From 1.6 to 2.0 8v what I need

When i give direct power on fuse 17 the lift pump starts to run! 

I can't understand what missed  is it NECESSARY lambda sonde to start the engine?

forget fuse 17 for now, this will probably sort itself out once you fix the other problems! 17 is only the feed for the hazard switch/indicators, leave this for now.

The main thing to worry about now is why the car wont start, you must have missed something and this is probably why the other things arn't working! fuse 17 is fed directly from the ignition switch live feed, if its dead then the ignition isnt switching on properly.

so go back to the wiring splices, starting with the ignition switch. in particular, the black wire is what supplies the fusebox ignition feed, so make sure this is spliced from ignition switch pin 15 to fusebox pin H1/4. check the ignition switch pin 30 is permanent live too.

if you didnt get the red wires in your picture right, this would explain it, you need 1 live from the battery to one of the Y spades, and the ignition switch red wire needs a live feed. 90spec it comes from H1/2, pre-90 it comes from a chunky wire to one of the spades on the fusebox. so either you need to splice your ignition switch red wire to H1/2, or take the old red spade and put it to Y

check the ignition switch pin 30 is permanent live too.

Where is this?

The second part, sorry is my english, i'm not sure that i understand all.

I have an Y in 30-30B but nothing connected in this two and the H1/02 have a red cable that i connect direct to the battery for some try (before it wasn't connect).

The fact that i place the wrong pin in the knock sensor maybe can be a problem?

The black was in the wrong place, i put in the right place and i do the same for h1/4 and indicators work but she still don't turn on. 

Fuel doesn't arrive in the engine: arrive just air!

Ok my bfriend says the one fuel line take the air but the other doesn't send nothing. Ecu problem?

Back home, the engine don't start.

All the thing you say me to control works, but the fuel pump doesn't send fuel at the engine: immobilizer?

And the big problem is: in my wiring there isn't the place where add the pin with white/gray and yellow from VAG so I can't control what kind of errors I've.

So.. now? I control ALL, the fuel pump works, you can listen that they run but nothing else, no fuel to the engine.

on the ignition switch itself, the pins are numbered. 30 is the permanent live which should come from H1/2.

The main live feed from the battery should plug into one of the Y spades, so do that. if you have H1/2 connected to the battery this will power the fusebox but it isnt designed for that much load and could melt!

The terminals 30 and 30b should be joined with a loop of wire or a plastic jumper block.

the grey/white wire needs to be connected to your vag-com port, it doesnt connect to the fusebox itself. in the mk3 it connects to a jumper block above the fusebox. This is what it looks like:

I haven't the bottom piece in my fusesbox. Fu** my life. Now?

There are some other thing that i've to look for the fuel pump?

When i put the key in position 2 the fuel come out from the tube, something like 20cl and then stop, no more fuel but THEY WORK, you can listen when you turn off the engine (i give their direct power from the battery to be sure that they works).

I joined the h1/02 with the red bit cable that arrive from the dashboard. Is it correct? All works… horn, side indicator, backuplights ecc…

its no problem, you can splice the vag-com port direct to the grey/white wire if you like, the only reason vw use the jumper block is to make it easier to split the looms! all mk3 will have diagnostics so should have that block, if you have any in scrap yards you can rob for spares? if not as i say just splice it, or put a spade connector on it or whatever.

should be clipped to the top of the fusebox:


when you turn the key 1 click the ecu should prime the pump so it sounds like your ecu is at least powering up! if its not pumping while the engine is turning over, check your crank sensor.

this plugs into the 3 pin connector you pictured here (bottom one, with red/yellow wire):
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2zhk29d&s=6

the crank sensor is fitted to the block, right down at the bottom near the gearbox. you can just see it here:

Check, i have and i connect the sensor yesterday

I'm not sure that i understan, so ask again: i can splice grey/white cable direct to the vag-port?

How can I do? I dunno where it goes  

Sorry for this wast of time, but in 2 weeks I need that the baby alive. Worthersee incoming

well for a start you'll need a vag-com port, the mk1 wont have one
In the mk3 its located behind a dash blank or next to the ashtray. Any post-96 mk3 will have the later 16pin plug you need. If you cant find a mk3 to rob one from, pretty much any 96 on car will have the same port, but the wire colours may differ.

pin numbers:
4 - brown - earth
7 - grey/white - diagnostics
16 - red/white - live

http://vwtech.no-ip.info/images/golf/diagnostics1.jpg

I have this wiring whit the vag-port. Isn't this?

yes, so red/white is live, brown is earth, and run the grey/white direct to the mk3 ecu loom grey/white. ignore the yellow

So, if i connect the white/gray in this to the white/gray in my fusesbox, the vag-port works?

yup!

:O You make my day.

Another question: if distributor isn't connect right, the engine don't star, true?

it should still start unless battery is flat, but obviously if the alternator isnt connected properly it wont charge the battery

Miss to connect the blue cable in fusesbox, is it a problem now?

it will still start but wont charge without that, so put that on your list of things to fix!

Ok, I do this week.



My friend remember me that if i put the key in 1 the fuel pump relays don't make any sound.

That's no good right?