MK1 golf KR

By the way…..auto 90mm driveshafts are different to 90mm driveshafts….so it looks like you'll need new driveshafts anyway. Just find some 100mm stuff, there's plenty about although the price tends to be quite high because everyone else wants them.

paul_c said

So you'll need the gear linkage for a manual 5 speed too? I think you might need the steering rack also (can't remember if auto steering rack had the bracket for the linkage).

Gearbox can be 'converted' to 90mm shafts by swapping the drive flanges on it; or seek 100mm shafts from a later cabby and make the small mod or use later hub carriers too.

Don't forget KR gearbox has a 24mm input shaft, most other 020 gearboxes including all in Mk1 have 22mm input shaft - but if you're using a KR too, your friction disc will accept the 24mm shaft already. If you're mixing and matching, you need to make sure it does match etc.

I have a gear linkage off a 5 speed , it runs underneath and on the end has splines ,will that be fine to use with the kr box .

Yeh i might aswell find the 100m shafts then and grind the lip down instead of getting hubs aswell .

o and the steering rack is not an auto as he has used that too , so i now have a manual one , how do i get away with the PAS pump on the engine , can i remove it and fit the non PAS belt on ? thank you

It depends on the belt setup on your particular KR. For example, I don't know why you're asking about non-PAS belt - on the one I did, there were two belts. One drove crank-water pump-alternator, one did crank-PAS-water pump. Beware, the double puley on the waterpump, one of the pulleys freewheels (the alternator bit) so if you simply removed the PAS stuff, you'd be left with no drive to the water pump. You would need to replace the pulley on the water pump with the one for a KR engine not fitted with power steering.

Have a look at the thread I did, I think its stickied, somewhere in there is the part number for this pulley.


You might have a slightly different pulley arrangement though - so check first.

ahh right i get it know , yeh the problem is atm the engine is still in the corrado so havnt really looked over it properly but when i get it out it will all be more understandable and then can say for defnate what it has on and what it dont , your help has been fantastic so far , thank you as i understand alot more now .

I have also heard you have to grind the o/s engine mount off the chassis leg and flip it upside down and weld it back on .
What i was going to do if this was right was grind it off attach it to the engine , lower the engine in and see where it has to sit and spot weld it in then remove the engine and get it in properly .

Dont remove the engine mount off the chassis leg, its already in the right place! You've got your wires crossed somewhere, thats only necessary for small block (1.1 and 1.3) cars

I didn't have to do anything to the engine mounts with my kr engine it just slotted straight in, I used the kr box on mine so if u use a different box it might be different. Not really to sure bout that mate, u got a lot of work ahead of you mate it took me nearly 2 years to get mine to way I wanted lol ull probly start one thing and then open a can of worms and will be doing it for a longer time than expected

Get sum pics up web u start mate

Dan

90 mm driveshafts and hubs are fine if you swap the flanges on the kr gearbox to ones that fit your driveshafts remember you will need new seals. i can help you make up a tool needed to do this but you will need good circlip pliers

your gear linkage will attach to the new gearbox so no need to swap anything other than get new bushes

you will need a 16v brake master cylinder and servo as the dizzy will hit the mk1 one. and flip the reservior round


your std mk1 brakes should go under 13" steels ok if not some spacers may give you the clearance needed.

your wiring could cause you some grief if you want to convert to injection but you may be able to use the corrado engine loom in your mk1 fusebox as i think they are the same.

the non pas water pump pulley is obsolete from vw and i cant find any for sale on the net so you may need to tack weld the free pulley.

paul_c said

Dont remove the engine mount off the chassis leg, its already in the right place! You've got your wires crossed somewhere, thats only necessary for small block (1.1 and 1.3) cars

Good job i didnt do that then :/ this sounds like its getting better but will more than likely come stuff somewhere else  

sporttrucker said

90 mm driveshafts and hubs are fine if you swap the flanges on the kr gearbox to ones that fit your driveshafts remember you will need new seals. i can help you make up a tool needed to do this but you will need good circlip pliers

your gear linkage will attach to the new gearbox so no need to swap anything other than get new bushes

you will need a 16v brake master cylinder and servo as the dizzy will hit the mk1 one. and flip the reservior round


your std mk1 brakes should go under 13" steels ok if not some spacers may give you the clearance needed.

your wiring could cause you some grief if you want to convert to injection but you may be able to use the corrado engine loom in your mk1 fusebox as i think they are the same.

the non pas water pump pulley is obsolete from vw and i cant find any for sale on the net so you may need to tack weld the free pulley.

Thanks for answering most of my question , been a great help and alot taken off my mind lol , tbh i think atm i have all the answers in need untill i start getting this together , i will be sure to make a thread and hopefully help out some other people who wants to do this thank you so much !

abf dizzy cap with the kr dizzy rotated 180 degrees works great and gives you tons of room for the bake master cylinder, you can even fit your reservoir the right way round

the only thing is you need an 8v king lead as the kr one probably wont reach. i had 2 sets of kr leads handy and i managed to pop one of the plug ends off and fit a dizzy end, some leads the ends pop off so the above is possible.

i tried the above flip reservoir thing but i found the clearance issue was to the master cylinder rather than the bottle, the pipes were touching on my cap. for some reason in the pic above he has more room but on mine i had no choice but to go the abf cap route

see my mk1 16v cabby build thread lots of pics in there