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1.8t AGU conversion

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1.8t AGU conversion

Hi Everyone. Need a bit of help… iv purchased an 83 campaign thats running a KR16v engine, g60 gearbox and flywheel with a hydraulic clutch conversion. Im wanting to stick an AGU engine in it. Iv got the engine with turbo and wondered what other parts are needed.
What do i do about engine mount on the drivers side, it should marry up to the box ok.
What ECU's are good to use with this engine?
What driveshafts should i use?

are there any companies that i can buy the required parts from?

sorry, im not too clued up on conversions but hoping to learn a lot :)

Thanks in advance

Piers

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a mate of mine has done this conversion already and suggested i need a 16v mk3 tensioner, threaded stud and lock nut. he also suggested 100mm caddy driveshafts.

What engine mount should i use? is there one that bolts in?

management, stand alone ECU? where to get one from? prices to pay etc?

anyone?

 :dontknow:

come on guys… any help is appreciated as im new to this.

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dont worry about shaftsm, its already been taken care of. you can run it with the existing gearbox and flywheel. if you fit the mk4 box you'll have to change the shifter tower for the g60 one, or fit mk4 shifter and cables.

ecu wise thats your call, oem or megasquirt/emerald etc.

afaik the driver side mount will go on, its just a case of trim the belt covers etc till it fits. certainly haven't heard of anyone struggling.

tensioner mk2 16v also work, note the later mk3 ones are self-tensioning type. not sure you need this, but maybe its required if you're fitting to a mk1 due to the side mount bracket now i think about it?

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rubjonny said

dont worry about shaftsm, its already been taken care of. you can run it with the existing gearbox and flywheel. if you fit the mk4 box you'll have to change the shifter tower for the g60 one, or fit mk4 shifter and cables.

ecu wise thats your call, oem or megasquirt/emerald etc.

afaik the driver side mount will go on, its just a case of trim the belt covers etc till it fits. certainly haven't heard of anyone struggling.

tensioner mk2 16v also work, note the later mk3 ones are self-tensioning type. not sure you need this, but maybe its required if you're fitting to a mk1 due to the side mount bracket now i think about it?

Hi Jon, Thanks for your reply.

Is the G60 box thats in the car compatible with the engine i have? iv been told it is…

afaik? is this the mount i need for the drivers side.

Are the megasquirt/emerald ECU's commonly used?

thanks Piers

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and when you say the shafts have been taken care of? Has the owner already changed them on the car that you know of or should the standard shafts be ok?

Thanks again

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yes the g60 box will bolt right up to your 1.8t engine, just swap the flywheel over if the 20v one is DMF (basically does it look different to the kr one? if so -> bin :lol:)

As Far As I Know ;)

megasquirt, emerald and others are often used but these are aftermarket ecu,. and so there is no basic map for you out of the box. you run a failsafe map just to get you to your tame rolling road tuning expert, and then they map it for you. so ££££

oem has a great map out of the box so its fit and forget, once you adapt the wiring loom

basically if its got an 02a box in there and the car drives ok, you already have the correct shafts on it. the 20v engine will go in exactly the same as the 16v so no need to touch the box or shafts, keep them as they are :)

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rubjonny said

yes the g60 box will bolt right up to your 1.8t engine, just swap the flywheel over if the 20v one is DMF (basically does it look different to the kr one? if so -> bin :lol:)

As Far As I Know ;)

megasquirt, emerald and others are often used but these are aftermarket ecu,. and so there is no basic map for you out of the box. you run a failsafe map just to get you to your tame rolling road tuning expert, and then they map it for you. so ££££

oem has a great map out of the box so its fit and forget, once you adapt the wiring loom

basically if its got an 02a box in there and the car drives ok, you already have the correct shafts on it. the 20v engine will go in exactly the same as the 16v so no need to touch the box or shafts, keep them as they are :)

Thanks for your help again,

So i know its a million dollar question  :mrgreen:  but whats the most reccomended/used, OEM ECU out the box or a custom coded one. Is there quite a lot of work involved in adapting the wiring side of it?

Just the engine mounts i need to sort now, obviously the gearbox mount is already there and sorted, is any welding required for the engine mount?

I got the 20v engine without a gearbox etc so will need to source a few bits and bobs :)


thanks again

Piers

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both have been used with great success, the aftermarket stuff is easier to wire in, the oem stuff is easier to get going (if you know how to wire)

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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rubjonny said

both have been used with great success, the aftermarket stuff is easier to wire in, the oem stuff is easier to get going (if you know how to wire)
pro's and cons then i suppose…. roughly do you know which is cheaper? or the actual cost of them.
I work with wiring diagrams at work so can usually find my way around one fairly easy if a guide is provided. has anyone created a wiring guide?

Going back to the engine mount, can i buy this off the shelf to literally bolt into the car and bolt onto the engine?

Thanks mate

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liek i say, so far as i know the std mount bolts on, but you have to cut up the timing belt plastics for it to fit. I guess the 16v tensioner is required in order to clear the mount?  the expensive mounts are the ones required to fit a cable shift box, which you already have :)

oem is cheaper by far, its just hard to wire in. there are people who can do it for you, I will do it for 120 but you'll have to wait till march at the very earliest!

aftermarket you gotta buy the ecu, make the loom then pay someone to map it for you. it will probnably work out cheaper if you can map the car yourself though, thats a big If mind!

as for wiring, read this thread to the end lots of info and I've covered the CE1 fusebox wiring in there:
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?205887

its for aum/auq but agu is similar. if you have a really early agu the pinouts are a bit different, but see my sig I have all the wiring diagrams you are likely to need

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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rubjonny said

liek i say, so far as i know the std mount bolts on, but you have to cut up the timing belt plastics for it to fit. I guess the 16v tensioner is required in order to clear the mount?  the expensive mounts are the ones required to fit a cable shift box, which you already have :)

oem is cheaper by far, its just hard to wire in. there are people who can do it for you, I will do it for 120 but you'll have to wait till march at the very earliest!

aftermarket you gotta buy the ecu, make the loom then pay someone to map it for you. it will probnably work out cheaper if you can map the car yourself though, thats a big If mind!

as for wiring, read this thread to the end lots of info and I've covered the CE1 fusebox wiring in there:
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?205887

its for aum/auq but agu is similar. if you have a really early agu the pinouts are a bit different, but see my sig I have all the wiring diagrams you are likely to need

yeah i dont mind cutting plastic to make it fit :) a chap i know that lives fairly local has done this conversion already so im sure i could get him a few beers/pay a day rate for some help when i get around to it. Hoping to build up a collection of parts i need so that when the time comes i can crack on and get it done.
I think i will probably opt for the OEM one if thats the case. it makes more sense. There is a chap on another forum i use (lupo related) who send his wiring looms off and had them done and returned ready to plug and play. I might look down that route or take you up on your offer. It will probably be after march anyway before i get round to getting the engine in the car. Iv got to get it over to the bodyshop for a colour change first.

Thanks again for your help

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yeah thats what I do, the only other guy i know of who does it is andyout on clubgti so its worth gettign in contact with him if you cant wait :)

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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rubjonny said

yeah thats what I do, the only other guy i know of who does it is andyout on clubgti so its worth gettign in contact with him if you cant wait :)
yeah im not in too much of a rush anyway mate :) want to pace myself with it and enjoy doing it. rather than breaking bones and  :banghead:  out of frustration. If it takes me a year, so be it. plus its going to cost me a fortune!

Paintwork first, then interior, then engine.

I want to atleast have a good rolling chassis before i go for powering it up

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Standard mount won't bolt onto an AGU, you need to either buy one like this, or alternatively if you're handy with a welder or know someone who is you need to make one from the pic below.

If you just want standard power i'd stick with OEM wiring and get an immobiliser defeat on the ECU.

'81 1.8T
BMW R1200GSA
Caddy 2k 1.8T

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Thanks very much mr purple for the diagram. That will come in handy. I will probably opt for buyin one to be honest. It's going to be next year before it all happens but I'd like to get the bits together

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Hi everyone… Just looking into a few more bits of info for the conversion.

Does anyone know if the mk4 downpipe will fit or will i need to have one made up/is there an alternative?

With my car already having the KR engine conversion, can the current wiring loom be matched with the mk4 loom or do i need to get hold of an original MK1 loom to have matched up?

Im sure i will have more questions when it begins but these are the only 2 i can think of at the moment

Thanks Piers

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Hi Piers,

Not sure about the loom but I am pretty sure you have to buy a special downpipe for the MK1.

Qpeng sell them amongst others Qpeng.com is for sale | HugeDomains

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If i were you id get another mk1 loom, unless you know the 16v loom has been done 'properly' often its easier to just start fresh with an unmodified loom rather than deal with someone elses work. i find 9 times out of 10 i have to bin anything done by someone else and start again when im given already converted looms to work on :lol:

plus you might be able to sell your loom on if its been done well, or swap it with another mk1 owner for an unmodified one :)

It might sound odd, but for a 20v conversion the easiest loom to start with is CE1 digifant from mk2 golf (or cabrio if you can find one!!) these already have a lot of the wiring in that you require, plus the extra green plug 'R' which is needed for the stock CE1 ecu relay socket to work. of course if you dont have R you can just put the ecu relay above the fusebox, this is fine so long as its done properly.

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Thanks Smudger… That looks like the best place to get one from. the price is reasonable too really. I will get one ordered when the time comes.

Jonny, im hoping to send it to you anyway mate and just pay you to do it :) if the offer is still there  :D

I will try and source the correct loom and get the mk4 and an original mk1 sent down to you when you have the time to do it. To be honest its one of those things id rather pay someone to do, rather than risk getting it wrong. One slight mistake could take forever to try and rectify. plus if you have done it before you will know whats what.

Do you know of any looms for sale that are what i need?

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if you want me to do it you're looking at may at the earliest! i have 43 looms already booked in and tyhey're coming in faster than i can make them so the list is only going to get longer!

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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