Mk1 Clipper cabrio - 2.0 16v ABF conversion

Exhaust update too:
I've spent the last two days on the web and on the phone, all the conversion manifolds seem to be purely for LHD golfs and no one will guarantee they miss the gear linkage (020 rod) or not melt the rack gaiter.

Supersprint: Designed for LHD & cant comment on rod change
Dub Power, helpful, but only have their KR version and cant comment on linkage
Storm: As per dub power
TA Technix: LHD and can't comment on gear linkage
Ashley: KR only

I'm getting my car to a chap in Lancashire (edit) who shall manufacture me one bespoke that wont set my steering on fire, wont foul the roll bar, linkage or chassis. He reckons c£300 in 304 stainless.

If you want him to make two, now's your chance…  mine too started life as a clipper.  

oh, mine too is an ABF 2.0 16V that is just about to get an 020 box fitted.

The car will be going to Lancashire for the exhaust!!!!!

if you want a copy manifold let me know and I'll keep you updated to the works I'm getting done.  (and where) 

Hi Craigt, How did your exhaust bloke get on in the end? could i also ask you what you did for your fueling system?

I ended up using Meerkat exhausts in Kilbirnie, but the process was rather eye opening when I did start finding people that could assist with the manufacture, it turned out to be several.  

The classic car market is where all these guys hide.  I genuinely had three decent choices, all of whom I'd heard good things about.  Glasgow, Fife and Ayrshire as this was where I was looking.  i did do a full report on this site (but cant find it) http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=modifications-and_2%2Fabf-2-0l-16v-conversion

check the link above, I'm happy with results. cost me £480 cash.

Fuel system was new tank and full ABF management system, with the ABF standard injection set up.

Ill see if I can find the list of suppliers that I found. What I did note was nobody could offer a manifold off the shelf for this conversion.  hope this helps.

http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&type=misc&id=specialist%2Fmodifications-and_2%2Fabf-conversion-finished&start=20

here's the other link

I done the same on pistonheads too

Ok so, I am now ready to start gathering parts together to get cracking with this conversion. The only thing that has me worried is the wiring. Even if i was to have the loom spliced for me, what else would i be expecting considering the original is a carb? I presume the wiring for the lift pump/ pump isn't as simply as just powering the things!? Thanks for all the help so far, its been so useful 

ask the guy doing your loom to add a fuel pump power pin for you, if they know what they're doing this wont be a problem and will actually make their life a little easier if they plan to make the loom like how VW would have done it

the mk1 fuel pump power comes from pin E/14, what they would need to do is supply you with a large pin to fit this socket with 2 wires out of it, one for the fuel pump and the other ending in a male spade.

Then you would splice your pump power to this and plug the female spade from the lambda probe power into the spade, job done  

apart from that all the wiring that needs modifying is in the engine loom, everything else stays as is. If you wanted to add the mfa cluster then a bit more loom would be required otherwise sorted

Thanks RJ, dik-van-dub is going to be doing the loom for me and has said he can certainly help with that. I'm feeling reasonably confident in the whole thing now but i'm sure there will be plenty of questions along the way.  

Ok things are starting to move    I've now got the engine, ecu and wiring harness. Should have the lifter pump, reservoir and fuel pump in the next week.

Just trying to sort out the mk2 brake servo and ignition coil. Question: is it just the coil and tci unit that I need?

aye, you need either late mk1 coil or mk2 golf (pin style spark plug lead fitting) and any mk1/2 tci unit. if you use a mk1 golf one just make sure it includes the fat alloy heat sink, mk2 ones have this glued on so cant easily be split

Thanks RJ, I think I've got the right coil so just need the tci unit. I've hopefully made a good start with the wiring but would appreciate you/ anyone casting their eye over what I've got so far..

F/1- Red/Black - Starter motor pin 50   - Use mk1's

 

F/3 - Blue - Alternator pin D+ - bin and use mk1's in lighting loom

 

F/5 - Red - ECU pin 7 Starter feed - C/18


F/6 - Black/Red   - Reverse light switch pin 2   - bin and use mk1's in lighting loom

F/7 - Black/Blue - Reverse light switch pin 1 - bin and use mk1's in lighting loom

F/8 - Brown - Lambda probe pin 2 - Earth?

G1/3 - Yellow/Blue - ECU pin 6, Fuel pump earth trigger - D13

G1/4 - Black - Ignition coil pin 3 (+ve)? Also runs to T28/5 - bin and use mk1's?


G1/7 - Black/White - ECU pin 9 - ECU relay pin 86a

G1/8 - Red/White - Lambda probe pin 1 - Fuel pump feed (E/14?)

G1/10 - Black/Yellow   - ECU pin 23 - ECU relay pin 87

G1/11 - White/Blue - Vehicle speed sensor, T28/6 - Not needed!!

G1/12 - Green/White    - ECU pin 22, rev counter    Not needed?

G2/1 - Green/Black - Oil temp sensor, T28/7    Not needed!!

G2/3 - Yellow/Red - Coolant temp sensor, T28/27 - D/29

G2/4 - Black - ECU pin 38 - D/7 or D/2

G2/10 - Yellow   - High oil pressure warning switch -D/21

G2/11 - Blue/Black - Low oil pressure warning switch - D/1

Z1 - Red - Fuel injector power - E/14

Tv14 - Grey/White - Self diagnostics - vagcom port or imob box

T68/8 - Green/Red - Coil pin 2 - TCI unit pin 6

Not entirely sure what goes on with relays and fuses. I know I'll need a no.30 for the ecu but I'm a little confused with the fuel pump relay and what not. I'll post a pic of my fusebox layout as it is. Thanks for any help, can't wait to get this done.

keep the mk3 alternator blue wire and use it to run from the mk3 alternator loom plug to your spade on the mk1 harness (nice clippy plug)

lambda brown wants earthing yup

g1/4 wires can both be ignored, the t28 wire is just for the speedo sensor only needed for mk3+ dash

g1/12 only required for mk3+ dash

Z/1 can go into the big spade N, just cut the locking tab off it. or e/14

ecu relay is a 30, as well as the 2 wires above you need a thick perm live to pin 30 on relay from spade P, an ignition live to d/2 or d/7 on pin 86 plus an earth to pin 85

fuel relay you need a 67, 80 or 167 and pop it into socket 2 on fusebox. Run 2 wires to E/14 one for the fuel pump and the other with a male spade on it, then ut a female spade on the lambda and plug it into this. All factory styleee

Thanks again RJ. This is the layout I currently have for my fusebox. As you can see I have a no. 1 relay in position two. Would I just swap this out for the correct fuel pump relay or would this stop what ever the no. 1 relay is doing from functioning properly? 

#1 is for carb heater, so you would bin that

61 relay base above the fusebox will be ideal to reuse for your ecu relay, its the decelleration cut-off for the carb which again will be binned

You truly deserve that local hero status and more 👍🏼 would I be safe in presuming I could power the lift pump in the same manner? I haven't got the loom for it, just the plug, so was going to make up my own. 

yeah you power your lifter pump off the same feed as the main pump

Am I right in saying the small pipe on the left and the big one on the right can be bunged up? The other is for the ecu? If so what can I use to bung them? Thanks 'again'

both nipples on thrttle body can be blanked, the one on the inlet is for the ECU

Thanks Jonny, glad I checked that. Would you be able to tell me if this is the right tci unit I'll be needing please. It's already fitted in the car so might just be wishful thinking. 

yarp that'll do you fine