adjusted, you may find the steering wheel is on a angle when driving untill the tracking is adjusted then it should be straight once done.

It may be worth checking the alignment of the steering rack once for have fitted the new track rod.

ok cheers mark, i am gonna get back to it this weekend. i have some little issues i will sort out, slight camber, which i believe is the carrier to strut being slightly miss aligned when i put it back together. iwill install the new track rod on the left and check some of the little niggles that i have got.

could i use thread lock for the spindle nuts, other wise i gotta replace them every time i do something?
 

TZoo5446 said

could i use thread lock for the spindle nuts, other wise i gotta replace them every time i do something?

Just so I'm 100% clear before answering, which nut do you mean?
 

technically yes the tie rod end nuts are self-locking nuts which are use once, they are usually included with new ends so no problem. they're only cheap so if you have the time to buy new ones no reason not to

the left track rod should be set to the correct factory length, and the adjustment only done from the right side. make sure the rack is properly centred, and the rod needs to be threaded on a certain amount also. heres all the info you will need:

You will need to get the camber set up right before you set up the tracking as adjusting the camber after setting up the tracking can throw out the tracking, some tyre places can do camber and tracking but not all, you might need to find a good garage/wheel alignment center.

There is a few guides and ways to set the camber yourself if you can find a flat level surface to work on.

I remove 1 wheel and lower the car onto another trolly jack with blocks on (so it does not rest on the brake disc or disc cover) which is places underneath the wishbone and facing out so it rolls out when the car is lowered, bonce on the car a few times, get the car level (use a spirt level) and place a level/gauge on the hub and adjust the camber, I use a spirt level and get the bubble to just touch the line so there is a little negative camber
Move over to the other side and do it all again.

If the camber is way out or never been set before it may be worth getting it done properly, I did get mine done at a garage before and I checked there setting before taking things apart so I could set it up to how it was before.



Check on the brake disc (where the level is in the picture) and the edge of the nub (the drive shaft stick out so the level wont sit flat)  incase the brake disc is not completely flat

Picture just for reference I place the jack on a different angle (facing out) and I do it in the garage with a concrete floor so the jack moves.

I did mine similar to the above but took the wheel off 1 side and put a jack under the wishbone so I could adjust it till the car was level.

I used a magnetic spirit level on the lower strut brace so I knew the 2 wishbones were level with each other, then to set the camber I have one of these:
http://www.frost.co.uk/trakrite-magnetic-camber-castor-gauge-wheel-alignment.html

worked a treat, and the car handles like it was on rails even though it was only a floppy top

I put the jack under the disc with the wheel bolts in, that way its loaded up as it would be with the wheel on, so you are in fact setting it up with the wheels on.

cant see how loading it under the ball joint would be any different really?

I would not want to support my car on a brake disc that could spin/move at any moment, I think your asking for trouble jacking it there.

The back wheels are on the ground with the h/brake on, and its not supported at the bottom of the disc but on the hub centre, and I use a scissor jack which has a curve on it , which fits the hub.  It cannot fall of.