MFA oil buzzer issue

I'm new to mk1 golf scene so have joined a bristol group. My other option might be to find someone with working clocks and try them in. Any help guys n gals? J

I'm near Bristol, but unfortunately don't have a working oil pressure board either!

I have been through the earths on the dash though and have found all of them. If you want to know where they are, look at the no oil pressure light thread.

http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=technical%2Felectrics_2%2Fno-oil-pressure-light
 

Morning Sclemow, couldn't get link to work but my problem is with non mfa clocks everything works but with mfa clocks no high beam and flashing oil light and buzzer. I also need ambient air temp sender as missing. Fed up with driving around with dash in bits so all buttoned up for now. Concentrating on other bits. Was out yesterday and drive shaft came off! Managed to bolt back on to get car home, worried other bits might be loose. Car was SORN for 7 years before I bought off eBay don't know what else is loose!

Aaaaaaaaaaaggggggghhhhhh!!!!! Just tried 3rd lot of l shaped circuit board and still buzzing and red flashy light over 2k!!!!
And still no high beam warning light!!!?! Either all the l circuit boards I have are fubar, or its not the board!
Ok so I have bought yet more clocks to try in. I have the Bristol meet coming up friday I have not been before maybe someone
can help there. It might be an idea if i can try a set of clocks that is known to work!
Can anyone tell me if some of the MFA wires are not connected would this be a factor? For example I have not wired in the oil
temp to MFA as have it on vdi clocks at the monument and don't know if i can split the signal or need another sender dedicated
to the MFA (i suspect so) And I have no ambient air sensor fitted as I guess it was removed by previous owner of JPP660Y who
i cannot get hold of. Anyone got a sender? Anyone know if this is a factor?
Peeeed off. J
 

Have you checked that the high pressure oil pressure switch on the top of the oil filter housing isn't knackered?

If that is permanently connected to ground then any of the working oil pressure boards in the clock will flash the light and sound the buzzer above 2k rpm.

Hmmm, I replaced the senders with new ones. Perhaps they are at fault too, whats the best way to test? Bulb between sender and battery? Fire up the engine and see if it lights up or goes out?
J

Oh yeah and the car is fitted with a 16v kr
 

try switching the oil pressure wires over, and make sure they're both the right spec. you should have a blue or brown one which is 0.24 or 0.3bar, and a white one which is 1.8bar. both should be on the filter housing in a 16v.

originally the 0.3bar switch would have a yellow wire and the 1.8bar would be blue/black, but if it has a mk2 loom in there the wire colours may be swapped. the mfa oil temp should be green/black and is to a small white sensor on the rear of the head.

oh and only go by colour if the switches are genuine, if pattern check the pressure rating. or better yet bin and buy new genuine.

one thing to check is the wiring near the fusebox, look for any spade connections. the mfa dash loom should have a male spade for the dash and mfa stalk earth with brown and brown/white wires in, which then plugs into a brown/white on the engine loom which then runs off to the side of the head. also there may be a green/black or yellow male spade on the dash loom which plugs into a matching wire on the engien loom.

note early gti looms had the green/black mfa oil temp wire through the fusebox and the yellow oil pressure wire on a spare spade, later mk1 and mk2 these 2 wires are swapped. this could be a potential reason for the mix up if it has an early mk1 dash loom and later type engine loom…

Ok update time, I have tried the switch of the oil sensor wires no joy there. New second hand clocks have arrived from ebay. This is now set number 4. High beam light works on these, however the oil light does not come on with the ignition. But neither does it go off or flash over 2000 rpm!?!
My everyday clocks are very basic , no MFA as below but have high beam light and a working oil light which comes on with ignition and goes off with engine start.

So then I got these clocks with an MFA I can scroll through. Ok so no oil temp as its in my cod and no air temp as no sensor and no mpg. But it scrolls!
No oil light with ignition and no high beam indicator. The horror over 2000 rpm buzzzzzzz and flashing light.

 

do the ones without a working oil light definitely have the pressure PCB inside he speedo?

the one with non-functioning main beam check the bulb, its a normal 12v bulb with a gel cover on

 This is the back of basic clocks

This is new clocks with buzzer no high beam and flashing red light.



I have dismantled other spare clocks and tried in 3 different  L shaped boards and still no oil light on ignition
and buzzer on 2k. No main beam blue light but if i put 9v battery across the terminals it lights up.

So I bought some more off ebay…..



Ok have main beam, have scroll through MFA but do not have red-light on ignition but also do not have buzzer or flashing lights at 2k?
Will take them apart later. Arrrghhhh

 

try swapping the 2 oil pressure switch wires over with the gti clock that have the buzzer warn and no ignition light, also check the new ones have the pressure pcb in

Hiya rubjonny, I thought I had tried swapping the oil sensors over with no joy when you suggested before. Will try with new clocks also old clocks. Then will take new clock apart and see if pcb inside. If not thats why they sold them on ebay! And I will try in systematically the 3 pcb boards I have and hope that at least one of them is good. Maybe all are shot? In that case where can I get one which works?


Oh yeah, where is the mfa switch on my gearbox or is there not one?

On a pre '83 GTI tin top (and presumably cabrios) the main beam will be a yellow LED so won't be a duff 12v bulb with coloured cover liker later Cabrio clocks. You seem to be using a mixture of LED and filament main beam indicator dashes. 

OK I would take a step back from this problem and break it down into a few sections.

1) Confirm that BOTH oil pressure switches are actually working at the correct pressures and opening and closing when they should with a multimeter.

As far as I know, with the engine off the Lower pressure sensor (0.3 bar) should be CLOSED i.e earthed and with the engine running this should be OPEN i.e no earth on the pin.
The other sensor operates the other way round and is normally OPEN with the engine off and closes at 1.8 bar so I would test both of these sensors for the correct operation and you will also then definitely know which is which beyond a shadow of a doubt.

2) Test the cars wiring, so connect up both oil pressure sensors and then repeat the same test as above on the pins on the dashboard connector for the two oil pressure senders to make sure their signals are actually getting as far as the dash wiring - you will then know two things for absolute certain - that the sensors and the cars wiring for them are both OK.

3) I would also at this point test the resistance between the earthing wire for the clocks and the engine to make sure there is no issue with the earth and the sensors are going to read correctly to the clocks - if there's too much resistance then the clocks might not actually get a signal from the sensors

4) Also make sure the clocks are getting a healthy 12v supply (test the voltage coming in against the earth)

You will then know

1. your clocks are getting a good power supply
2. You have a good earth between your engine and your clocks
3. You have the sensor readings coming in correctly at the dash connector
4. The sensors are definitely wired up the right way round.

You then know for absolute certain that you need to concentrate on the clocks. However with the number of units you've tried, I really suspect that there's another issue somewhere with wiring or sensors or something else as you are getting bizarre results which don't make a lot of sense to me.

Mike.

your gearbox is the wrong one for the early tyope MFA cluster I'm afraid, it only has the 2 pin reverse switch rather than the multi-pin unit required for the mpg gauge and shift light to work

on my cab I just fitted later type cabrio clocks without the mpg/shift light to get around that problem. it does require the later mfa stalk and wiring from it to the 2 pin plug on the back of the cluster

I'm pretty sure the yellow main beam warning light is still a normal bulb, I'm 99.5% sure mine was blown and I had to replace it

I was going to post something very similar to Mike, however he has already covered it.

I would also add, measure the voltage at the low pressure oil sensor with the ignition on but engine off. This should be 12v. If you don't have 12v here then trace it under the dash by the fusebox. You will find a spade connector (thanks John!) here on the yellow wire. if there is 12v here then there is an issue in the engine loom to sensor, if not trace it back to the clocks and check for 12v here.

I found that the clocks aren't putting out 12v in my case so need to replace the L-shaped board.

John, you don't have a spare set of clocks in bits that you would be prepared to sell the oil pressure board from do you?

sorry all my mk1 bits went years ago when I sold the cab! I had 3 sets of clocks at one time so this is why i cant remember which one had the blown bulb for the main beam

No problem, it was worth asking