Rallye
Posted
Settled In
Great job yomp! Your attention to detail is second to none. A mk2 rallye is definitely a car worthy of a full nut and bolt restoration, looking forward to the end product
Posted
Local Hero
cheers guys! feels like I'm making a bit of progress now.
Another 2 holes disappeared today!!
Another 2 holes disappeared today!!
Posted
Local Hero
Crikey, I thought Mk2s, esp later ones, were much more rot resistant?
Looks like a 70s MK1 that's lived by the sea for too long.
Looks like a 70s MK1 that's lived by the sea for too long.
1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet
The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet
The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.
Posted
Local Hero
Early-1800 said
Crikey, I thought Mk2s, esp later ones, were much more rot resistant?
This car certainly doesn't have the wax coating that our series 2 MK1's have.
Rallye sills are prone to rotting.
This particular one lived on a farm all its life before being laid up in a barn for 7 years The rear chassis legs were full of mud.
Posted
Local Hero
Got the back panel cut and tacked today.
Posted
Moderator
Excellent work mate, looking good.
Posted
Local Hero
Finished the welding and leaded the joint.
Posted
Old Timer
like the wooly hat mate
problem is with the welding masks they never fit over your wooly hat so it's either arch eye or cold head
problem is with the welding masks they never fit over your wooly hat so it's either arch eye or cold head
Last edit: by jellybelly
Posted
Local Hero
I went to take some pics of my rear panel for you this morning
Yomp
as promised, (better late than never!!) However, got under the car and realised with the big bumper attached you can't really see anything.
I can tell you that the lower edge is the same as yours, if that's any help?! lol
I can tell you that the lower edge is the same as yours, if that's any help?! lol
Andy
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
Posted
Local Hero
No worries Andy. Its only to satisfy my "why?" question.
Posted
Old Timer
What is "leading a joint"?
Matt
Matt
Posted
Local Hero
pazwaa said
What is "leading a joint"?
Matt
Lead as in the metal.
Its an old method of building up a body panel similar to modern day fillers.
The beauty of it is it seals the joint and is more flexible than the steel its on so it doesn't crack.
Loads on youtube……..
Lead Loading
Posted
Old Timer
Cheers, good to learn something new
Do you sand/grind it smooth or do you put a skim of filler over it?
Do you sand/grind it smooth or do you put a skim of filler over it?
Posted
Local Hero
File it with body files which have course teeth. The swarf that comes off the file is large and heavy so drops to the ground. Sanding it makes it air born - not so healthy!
It'll get a light skim of stopper to sort any slight imperfections.
Its much more reliable than just filling but does come with the obvious hazzards.
It doesn't suit large flat panels so well due to the heat you have to put into the panel to get it to flow.
It'll get a light skim of stopper to sort any slight imperfections.
Its much more reliable than just filling but does come with the obvious hazzards.
It doesn't suit large flat panels so well due to the heat you have to put into the panel to get it to flow.
Posted
Local Hero
Turned my attention to the transfer box today as I should have the new gear set arriving soon.
I've managed to find the technical information for setting all the bearing pre loads and back lashes but there's an awful lot of VW special tools used in rebuilding it.
Some home made improvisations are going to be required…..
puller..
Now the roller bearing is out the damage to the needle rollers is more visible..
I've managed to find the technical information for setting all the bearing pre loads and back lashes but there's an awful lot of VW special tools used in rebuilding it.
Some home made improvisations are going to be required…..
puller..
Now the roller bearing is out the damage to the needle rollers is more visible..
Posted
Local Hero
That is a big list of tools!!
You should stick this up on MK2 forum too - they'd love it over there.
You should stick this up on MK2 forum too - they'd love it over there.
Andy
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
Posted
Old Timer
Nice work Yomp
I found this site a while ago that list a lot of vw tools buy there number, most are expensive but the images may help you figure out what they look like http://www.dieselkontor.de
I found this site a while ago that list a lot of vw tools buy there number, most are expensive but the images may help you figure out what they look like http://www.dieselkontor.de
Posted
Moderator
Thought I had my work cut out lol
Posted
Local Hero
The new bevel gears turned up yesterday but I have a dilema.
On the bevel gear a number is etched by the manufacturers during testing. This number relates to the location of one gear against the centre line of the other gear to give optimum running quietness.
These are the numbers etched on the original gears…….
The "25" is to identify the paired gears.
The "33" is to identify the measurement that one gear runs in relation to the other gear 33 meaning 0.33mm
On the new gears I have this:
Now is this "119" or "611"? If its 119 then its written upside down compared to the old gear. this number is however only to match the paired gears.
The important number is this:
Which to me reads "50" (0.5mm). The etch after the 50 is just an initial I think.
Now if I read it as a 50 then its etched up the other way to the original gear.
However it could also be read a "09" meaning 0.09mm which is a completely different setting.
What do you think?!
On the bevel gear a number is etched by the manufacturers during testing. This number relates to the location of one gear against the centre line of the other gear to give optimum running quietness.
These are the numbers etched on the original gears…….
The "25" is to identify the paired gears.
The "33" is to identify the measurement that one gear runs in relation to the other gear 33 meaning 0.33mm
On the new gears I have this:
Now is this "119" or "611"? If its 119 then its written upside down compared to the old gear. this number is however only to match the paired gears.
The important number is this:
Which to me reads "50" (0.5mm). The etch after the 50 is just an initial I think.
Now if I read it as a 50 then its etched up the other way to the original gear.
However it could also be read a "09" meaning 0.09mm which is a completely different setting.
What do you think?!
Posted
Local Hero
I would agree 50 and initials, can you check with supplier or are they not the ones that marked it?
Or can you make the measurement or is that a daft question??
Or can you make the measurement or is that a daft question??
Andy
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/
1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si
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