DIY powder coating
Posted
Old Timer
DIY powder coating
What kind of zinc plating setup have you got?
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Posted
Old Timer
it think it can be done
i've spend a while looking over there site and it looks like a hands down win, it would save me money in the long run and be fun while doing it
i've build a blasting cabinet in the past and i have an idea for a new version on a smaller scale
my zinc plating kit is something similar to this and have had brilliant results
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professional-Bright-Zinc-Plating-Kit-FREE-plating-accesory-restoration-car-bike-/251222302407?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a7e041ec7
check what chrissy has achived with it
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&type=misc&id=your-mk1-golfs_2%2Fengine-detailing&start=140
Posted
Old Timer
I do actually have some plating bits and bobs, nickel & gold plating, which may be a little OTT, and because I'm in Spain, I doubt if they will be able to send hazardous chemicals over, and Ryan air really get the knock!
what are the chemicals that I would need for zinc coating? does it stay yellow for along time, or does it mellow after a while?
From the kit, it looks like our tropical fish are going to loose there air pump and heater for a while!
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Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Old Timer
I did get some stuff from caswell, could'nt get the Gold to work properly…yet…just thinking what a de-chromed and gold plated cabby would look like….
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Posted
Old Timer
a little extreme but do you think it would be possible to do a engine block or underside of a car?
udnerside of the car is extremem but with the heat gun method surely it is possible,
engine block would need alot of heat due to the density of the block itself, but would it be a suitable finish for a block tempature wish
Posted
Old Timer
Not sure about block, as you say, big heat drain.
same problem with panels.
also, it may need more KV's?
I have a spare wing, I'll give that a go as well on the next play. Maybe I'll have a look around for an engine block or similar that I can try out as well, actually, thinking about it, may be able to do this in situ without taking engine out. bit of masking up & dismantling etc.
mmmmmmm…aybe.
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Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Old Timer
Personally, I would say it's not suitable, as I would think most blocks get to over 230 degrees on the outside, which is the melting point of the powder, I reckon you'd have a sticky mess on the floor after a while.
Still, if that's the case, why is it okay for rocker covers and sumps? does the oil cool them down suffeciently? or does the tin disipate the heat better? Maybe the heat doesn't concentrate in those areas so much.
The only way to know 100% is to try it.
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