From 1.6 to 2.0 8v what I need

I've just only the CE1 wiring for the rear. Not the ce2…  

I find a ce1 mk1 cabrio 1.8 rear wiring but it's cost 60.00€ ( 50£).  

hmm you'll need some kind of ce2 loom so it plugs into your fusebox? unless you have the plugs but they're cut? if so then fine you'll have to just run wire all the way to the rear of the car, 25amp thinwall will do if you want to buy new

I found a wiring for the fuel pomp yu-hu!

But now I've another big problem. I can't understand what some pin are for.

Some photos:

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=29dxqae&s=6

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=343qf5i&s=6

http://i47.tinypic.com/i6gydf.jpg

http://i50.tinypic.com/vfl278.jpg

http://i47.tinypic.com/6571ms.jpg


thank you.

1. mfa outside temp sensor i think? is the other wire brown/white or brown/yellow?

2. side repeater? maybe carbon canister

3. coil

4. fan

5. brake fluid level sensor?

Coil: i've the mk1 coil and it has a different pin. Now?  


2. Maybe the side indicator? Is it possibile? I have one black/green - brown and another white/black - brown.

1. only brown

5. already have in light wiring…

1. follow the red/white wire, if it goes to g1/2 or g2/2 then its mfa outside temp

2. yes thats what i mean

5. is this on the mk3 loom yes? whatever it is, not important to you if you already have the brake fluid wires identified

to convert to mk1 coil is simples. cut the mk3 coil plug off, and crimp a spade on the black wire. get rid of the brown wire, you dont need it. pull the green/red wire back up thru the loom till its near the ecu.

now take the old tci -> coil -> distributor wiring from your car, and cut the distributor plug off. strip the covering from the rest of the wiring. pull the dizzy wires up near the tci plug, and splice the mk3 red/green wire to the wire from the tci unit pin 6. (pop the boot off, the pins are labelled) the last 2 wires from the dizzy can be binned

now tape the tci loom to the mk3 loom, run it back so it plugs into the coil as it was before, the long earth wire runs to the battery -ve.  last of all, you need to run a wire from G1/12 to the coil -ve, the mk3 will have a wire here already though. you need to cut this and run your coil wire to it. you could trace the g1/12 wire along the loom up to the coil, then cut it and put a spade on

the mk3 wire is the ecu rev counter signal, which wont work your mk1 clocks. of course, if you want mk3 clocks then you can leave the g1/12 wire alone, and you wont need the coil -ve wire.

the tci unit is the 7 pin thing at the top of the engine bay by the way!

I miss this two pins!

http://i49.tinypic.com/2iwav03.jpg

http://i49.tinypic.com/funrlf.jpg

 

1. inlet air temp sensor (in the air box)
2. front indicator

Helloooooooooo  

I've this one on my engine wiring:

http://i46.tinypic.com/1z36v6b.jpg

Is 4 pin and is quad. What is it?

coolant temp sensor, in the front flange

Find.

I try to connect everything but the light wiring I've some problems:

breake light: doesn't work. I need to connect to X3 or U2/10? I've more wiring to connect?

backup ligth: I connect the right wiring but doesn't work.  

The most big problem is the side indicator: when I use the hazard switch everything works but when i us the indicator (left or right the same problems) they doesn't work. In the tacho the light stay on and if I us the indicator the light is more shining.

what the hell i do  

Some news.

Backup light: Still don't work. If I give the direct power to the cable works, but in the wiring in fusebox dosen't work.

Side indicator: in the clocks the light are on but the light is less gloss. If i turn on, the indicator doesn't work the light become more gloss and no one indicator work. If i push the emergency switch, the side indicator work. The relay do the classic noise but when i use the indicator no noise no light in the front or middle or bottom.  

1. brake light, i assume you mean handbrake warning? what clocks, mk3?

2. reverse lights check fuse 14

3. indicators what stalks are you using mk1? check fuse 17, it could be the stalks are damaged if you're using 90spec mk2/3. check black/blue wire has ignition live

1. sorry STOP light. Clock i use mk1 and the light are the rear light. The stop lights don't work.

2. already check, fuse is ok. This like the K in CE2 (using CE1 wiring) doesn't have power. Backup lights, stop lights and indicators don't work.

3. Use CE1 wiring in CE2 fusebox.

1. ok brake lights go nowhere near the dashboard where is your brake light switch(es), pedal box or in the engine bay? you should have permanent live at the red/yellow wire so check that. check fuse 20 as well

2. check the reverse switch, bridge the pins with some wire see if they work. check for ignition live at the reverse switch red/black wire

3. ok check for ignition live at the blue/black spade on the back of the hazard light switch, if you dont have this check fuse 17

Fuse doesn't work. I give it direct power and work but now i dunno what i need to do.

The engine turn, but don't start

I've this three big cable:

1. from dashboard
1. from battery
1. (the black) from battery too

http://i45.tinypic.com/2818as.jpg

Where do I put this? Because if I put the red from the battery in the Z1 the lift pump starts to work but don't stop.

The fuse 17 doesn't work.

Side indicator, backuplight, horn and fuel pump don't work.

Fuel pump with direct power, work.

And this 2 thorns i dunno what is it:

http://i45.tinypic.com/2zhk29d.jpg


Vag

I have a cable yellow/white and gray that i dunno where it goes and the brown and red/white are interrupt.

2 of those are battery live feeds, the last one is from the ignition switch. you only need 1 battery live, there is 1 in your lighting loom and one in the mk3 engine loom. pick one to keep and bin the other!

with the ignition switch plug, you can bin it if you spliced your switch to the mk3 ignition wiring, as it gets live from that plug instead. trace it back to where it comes from.

once sorted out, the battery live needs to go to plug Y. the ignition switch live will also need to go to Y if you didnt splice the mk3 switch wiring in.

Z/1 is fuel injector live, on the engine loom there should be a red wire with a big yellow plug on it similar to red one above.

2nd pic, top plug is speedo sensor for mk3 dash, not needed if you keep mk1. the bottom plug is for the crank sensor, you need that! if you look at the bottom of the block near the gearbox, the crank sensor is there

ok i change the crank sensor (maybe i take on a wrong pin)  

We try also to understand why the fuse 17 doesn't work.

Also, we haven't energy in g1/03, why? Is it possible because i haven't take on lambda sonde?

g1/3 is a -ve trigger from ecu to switch on the fuel pump relay

fuse 17 can wait, need to get engine started first