Firing Order-Timing with Strobe??

I have new leads, dizy cap, rotor arm, coil, had the line bang on and it runs horrible, if it runs at all, had it just a little before, its a little better, with all lining up at 1 at tdc, is the correct as there has been that many mehcanics attempt the timing, but I dont think none of them are oldskool and without them having a computer hooked up, with no disrespect, they just dont get the OLDSKOOL cars!! Please please, can someone word me up on this Mk1 Golf Gti Cab 1.8i  G-reg 1990!! Thank you in advance  

Firing order is 1-3-4-2 and pretty sure timing should be 6deg before TDC for a 1.8, but I'm sure someone will be along to confirm or deny!

Yes 6 degrees BTDC. If you have a strobe light set it to 6 degrees BTDC and you can set the timing with the marks on the crankshaft pulley and lower cambelt cover (disconnect and plug the advance vacuum hose first). If you have a strobe without advance settings, there is a 6 degree BTDC marker on the flywheel (remove the green plug on the top of the gearbox to see the flywheel).

This is all covered in the Haynes.

Lee

The Haynes manual is tits am sure, but this post has helped a little bit, wish I had a picture of what it should be like when the strobe is shining on it!!  

Im off outside to try again, wish me luck, the vacum pipe has seen better days, think its from new :O Oh my days, little fluffy bit on the end haha

If you are using the crankshaft pulley to do the timing, get some tippex or white paint, and mark the notch in the pulley and the arrow on the belt cover when no1 is at TDC. this makes life much easier with the strobe. Then run the engine until the fan comes on, so it is nice and warm. Disconnect the vac hose and plug it with a bit of tape or similar. Connect your strobe to the lead for no1 spark plug, dial in 6 degrees BTDC and point it at the pulley. The light will flash everytime no1 fires - and it should show the pulley mark lining up with the mark on the belt cover. If it doesn't line up then you need to adjust the distributor body. As you move the body clockwise or anti-clockwise you will see the marks either move closer together, or further apart. Once you have set the timing, reconnect the vac hose and rev the engine - the strobe should show the marks moving apart as the vacuum advance does its thing.

You can get the fluffy vacuum hose:

https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/N0203535/vacuum-hose-3mm-braided-sold-per-metre/

Are you running the car on unleaded or super unleaded as that makes a difference to the how the timing is set up.

I find running super unleaded 97-100 RON makes the car tick over smoother, feels a little more responsive and uses less petrol than normal 95RON unleaded

I don't use a timing light to set up my timing, you can set it up by driving it and listening to the engine.

1st off check and double check all the timing marks on the cambelt then mark where the dissy is so if it all goes wrong you can set it back to how it was before you started.

Get the car ticking over smoothly by turning the dissy and you will have to adjust the tick over speed as well.

Next you need 7mm spanner and a 13mm spanner a quiet road ideally with a hill if possible, get in the car and listen out for any "pinking" under load eg. 20 mph in 3rd gear and slowly push the accelerator to the floor.
If no "pinking" heard get out and advance the timing a little (turn dissy clockwise) and drive the car again listening out for pinking. Keep doing this till you can hear the pinking then retard the timing a little so the pinking stops.
Job done. :-)     

LeeO, thanks man, the thing is I am finding it hard to work out 6 degrees, because the strobe dont have any settings on it, I have marked the pully and cover with white dots, what end do I cover up with tape on the vacum? Dizzy end or other end or both?

I will try anything to get it right, so it means a lot any input you lot are giving me, as something has to work, if I just keep trying

I also Use 97 shell super pluss, it seems a lot better, also it tells you as you open car door on a little German sticker, Super Pluss Only

Right I am going to get the engine warm and have a go at working it out!!

Thanks and wish me luck haha

what end of vacum to I tape up?

Thanks

Hi,
take the hose of the dissie and tape up the end of the hose coming from the inlet manifold.

If you cant adjust your strobe you will need to use it on the flywheel not the crank pulley. The first photo here:
View topic: Setting up timing, - pics - The Mk1 Golf Owners Club
and you are aiming to line up the diamond mark (which is 6 degrees BTDC) with the pointer on the casing.

HTH
Lee

Yeah I have tried everything and after reading through them other posts you put me onto, am thinking I have a missing screw on the metering head/the little screw, is it the "Co" screw? Like a pin with a thread, yeah well I dont have one down that little hole in the fuel metering head unit, its just a hole and no screw, do you think that is defo my lumpy bumpy, stressing out problem, no wonder I have changed leads twice and coil and plugs and dizzy cap and everything, and just reading this, gone and checked it out and no Co Screw in Metering Head unit thing!! Can I buy seperate do you know LeeO? Thanks for your help mate

Are you sure there is no screw - it is very deep down and you need a long 3mm allen key to reach it. It is indeed the mixture screw and if it isn't there your mixture is probably off which will make it run too lean or too rich. I don't know if you can just buy the screw. Sorry.

What colour are your spark plugs?
Grey in colour = mixture is OK
White = mixture to lean
Black = to rich

Try and find a friendly garage which can hook your car up to a CO2 meter for beer money as that's the best way to check your mixture.

The mixture screw is very deep in the hole in the meter head and you won't be able to see it looking down the hole.

Thanks Mark, will go take plugs out now and check,  also the pin on the meter, is NONE EXISTENT I have looked at pictures knocking about, and mine, doesnt seem to have ANY screw? Will go check spark plugs now, and if anything but Grey, then its down to the mixture and is that the screw at back of throttle body or screw thats meant to be in top of fuel flow meter head thing?

Thanks Mark

Thanks LeeO, only saw your comment above Marks just now, but no guys I defo dont think there is a blooming screw, oh no, so that means the mixture and air is fluctuating?

I am thinking to many years ago to my folks old corsa, was a 3 pot engine and the airflow meter was tiny but the same kind of feeling now come to think of it, oh no, so its been this all along, wish I would have known, now I do though, now its a case of finding one, at the right price!!?? DOnt think they do the screw, think its a full meter job! haha

The screw at the back of the throttle body only does the idle speed, what can happen is the rubber O-ring can go hard and squashed then it starts to loosen it self and let air in. Your car is fitted with an anti stall device which tries to keep the car running and the idle speed goes up and down.
Easy thing to try isget the car warm and increase the idle speed using the screw to about 1100 rpm then give the throttle a little blip then lower the idle to 1000 rpm and see if that's any better.

The bolt/screw in the meter head is for the mixture.


Pictures..
Idle screw fitted in throttle body. You need a 7mm spanner/socket.


Old flat O-ring fitted to my idle screw which used to work it self lose, used to take about a month.



New O-ring fitted.


 

You are a ledge you LeeO, as that screw moved with fingers, so am thinking the "O" ring washer is goosed? Where I get them from VW Heritage?  

So with there not being a screw in the fuel metering head unit, that would have a big impact on amount of air/fuel mixture? So its sucking fair to much air and not enough fuel, vice versa??

Thank you for the pictures LeeO, BIG HELP, also, can you be a diamond and when you get a minute, could you take a birds eye view pic of your fuel metering head screw? Thanks, your a top man!!

My name is not leeO….  
Any O ring can be used and if you take the old one or idle screw to a motor factors they may have one they can give to you?
 I'll get the size for you if needed as I measured mine.

I agree with Mark - any motor factor can do the o-rings - VWH only sell a complete replacement idle screw. I replaced the o-ring on mine recently - it is an easy job and does make a difference.

I don't think I can do a photo of the mixture screw as I haven't ever removed it - and have read that it is best not to as they can be tricky to get back in. I have never seen a photo of one on google - you might have to buy a second hand air box just to get the screw!

Lee