MEGASQUIRT ON 1.8 8V GTI ?

I believe you can do it both ways, personally I'd keep the ignition amp as it keeps the spark load outside of the ecu and they are proven to be bomb proof.

I'm probably worrying too much though, not like G60 ecus have problems driving the coils direct without an ignition amp

I cant afford to fry the ecu ! Haha Im just double checking everything before I start wiring ! As far as I can tell so far, the ecu just needs to intercept the signal from the dizzy to adjust the advance the spark. So many contradicting versions of wiring on the net...

if its built properly it'll be fine

with the wiring diagrams it depends which ECU version you go for and how its been built, this is one to ask the ecu builder about he'll know which diagram you need to follow

Not sure how to mount the ecu, but no going back now !
On another note.. is it possible to take two feeds of the coolant sensor ? I bought one from extraefi but I was hoping to fit in the hole where the thermotime switch was, but the thread is too large ??? Could maybe get a new boss welded on the coolant flange??
Maybe there is another sender that will fit in that hole ?

Need to replace some of what is left of the original bay loom as there are quite a few splits and breaks !!

no you cant use 2 feeds on a single coolant sensor. if you want to keep the kjet front flange what you need is a pre-88 mk2 digifant white ecu temp sensor, 035919369M. it fits the hole where the 5th inj thermoswitch used to go and is the same resistance as most mk2/3/4 ecu temp sensors

Once again you are the man john !
Going to have to get you on speed dial !
Slowly making progress and now have all the final bits on their way in the post !

Coming along slowly…

Thinking about using this instead of the current throttle body, maybe smooth out the inlet side for more flow ? Would save me the job of switching over the tps as mine has no lugs to attach it…

main thing with those TB is make sure they will fit, the TPS unit is very tall and often fowls on the gubbins underneath thats the trouble. if it goes on though great

only thing is it looks quite restrictive on the smaller port vs a normal GTI one, though not sure if that would actually make much of a difference. Think it might be a 2.0 16v thing?  anyway heres a mk2 16v one for comparison:
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sometimes the front half can be split o0ff from the main housing, if so you may be able to fit a mk2 one on there to open it back up?

I'll have to have a proper look and check clearence !

I have to run a wire from the ecu to the fuel pump relay, I have heard that pin d13 on the fuse board is a good place but will have to check. The relay is currently fired by coil so I assume it will be obvious when I pop it out.

yes d/13 is for the fuel relay earth trigger, with that you use a 67, 80 or 167 fuel relay. fuel pump feed to E/14 on the rear loom, you can put a male spade on the same pin like a factory mk1/2 digi setup and feed the lambda heater off it. fuel injectors you feed from the big N spade

Swapping the relays is purely for the limiter as I understand it ? Also as its a gti cabby the fuel pump feed is already there or do I need to move it ?
Not looked at this part of the wiring yet as I deliberately left all this till last.
Got next week off work so hopefully should have it up and running by next weekend, well as long as the weather holds out as im doing all this on my driveway !!!

the kjet 8v relays all work off the rev counter pulse from the coil, some have a rev limiter built into them and some dont.

for an ms install though I recommend you use the ecu trigger to D/13 and swap the fuel relay for a 67/80/167 relay so the ecu has full control over the fuel pump

the GTI cabby will have the fuel pump wiring in as you sday, plus the male spade I mention hanging off the same feed you can utilise for the lambda heater

Could'nt use the audi t/b as there is no idle screw !
So I moved the tps and shaft into the mk2 8v t/b and made a little bracket to hold the tps !
Just enough clearance and works a treat !

One question I have been pondering is where to fit the wideband lambda ? I have a 4-2-1 manifold ?
Its recommended that they should be about two feet from the exhaust ports, if I do this then it will only be measuring two cylinders ??
To measure all four it would need to be right at the end of the down pipe which is beyond the anti roll bar ?

Not sure if this makes any difference john but my fuel pump feeds come out of E/12 not E/14 as it should ? Yellow/red yes ?
Also there is no wire/pin for d/13 ? Do I have to put a pin in myself ?
Checked other wires on the connectors and they tally up ? I wonder why fuel feeds are coming out of the wrong pin ?
Makes me nervous about using d/13 lol. At the moment my fuel pump relay only works when engine is running/cranking (no priming) so should be ok to use for setting up ?
Also another dumb question but changing the relay means that I dont have to disconnect the coil/rpm signal
 I assume as there is no pin for it on the relay hence switching the d/13 ?
Otherwise I could connect the coil signal straight to the dash loom and then replace the coil signal on the d connector with the ecu signal for the relay ?
Of course this could all be rubbish haha.

Modified the old airbox by removing the air plate and arm, and blocked the metering head hole !

Finished wiring the ecu and the separate fuse block !