DX engine wont start - updated with new findings

Ok. All wiring has been checked, double checked and triple checked. They're fine.
Fuel pump works a treat.
Fuel lines correctly plumbed to filter and from distributer.
Fuel is comming through filter and the hose to distributer.
Injector lines and warm up lines installed correctly.

After trying to crank theres no fuel on the injector lines coming from the distrubutor (took one out and no fuel pumps out)

Wiring is fine. Spark where there should be one.

Distributer is from original car which drove into the garage 18mths ago

Birtymeek said

Ok. All wiring has been checked, double checked and triple checked. They're fine.
Fuel pump works a treat.
Fuel lines correctly plumbed to filter and from distributer.
Fuel is comming through filter and the hose to distributer.
Injector lines and warm up lines installed correctly.

After trying to crank theres no fuel on the injector lines coming from the distrubutor (took one out and no fuel pumps out)

Wiring is fine. Spark where there should be one.

Distributer is from original car which drove into the garage 18mths ago

Is this the first time you have tried to start the car since a rebuild or major work, or is this a car that was running fine until recently? Also when you say fuel lines correctly plumbed to filter and from "distributer", I assume you mean the metering head?

If I have this right from your post, then you need to carry out the injector test that used to be in the Technical section on the web site - darned if I can find it at the moment, but I'm sure someone else will be along soon to tell you where to find it. The quick answer is that you need to disconnect the coil and earth it, then pull all four injectors out and place them into clear bottles so that you can see the spray pattern and also volume dispensed. To get the fuel to flow, you need to lift the sensor plate in the metering head, whilst the fuel pump is running - the guide tells you how to do this by bridging two of the terminals in the fuse box once the fule pump relay is removed. It's all also in the Haynes manual. Not until you lift the sensor plate will you see any fule coming from the injectors. You need to confirm if you are genuinely not getting fuel through or whether you haven't yet tested them as described above. It can be very confusing & I thought I had the same problem at one time with mine - although it turned out to be the fifth injector!

Hope this helps a little & good luck.

It is the first time ive tried to start the car since Ive rebuilt the car.  Engine wise I've replaced all gaskets and thats about it.

I do mean the metering head.

All of this worked prior to the car being stripped down and the metering head has not been fiddled with which is why I struggle to understand its behaviour.

OK, would be worth checking that the sensor plate moves up and down without sticking. A stuck sensor plate has been the cause of many non-starting engines. A clean up with some carb cleaner works well. Also make sure that the valve that the sensor plate moves is free in the fuel distribution body.

Ok mate I'll give it a try but first I've got to re-time the damn thing as its knocked itself out.  Re-timed it today and made sure belt was tensioned but two turns and the bloody thing was out again. It'll have to wait till after work tomorrow when I have more patience  

Well for now Ive got to try and get the thing turning over again.  It stopped turning over cleanly and basically only turns part way.  Trying to turn by hand and its really stiff in places but OK in others.  Fearing bent valves due to timing being out and 275 cam in, I've stripped the head to check.  They are OK  
All valves open and close nicely.
Bottom end turns nicely.
Checked flywheel teeth where the starter motor goes and they are all there and nothing looking unusual.

I would suspect the battery if it wasn't new and it charged nicely.

Any ideas?

it will be stiff if you crank it by hand with plugs in, as you'rte fighting compression. take all the plugs out and try it should turn over easier. there will be stiff spots where the cam is pressing the springs but it shouldnt be too bad. maybe double check you bought the right type of cam for the head as hydro differ to solid. if its very high spec cam you may need to change valve springs, but needs uber lift lobes for that to be an issue

For now I've removed the cam and put original one back on.  The cam I got was a TSR 275 cam so I didn't think it would be too harsh

yeah im not convinced it woas that just somethign to consider, but if its still doign it on old cam then move on to other things! could be startwer is packing in, or battery cables want cleanign/replacing

Hmm.  Battery wiring new and all earths checked.  Also, anticipating starter motor issues, I borrowed two others which definitely work off a mate.  Still nothing  
Getting more than a little fed up with the car now

I'd be interested to see what the outcome on this is because before I stripped my head I was having no compression on start up then it would come back then go again  , everyone who went on the German road trip was baffled by this.

I see.  Sounds similar I think.  Keep noseying cos I get my new head gasket and head bolts tomorrow so I'll be able to get going again.  Decided to get another cam belt incase that's stretched out of shape or anything

Oh, forgot to mention folks, in relation to the original fuel issue, when stripping down I found that the 5th injector was getting fuel, just not 1 to 4 injector

So to update on the current state of play. 
Engine was turning over nicely but no fuel from injectors 1-4 but fuel to 5th. Plate checked and moves nice a free.
Like i say engine was working but now only does partial turn.
Valves are not bent (took head off and checked)
Teeth on flywheel for starter are all there and no seen movement in flywheel
With spark plugs out engine turns by hand nicely
Cant hear fuel pump anymore but all fuses are fine
Another new battery tried and still no luck
3 starter motors tried and same result
Putting starters to battery, they spit out starter gear violently but dont spin?
12v + shown on switched live for starter when ignition turned

Any ideas

Ginner said

everyone who went on the German road trip was baffled by this.

No they weren't, they just laughed!!!  

   

Do you know why the original cam timing had"knocked itself out by a couple of teeth" that didn't sound right to me when I read the thread.
Are you saying the engine cranks half turn but then locks up? Does it spin over ok without the plugs in on the starter?
Have you tried using a jump lead as an earth lead from the block direct to the battery to bypass the cars own earth leads?
If you have fuel at the 5th injector but not the others then I would losen one of the injector pipes on top of the metering head and with the fuel pump running (by frigging the relay) lift up the flap on the metering head and you should get fuel coming out of the loosened pipe.

Dano said

Ginner said

everyone who went on the German road trip was baffled by this.

No they weren't, they just laughed!!!  

   

Cheers Dan I was keeping that quiet! !!!  

checking it out on youtube was how i sussed mine , that was before i read that guide "k jet made easy" ,

Yomp said

Do you know why the original cam timing had"knocked itself out by a couple of teeth" that didn't sound right to me when I read the thread.
Are you saying the engine cranks half turn but then locks up? Does it spin over ok without the plugs in on the starter?
Have you tried using a jump lead as an earth lead from the block direct to the battery to bypass the cars own earth leads?
If you have fuel at the 5th injector but not the others then I would losen one of the injector pipes on top of the metering head and with the fuel pump running (by frigging the relay) lift up the flap on the metering head and you should get fuel coming out of the loosened pipe.

I can only assume that the timing came out because the belt was too loose.  But the timing is all sorted and the belt perfectly tensioned
Yes the engine only does a part turn then stops.
Not tried turning over on starter without plugs in so will do that today
Not tried a jump lead from block to battery so if I can find one then I'll give it a try.  Cant see that doing it though considering that it was turning recently with all wiring and earths in place
I'll try that with the metering head but I need to figure why the fuel pump is no longer active first

The fuel pump relay may kick infor  a couple of seconds when the ignition is first put on. I say may as some do and some dont.
It won't pump again until the engine is cranking and the fuel pump relay is receiving a pulse from the dizzy. If your engines not turning over then you won't be getting a pulse to the pump relay.

See if it spins without the plugs in and let us know.

Regards the starters they are pre-engage so will throw out the cog before they turn.