2.0 abf problem

hi all….
can anyone shed some light for me..??
fitted engine tried starting today and it wont run.
plug into vag com and it's giving immobiliser fault..
my question is does anyone know how to defeat immobiliser and if so how too..
cheers
adrian

First of all I take it the car turns over?

If your brought the complete conversion (Engine, GB, ECU, Loom & Key) then the transponder from the original key is matched to the ECU with a SKC code that mobilises the car. Therefore its just a case of duplicating the code form the original key into a blank transponder and getting a blade to match your mk1, which can either be very simple or very tricky depending on how well you know the person cutting the key (proof of vehicle ownership etc) most mechanics "know a guy" that will be able to match keys without all or any documents. OR some people glue the transponder to the receiver in the ECU that leaves the car mobilised all of the time.

If you didn't buy the job lot things can get a little more difficult. VagCom/VCDS removed the function from their software that allowed you to withdraw the SKC information from the ECU to reduce vehicle thefts. Older versions of VagCom with 'Dumb' interfaces (not connected to the internet) may be able to withdraw the SKC from the ECU, but are hard to come by as many garages upgrade their software meaning they need new interfaces. Its basically if you know the SKC code of the ECU you can get a key matched.

So if you don't have access to the above you will need two things:
    1. someone that has a little mis-spent youth and some good software knowledge,
    2. A key with a blank, codeable transponder that said person can match to the ECU.

Theres someone I use frequently, but he is unfortunately in Essex. 

cheers for the reply danny….
yeah bought the complete package engine, ecu, halo, chip from key…
just cant get immobiliser to deactivate, ecu is connecting to vagcom but wont allow access into immobiliser.???
when tested for matched keys the ecu is not recognising the chip is taped to halo..
have two friends that are pretty good with software but couldnt find old verion's of vagcom or vagtacho to defeat immobiliser..
cheers
adrian

The best thing to do then is to find a local auto-locksmith, if they cannot get the transponder to talk to the ECU then they will most probably know someone who will! 

problem sorted now via old version of vagtacho…
engine running, going to see if we can figure out how to defeat immobiliser completely…
cheers
adrian

just to correct some of the points above!

the SKC can only be retrieved from the immobiliser box if you have a matched key in the ignition, if not then its a VW only job as they can retrieve a code via the central VW servers. What has changed is VW used to tell you what this code was for future use, but now they will not! makes no odds how old your software/cable is it still wont get the SKC without a key unless it can connect to the VW database.

in addition the important thing to get is a matched immobiliser box and chip/key, if you get this you can match it to your ecu easily with vag com or similar equipment in all of 2 minutes or less. the problem comes if you havent got a matched chip then the immobiliser box is basically scrap (or take it to vw, tricky when car no worky!) any post-96 golf, polo or seat will have a suitable immob box, but note around 1998 they changed slightly so they wont plug into an early loom, but if you take all the loom from the donor car then they'll work.

the alternative is send ecu off to be defeated by andyout, smiffster etc or get pre-96 ecu without an immobiliser. the ecu socket needs a slight trim but apart from that direct fit

Jonny- been out of action having surgery but now back to working on mine-still wont start. Had vagcom on and says immobiliser preventing start. Have original mk3 key wedged in halo. When it was in the mk3, the halo was hanging loose and stuffed behind the cowling. Any ideas/guidance you can offer?

Cheers

read the codes from the immobiliser box, that'll tell you why its cutting in

In the engine section, it says 17978 & P1570, which are listed against a number of potential faults including damaged key, incorrectly coded or defective immobiliser. If I go into the immobiliser section, it says no response from control module. cf_emoticons__BangHead:damn cold out there!

right well that would be your problem then, check the immobiliser is getting an ignition live feed to the black wire and earth to the browns. if you listen very carefully to the box it should click when you turn on the ignition

check the diagnostics wiring too. the ecu wire should run to the immobiliser box, then the diagnostics port runs to the other wire from immobiliser box

Got both browns to earth and ign live to black. From diagnostic port I have a yellow and a grey/white, both go to jumper block I put on top of fuse board. From immobiliser box there's a grey/white to said jumper block and a grey to a single pin brown connector which mates to the dash harness. Still gettin same fault - engine start blocked by immob?

Just found transponder glued to halo! Holding it in middle works- strange that there were no issues with that in mk3. Still not starting but no fault codes- hopefully something n nothing- ill have a fiddle tomorrow- Baltic out there now

wiring sounds fine then, odd you cant scan the immobiliser box but at least its working now!

think thats what the problem i had….
had to remove chip from halo and allow the immobiliser to reset…
then put back in place and away you go, also mine had lost memory of chip so used vag com to put back in…
not sure how this was done…
no problems since
cheers
adrian

Cheers fellas- the separation of halo and chip def has something to do with it but I still haven't got the damn thing sorted- drivin me nuckin futs
The immobiliser sometimes disarms and sometimes doesn't but can't work out why- in vagcom immob section it has shown the signal was too weak once or twice- but once cleared that usually stays away- however in engine section I still get engine start blocked by immob - most times- but sometimes it goes away. I have just a loose transponder which in the mk3 was just taped to halo- taping in same position doesn't work- I seem to have to hold it centrally in halo for it to work but as I said - that doesn't always work- grrrrrrr

signal too weak is usually the reader coil, swap it for another

Hey RJ, still struggling on. Got spark, got fuel, turns over, no fault codes but wont start even with a tow. Looked online to try to find out how to test crank sensor. Although cant find specific to ABF, seems there is a consensus that between two of the pins there should be 200-400 ohms. I have no continuity between 1 & 2 or 3, and between 2 & 3 I have 4MOhm. Thought I'd better run it by you before going get a replacement.

Can you also educate me on why there is a hall sender and a crank sensor- I thought you only need one or other to tell dizzy when to fire? Is there a test for the knock sensor and /or hall sender I can do? Wouldnt vagcom tell me theres a fault with these anyway? I am a vagcom novice and when I say would a fault appear, I mean in the fault codes list under "engine".

Cheers

crank sensor is a git in that if it fails often there is no code, ecu just doesn't think the engine is turning! I haven't found a firm guide on testing them, but if its original to the engine just replace it as its the only thing that will stop the car running pretty much!

this is the one I used:
http://www.vwsonline.co.uk/car_parts_bristol/037-906-433a.html

as for the hall sensor, on the abf/agg/ady its just a cylinder 1 reference sensor, it only has 1 trigger window. the reason for this is to help the ecu, without the sensor the ecu wont know where cylinder 1 is, and so it goes into batch fire mode. with the hall sensor it can do fully sequential injection.  plus it also affects knock detection. the ecu uses both knock sensors and the crank/cam signals to detect which cylinder exactly is pinking.

an abf./agg/ady will run ok with the hall sender disconnected, but its better with it connected

Thanks RJ- off to euros to pick one up now- damn forum didn't notify me of your response as normally does- grrr

RJ- new crank sensor fitted - old one was donald ducked, however; damn thing still wont start!

Spark, check, fuel, check, no fault codes, check, timing spot on, check, head in bits, check mate

Doesn't even sound like its tryin to fire. Can't I tempt you into a no frills holiday to sunny Whitley Bay, the north east's bondi beach?! Or at least wonder if you have any suggestions?

Given the presence of spark, fuel etc, is it reasonable to think that the wiring is not the source of the problem? Just a little concerned that I followed the scattered bits of guidance off the forums in a monkey see monkey do fashion rather than taking time to comprehend things properly- do you perhaps have a checklist I could ogle?… don't know what else to think/do!?

cheers