Buddy MK1

Very nice looking rear beam, like new  

Will be doing my rear beam soon, not looking forward to the arb clamps   

Matt

I had a productive Saturday and managed to finally get the mk1 off the axle stands and back on four wheels. Actually looks like a car again!

 

 

 

My plan for this week is to try and get the rest of the bay done and in primer, then I can start to get the engine and gearbox in ready for the exhaust to be made.

Even when not assembled, your car looks great on the G60 wheels  

Matt

For the first time in a good 10 months, I pushed the mk1 out of the unit and gave him a good dust down. As I normally work on it in the evenings after work I am normally working by flood light, so it was nice to see it in the day light again. To make the most of the daylight I thought I would pop the RSs back on and try and make my mind up as to if I wasnt to extend the arches slightly or get the wheels machined down a little: (sorry about the mix in the quality of the photos)

 

 

i like how wide they are on the back  

Want those wheels  

thats going to look the nuts once on the road

Woah, I thought it looked good on the g60 steels, but looks incredible on the bbs alloys. Gonna look incredible when finished.  

Matt

Lovely looking car, I'm going to be watching this build, what colour is it?
Its unique thats for sure

Thanks guys. The paint code is L94F - Anthrazit Metallic

Had another productive evening on the mk1 last night. Bolted the gearbox on to the engine and dropped it into place. Now I can start to plan pipe and wiring routes.

 

awesome car bro! what did you use to strip the paint off the bbs centers?

Brilliant work mate!! Keep it up!

Engines looking sweet in its new home  

Shame engines need pipes and wires, look so nice without them!  

Good work so far! Looking forward to following this

Thanks guys.

I initially used NitroMors on the centers then I put them into an acid bath.

I managed to get a little bit more done last night. I had to modify the center support on the front panel so I could fit the front mount between the radiator and the front panel.





I think iv managed to get my head around pipe routes. The downpipe is going to be tricky given the direction the exhaust exits. A couple of people have suggested looking at a passat manifold and turbo or tfsi setup.



 

Spent yesterday starting to address the loom. There are a couple of plugs which are damaged and will need to be replaced.

 

 

I also took a trip down to the scrappy and picked up an accelerator pedal. Will need to make up a bracket so I can attach the the pedal to the bulkhead.

 

 

I also found this sorry looking fella in the scrappy

 

I sent my steering column and pedals off to HRP Ltd to have it modified so I could run master cylinders under the dash. That arrived on friday so I spent sunday getting it in place. I also picked up some master cylinders, reservoir pots and some extension lines from Rally Design.

 

 

I think its fair to say I need a new dipstick lol

Dipstick Tube:
http://www.awesomegti.com/parts/engine/engine-styling/aluminium-dipstick-tube-extension-to-replace-orange-06a103663b

Dipstick:
http://www.awesomegti.com/parts/engine/engine-styling/aluminium-dipstick-replacement-for-oem-027115611c

Its £100 but you know it makes sense!  The down pipe is not an issue with the K03 mate, mine does just touch my steering rack boot, but when its wrapped in heat wrap its not an issue, (I've got 3.0" turbo back too) mines not melted or cracked in anyway. I would go the opposite way with the boost pipe to the intercooler, have a flick through my thread (Click on the link in my signature, go to about page 6 at a guess…), go behind the TIP. The Forge TIP you have looks nice, but it's not really needed IMO you only need two outlets on it for the DV (Standard 25mm) and for the N75. I made my own TIP which meant I could easily run everything across the back of the bay. You also have no servo like me so the route will be easy I'm sure.

I also have the same problems with my KW coilies, I got over it by winding the eccentric camber bolts out as far as they would go, I had it tracked by a proper computerised laser tracker and it was spot on for camber, I think the drop makes up for the angle of the wheel as the wishbone gets more horizontal the top of the wheel gets closer to the strut, if you wind the eccentric bolt out to push the hub away as much as possible it counteracts the drop and keeps everything in line. If that makes any sense…

Hope that helps, wheels look mint, I want bigger dishes on mine at the rear, no stretch for me, I have just ordered a new turbo though, aiming for 260bhp, I didn't fancy any more than that as the car is so light it will spin the wheels the whole time, (It does with 150bhp!) tyres aren't cheap haha

Awesome project buddy, can you run the 1.8 non turbo cam cover ok with out any issues? Looks super clean and better then the 1.8T!  

How much for a dipstick and tube.            

Lovely project matey though. Best of luck with it. Keep us posted.

Smudger