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1.8 8v Gti running issues

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1.8 Gti stuttering as if not getting enough fuel or missing

Thanks for the advice, I've noticed the fuel pump is working as I can hear it when I start the car, I'll have a listen for the WUR Relay too. I may just change it to be on the safe side, it's the original so a new one won't harm. Needless to say, the K-jet system isn't nightmare. Haha

ConvictGTI-No.1983EW said

Ryan,

Make sure the warm up regulator relay buzzes, which is located above the fuse box, as well as the fuel pump when you first attempt to crank the engine .

There should be two buzzing sounds when you turn the key-the first one will come from the rear of the car (fuel pump) priming and the second will come from under the dash where the WUR relay is located along the top of the fuse box.

If there's no buzzing coming from under the dash near the fuse box check the WU Relay along the top row of relays on the fuse box.

I had a hell of a time  :banghead:  with my 1993 1.8 JH engine cabrio, when it would intermittently run perfectly then next start refuse to fire or start then rev, splutter and stall.

I pulled the WUR apart and cleaned it, had the cold start valve - ( 5th injector) cleaned, pulled the tank pumps out etc etc….

Many articles have listed all sorts of remedies but it was by sure luck on the USA Cabby Co website - Trouble Shooting, one person mentioned the  warm up regulator relay.

To cut a long story short, the relay was working its way loose from the contacts/wiring on the fuse box.

This happened if I nudged the gutter when parking front in or travelled on gravel/corrugated roads. :devil:

To test the relay simply listen or touch the outside of relay whilst cranking the engine when its cold. It will vibrate/buzz if its working. If it doesn't press it in or wriggle it and try to start the car again.

I didn't know much about K-jetronic fuel injection but I do now after that experience!  :nod:

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Hey guys, thanks again for all your help and advice yet again. Only a small update. With the severe weather and a few issues at home and at work since my last update I haven't had time to further the project.

I bought a refurb kit for my WUR, and having stripped it, it appeared in pretty good condition. I replaced everything anyway and fitted it back to the engine. NO DIFFERENCE!

I'll be fitting the WUR I was kindly sent this week to see if that changes anything, but I don't hold any hope at this point.

What I did for my own curiosity was start the engine from cold, and remove the electrical connection from the WUR to see if it changed anything. Again, no change, so I  attached and removed it several times but there was no difference in the way the engine ran (which was badly).

My next step after trying the other WUR is to replace or at least test the relays under the dash.

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT NUMBER RELAY IS SPECIFIC TO THE WUR?

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Hi
I'll be honest I haven't read through all of this thread but my advice for what it's worth is invest in a fuel pressure gauge, without one you're just guessing, if it is the WUR or control pressure regulator it will show up immediately. If you do get one be careful though, cover the battery well and have a decent extinguisher.
I have a heavy length of electrical flex long enough to reach from the relay board to the front of the car 1mm  I think it is, one end is soldered to the large contacts of an old fuel pump relay and the other has a switch attached to operate the pump remotely, much easier than fiddling around at the relay board.
 

Last edit: by cedar

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Hi Ryan

I went through similar pain on my Rivage. Similar spluttering

- replaced Fuel pumps
- timing checked over and over again
- oil pump
- spark plugs and leads replaced
- tried another metering head (no good)
- WUR seemed to check out ok.

In the end I pulled all 4 injectors out and made a little rig up using some empty clear beer bottles, bridged the fuel relay and saw that 3 out of 4 injectors were clogged , 2 were just a dribble.

I replaced all 4 with new ones (£120 from car  parts for less)and then I had to sort out fuelling as the previous owner had increased fuelling to compensate, once this was adjusted its been running like a dream since.

bottles below in link

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f16/b4dxx/Cars/Green%20Rivage/4BD0E9EE-FAE7-4A03-B6BE-4D37139C1D1A_zpsnxhzthi5.mp4

Hope that helps

Alps
 

Last edit: by Alps

Alps 1992 Rivage Green, 1991 Rivage Blue (SOLD), 1986 GTI convertible White (SOLD) 

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Alps said

Hi Ryan

I went through similar pain on my Rivage. Similar spluttering

- replaced Fuel pumps
- timing checked over and over again
- oil pump
- spark plugs and leads replaced
- tried another metering head (no good)
- WUR seemed to check out ok.

In the end I pulled all 4 injectors out and made a little rig up using some empty clear beer bottles, bridged the fuel relay and saw that 3 out of 4 injectors were clogged , 2 were just a dribble.

I replaced all 4 with new ones (£120 from car  parts for less)and then I had to sort out fuelling as the previous owner had increased fuelling to compensate, once this was adjusted its been running like a dream since.

bottles below in link
http://s44.photobucket.com/user/b4dxx/media/Cars/Green%20Rivage/4BD0E9EE-FAE7-4A03-B6BE-4D37139C1D1A_zpsnxhzthi5.mp4.html that helps

Alps
 

Link not working, copy and paste the IMG code into your post.
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Re:

Thanks for that, I've been avoiding changing the injectors to be honest. But if my Relay issues aren't the problem then I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and buy 4 new ones. They are the originals from 1989 after all. Lol

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My car's a 1988 and I'm on my 3rd set of injectors but I've done a few miles in my car. Mine lasted about 125,000 miles each time.

My old injectors would seem to flood the car when starting from cold so I would run without the 5th injector plugged in and it would start a bit better.
Hesitation on accelerating.

You can pull them out and check the spray pattern and see if the leak before fitting new ones as they have seem to gone up in price over the years.
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Hi, you can get your injectors cleaned\tested, cost about £60ish. I used http://mrinjectoruk.co.uk/ One of mine was badly blocked but was cleaned ok.

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there isnt a relay specifically for the WUR, it just gets 12v from the fuel pump relay.  the relay mentioned is probably the one for the increased idle valve on the turret, found on later kjet cars.

have you had the base idle and co checked yet? your symptoms sound similar to what I had on my digifant mk2 when it was set way to lean
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

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Well that knocks my Relay idea on the head then. The CO is pretty good, it was done in January. The base idle was retarded also. But they couldn't get it spot on due to the ongoing symptoms.

I'll look into testing if not replacing my injectors in the meantime then. And to answer a previous post I don't have a brown Haynes I have the red.

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test them first mate, no point replacing stuff if it doesn't need it.
Alps 1992 Rivage Green, 1991 Rivage Blue (SOLD), 1986 GTI convertible White (SOLD) 

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Re:

Thanks for that Wayne. I have a little time on the weekend (first one off for a while) so I'll get my cousin over to help out and I'll check if the relay vibrates. I can tell you it's very frustrating as its likely something really simple.

On another note, I have two injectors that are not working correctly. The spray pattern is not a cone shape, it looks like an old man having a pee. So I'm looking for a company local to me to price up refurbishing them all to see if it's worth doing that or buying new.

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1.8 8v Gti running issues

Quick update. I've tested the relay, the only relay that clicks is the white one as shown in the picture, when I turn the ignition key to position 1.



I also have some head and injector issues which will take some explaining if anyone's game?

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Re: 1.8 8v Gti running issues


Sorry, I forgot to say it's the white relay that clicks

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Sorry if this is stating  the obvious  but if two injectors are working as they should and the other two are dribbling why not swop them and see what you get, you can prove the injectors are at fault then.

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Hi, MrInjector does a postal service, thats what I did, 3 or 4 day turnaround I think.

He is also on ebay as well, that's how I found him.

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The No 62 relay is the fuel pump relay and it won't click or do anything till the car is cranking over on the ignition, No 62 relays don't prime the fuel pump as it's not needed to start the car.
If there was a fault with the relay the car would not start.
Have you tried unplugging the blue electrical plug on the 5th injector and starting the car? If the injectors are leaking fuel when the car is switched off it floods the engine when you start it and the 5th injector sprays more fuel in. I ran for about a year without the 5th injector as I had leakey injectors.
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Hello again gents, to answer the 5th injector question, yes I have done that and it made no difference. But thanks for the suggestion.

I have an update on the injector issues. I've taken then to reputable injector specialist in Swansea (before I saw your suggestions guys), one has been cleaned and is now working 100% in testing, though not in the car yet as  I haven't had them back.

The guy is also able to get the original Bosch injectors for a pretty good price too. The second injector that wasn't working didn't clean up so well, so I'm having a new one. The tester told me that they were both full of junk (probably from the rust in the tank from the filler neck which I changed a long time ago). With that in mind, I'm taking the other two to be cleaned and tested next month.

Thanks again for all your help guys, your knowledge is far deeper than mine.

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if you have crud in your injectors that means its got past the filter, and through the metering head and wur. probably wont have done either of them any good so you may have to replace the lot :(
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

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Luckily I've refurbished the WUR, but in all honesty, it wasn't really that bad, it was really clean inside and the gauze filter was pretty much spotless, I changed everything anyway just to be safe. But I am worried about the metering head. I have new fuel lines from that to the injectors though, I've recently changed the fuel pump and changed the fuel filter a few times.

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