Sportline stopping after 10 mins of driving.

Hi Ade
Thanks for the contining help…
I have replaced the fuel pump relay, next thing I'll do then is bridge the relay base as you described and see if that makes any difference.
When the car stopped today, whilst trying to resart it I listened to see if either of the pumps were running….as the car was turning over neither of the pumps were running. I have checked and I'm definitely getting a good spark so I think looks like a fuel control problem somewhere!!
Thanks mate

No worries mate, that's what this site is about.

I changed Sharon's Sportline relay and it wouldn't start at all - that's what gave me the clue that the fuse panel contacts had corroded due to solder melting in the relay. The new relay had slightly shorter pins and therefore couldn't reach the corroded pins !!

Ok
Another update!!
Have now tried bridging the fuel pump relay….pump runs.
Even with the fuel pump relay bridged the fuel pump stops after about 20 mins and the car dies.
Listening very carefully I can hear a click come from the car imobliser about half a second before the car stops each time.
I am begining to think this may be an issue with the immobiliser or its associated wiring?
Just to confuse the issue there has been 2 immobilisers fitted…not by me I hasten to add…but by previous keepers.
Looking behind the fuse box there is a complete mess of wires spliced into others and things going everywhere!!
What might be a good idea is to completely remove both these alarm/immobilisers, go back to standard, and see what happens then…..but this looks like it could be a bit of an mission.
May be what I need is someone that really knows how to do this…any ideas?
Many thanks for help
Mark

Removing an immobiliser can take a lot of time and patience :-(

You need a Haynes manual and an understanding of how to read the current flow wiring diagrams, they are not too hard though.

Next you need to trace every wire (usually all black) from the immobiliser to find out where it goes to, then use the Haynes to find out where the original wire would have gone to.

A lot depends on how much original loom wire the original fitter has removed to put the immobiliser in circuit, most just take a short section out or even just cut the wire. There can be up to 3 circuits broken, perhaps more as yours has had two immobilisers fitted.

Make sure you solder connections back together and use heat shrink sleeving to protect from shorts.

Good luck mate

If the pump is stopping, I would check you have decent voltage/current supply at the pump and from the coil at the fuseboard before you start taking the immobiliser out.

With the fuel pump relay bridged the signal from the coil is not being used.

He said he heard a click as it died - which could be the immobiliser ?

A quick test without removing the immobiliser would be to run a fused 12V feed to the coil from the battery. And the same to the fuel pump. If it is the immobiliser then it depends on which circuits it is breaking.

Hi all
A little update on how things are with the sportline cutting out problem.
I dropped the fuse board down and had a good look behind it for any wiring issues…..couldn't see anything obviously wrong…..is a complete birds nest of wires behind there though. 
Moved on to the immobilisers…..unplugged them…..plugged them back in…..moved them about a bit and ever since then the car has run without any problems what so ever!!
Took the car on a few short journeys to start off with as I was very concerned about conking out somewhere. Have now got my confidence back in the car and have used it loads over the past few months and completed journeys of more than 2 and a half hours and I've not had any re-occurance of the problem.
So fingers crossed it now seems all OK…….just wish I had actually found something at fault so I could have put it right!!
Thanks to all for their input and ideas on the problem…..it helped hugely.

Well done mate. Sounds like it was a loose connection in the end. Good news it was a simple fix