Mk1 g60 conversion possible ECU fault

Hi i have put a mk2 8v g60 digi engine into my mk1 but can't get it running i have
power to ECU
Earths good
New fuel and ECU relays
Power to hall sensor and signal out to ECU
Spark at plugs
Fuel to rail
12v to fuel rail

I don't have the pulse neg tho from ECU to the fuel rail and also the fuel pump runs perminatly doesn't prime then stop.
does this point to faulty ECU any advice would be great or where to find info as im dieing to get it running haha thanks for any advice mark.

what fuel relay are you using, 67/80/167 if so your symptoms do point to blown ecu, be sure the gearbox earth is good and you have upgraded to late mk2 earth stud on the upper ear engine -> gearbox mounting bolt

Thanks for the reply i have read lots of stuff you have wrote on various topics witch points me to the ECU.
If im onist i dont know what fuel relay it is running how can i tell?
The gearbox earth i have bolted to the mount where there was a captive nut not being used. What is that update for the earth? I get a good earth all over the engine with my multimeter.

fuel relay number/location would depend on who made the loom and how they did it tbh, when I make them i would convert it so the factory fuel relay socket is used which would be slot 2 for the CE1 fusebox or slot 12 if it had a full CE2 fusebox swap. the relay used then would be 67, 80 or 167 which is an ecu triggered type.

if its on an ignition switched relay such as a 53 or 18 then that'll be why its always on with the ignition

upper gearbox bracket you mean? not an ideal location as corrosion builds up between box and bracket, plus if bits been painted etc.

on the late mk2 and mk3 the gearbox earth goes to a stud on the rearmost of the upper gearbox -> engine bolts, the massive 19mm bolts at the top you cant miss em

Rite i see well its running off a stanard 4 pin relay 30 batt 86 ignition still live while cranking 85 from ECU pin3 87 fuel rail and pump.
Its like a rats nest the wiring harness
O2 sensor been cut out
ICM only has 4wires to it neg and pos from coil, earth and hall signal the other 2 hall wires run to ECU. removed the boot and the hall signal and neg to coil cut and joined together bypassing the ICM.
running an early mk1 fusebox so iv found the power feeds i need and just tapped into them at the min and fitted 2 relays.
Im looking to get it started to check the engine then making myself a new loome as i want to hide as much wiring as poss.
But with me having limited knowledge of engine set up and how things work finding it a little tricky.

Hi Mark, you have the same problem as I had with my G60.

Check out this post http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?275625-g60-conversion-fuel-pump-running-constantly-when-ignition-first-turned-on

John helped me out big style with my conversion

Oh but I guess yours isnt cranking then. Mine was working but the pump would constantly run. The fix in the link is for the pump to prime then stop.

It cranks iv got power to all plugs apart from the pulsed earth to the fuel rail will check that post out now thanks for the reply.

Oh in that case look at my thread plus mine would crank and not start because I got fuel supply and return wrong way round 

Worth a check

Just read through it im powering my ecu with a live thats comes live with key in position one that stays live when cranking. But according to the post that is wrong the ecu should only get power when cranking if iv read it correctly? Think i need to read it again haha theres two pictures on the internet showing two ways for the fuel pipes just to complicate things i just want to hear it run and get that supercharger whistling away    

You'll get there

I was really worried when
my engine wouldn't start.

It's just a process of elimination.

Sounds like you're almost there.

If you do check the fuel lines be careful, when I un did the fuel pressure regulator the pressure was immense.

Make sure you have plenty of rag around to stop fuel going everywhere. 

Thanks for the vote of confidence ha ha just keep picking everyones brains about it and learn as much as i can thanks for the replys much appreciated.

you say you have an ignition control module? by that you mean the 7 pin thing in the scuttle? if so someone has made a fail there the G60 shouldn't have one. also cutting out the lambda is another fail…

it sounds to me like someone may have (badly) converted it from a normal digifant loom?

fuel relay wiring sounds ok as the earth is switched from the ecu pin 3 same as it would be from factory which is good news, bad news is that pretty much confirms the ecu has burnt out, but check you only have power when cranking on the ignition to ECU pin 1 you may have the same problem as Rich! With the main ecu power this should be live both with ignition and cranking, to pin 14.

whats the part number on that ecu just to check its actually a G60 one?

check my signature link, full corrado G60 wiring diagram in there corpgecu.pdf

Iv just binned my over time off as was dead at work and raced home on my bike so will have a play with it now I know Ecu pin 1 is getting ignition live and stays live while cranking not cranking live so will start there. 
The 5 pin relay used to power the Ecu Iv fitted a 4 pin as I don't have wire 23 from Ecu Would this cause a problem?
I know the wiring is shocking but my aim is to get it running so I know all is good then make a loome. 

no need to worry about pin 23, only used on some models and does nothing except keep the ecu relay powered up for a few seconds after you switch off the engine

One less thing to worry about haha well Iv wired Ecu pin 1 into starter cranking live
pin 14 Ecu has ignition live there also while cranking 
Fuel pump now primes then stops
Ecu number is
037 906 022 DP just need to see if power to injectors

You want to see the smile on my face she runs!!!!!!
well lumpy and loud it's got no exhaust on but she runs thanks for the help guys shure I will need more advice to come tho special thanks to rubjonny couldn't of done it with out you 

sorted, and that ECU is a G60 one

So do you think I need to wire lamda sensor back in or will it be fine as is and the lil 7 pin thing in the scuttle I can live without? Thanks again for the help

yep wire it in, will never be 100% without one