Replacement DX won't work

Turns out my mate had mutalated the dizzy 3pin to fit….which it didn't. Tried by turning ignition on and plugging pin into my original dizzy and the fuel pump went. Swapped dizzys and put dizzy where it should go but won't start up. Gonna line dizzy up where old one was to see if it fires then

so long as the HT leads are going to the right cylinders in the firing order it should fire. 1 -3 -4 -2 is the correct order cylinder 1 being the furthest left by the pulleys then working right 2,3,4.


failing that you will have to start from the begining with timing, checking its all ok and the valves are in the right place when the marks are lined up.

There is a good how to on here if you search for it.

No such luck just a loud bang
 :-(

I don't think it matters what position the dizzy is in as long as the rotor arm is pointing to no.1 lead when at tdc on the cam pulley and crank pulley timing mark is set. Then put your leads in firing order 1342 clockwise. Sorry if I,m telling you how to suck eggs. You could always pull dizzy out and turn around when timing marks are set if you're not happy with the position. Also I agree with Rubjonny that the rotor arm looks poor in the picture, check dizzy cap also.

No worries. Put my new dizzy cap and rotor on to be sure. It doesn't want to fire despite fuel and spark most bizarre

that's right its not where the dizzy points as such that's important just the fact that it points to a lead on the dizzy at TDC.

That lead is then connected to cylinder 1

the rotor arm turns clockwise (right) so the next lead round goes to cylinder 3 then cylinder 4 then 2.

that should get it started provided all is ok with the timing marks and the engine is correctly at TDC.

Got it to fire now but it's dies after about 5 seconds

all the base idle and co settings will be out of whack now, will it stay running when revved? does fuel pump run on for a few seconds after it cuts out (suggesting ignition fault rather than fuel)

Yeah it'll stay running when revved and fuel pump whines once its died

ok sounds liek you need to get it hot then reset base idle and co. wind idle screw out a bit to keep it running

Thanks all. I do have a constant buzzer though with flashing oil light

Is the engine ticking? 

Have you tried grounding the wire that goes to the high pressure sensor? 

Is the earth wire on the rocker cover??

if it buzzes at idle summat up with the clocks but as said check the switch wiring.

you should have a white 1.8 bar switch in the filter housing, and a brown/blue switch in the side of the head.

one thing, how long has engine been sat, and was it drained of oil?

Well after a while the buzzer went off today whilst I had an attempt at an MOT.  the coolant light stayed on though! Unfortunately no matter what I tired with the idle and co adjustment it wouldn't pass

For the setup you can either take it to someone for a tune up or buy a strobe light £20ish online.

You need to setup the dynamic timing when the engine is warm then adjust the mixture and Idle once you know the timing is correct.  Good online tutorials if you search google.

Your coolant light could just be an airlock or faulty sensor if you try bridging the connector wires that should tell you if the sensor is faulty or if its a wiring issue.