DX to ABF engine wiring loom conversion

Yeah I suppose your right. I'll solder up the few broken wires, re wrap it and sell it on.

I might have a go at getting the KR loom and ECU out tomorrow. Hopefully, (if I can get my head around it all) it might run by the end of next week ;-)

Eup Rubjonny,

Progress has been made this afternoon. I decided to hoover, wash and wax the beast today as the sun was out. After a couple of Stella Artois Cidre i moved on to ripping out the ecu and wiring. It took a few hours labeling stuff and keeping it all uncut but i got there in the end.

It seems all of the engine management is run from the mk2 fuse box and all of the rest of the engine bay is run from the mk1 fuse box.

Mk1 fuse box:

1.Dash Loom
2. fan
3. brake fluid
4. lights
5. a couple of water / oil sensors.


Mk2 fuse box has:

1. Fuel Pump,
2. Idle Air control valve,
3. Ignition Amp,
4. Dizzy,
5. 5th injector,
6. ignition coil,
7. A few earths on the rocker,
8. battery + and -
9. some sort of sensor plugged into the wing (amb temp sens?)
10. WUR
11. Starter motor ignition lead.
12. a couple of plugs up by the ecu
13. Throttle switch etc
14. a few oil and water sensors.
15. ECU
16 Ignition switch
17. some sort of VDO socketry that was tiewrapped to the steering rack.

What do you think?

cheers

Hi again, sort of getting the hang of this now, However, I've run into a problem although I don't think it's too bad.

The wires on terminal G1 are so different to the diagram you have forwarded. The wires on my mk3 ABF loom look like this: (the top right brn/whi has been chopped all ready)



The wires on my mk2 KR loom look like this:



There seems to be wires in different places, with different colours and on the diagram it doesn't mention the grn/whit on my mk3 ABF loom.

I'm confused as to what they are and which to chop.

G2 is sorted, the wiring on both KR and ABF looms are the same for that. I assume I jus leave them
as they are now without having to put the lambda prob (white/red) to the injector wire (red) as the injector wire with the yellow end is now on Z1.

Is this right?



G1/G2 and Z1


I'm assuming F will be ok to keep the KR part of the loom as the wiring is the same?

g1/12 is the rev counter feed, which runs direct to ecu on a mk3. on mk2 it runs to the coil. this i guess runs to the mk1 fusebox in your car to feed the clocks?

g2/4 is an ign live feed for the isv on the abf so that needs to be kept.

basically leave the abf wiring as it is now, and plug it in! it should work fine. leave the mk1 engine loom as it is also, just extend any wires if needed to reach the abf sensors. you'll need an ecu relay #30 in slot 3, £10ish from vw. run the fuel pump power wire to plug M/2 as per the faq/diagrams and you're sorted. bin the relay marked 'fuel' looks bodged

I stripped the F plug socket out of the mk2 loom tonight with the starter motor wire etc. It was joined half way to the WUR plug and I believe something like a temp sensor? I didn't think I'd need these so I snipped them to release the loom from the rest of the loom.  

I've started laying it out and tried taping the mk3 and mk2 loom together but it's too confusing on the kitchen floor. I think i'm going to have to wait till it is laid out in the car as it is all messed up and tangled :-(

Next step is to have a look at this immobiliser and gear then to decide what wires I can bin all together.

Morning mate.

Just sat having a look at the imobilizer boxy thing and wondering what I wire it to.

I have 2 brown wires spliced together assuming earth to body?
Then I have a grey/white a grey and a black wire. Where do these go? I've plugged the ignition key ring into the other plug. What do I do with the chip? Glue it to my key or the steering column?

rubjonny said

yep you got everything there so thats sorted. black wire to ign live, brown wire to earth, grey/white wire to ecu grey/white and grey to the vag-com jumper block. if the wires havent had the plugs chopped off they'll only fit where they need to go anyway though

Aahhhh

black is ign live, grey and grey/white are the diagnostics connections. one of them goes to the grey/white wire on the engine loom and the other goes to the vagcom port. you cant get them mixed up as the plugs are different shapes

if you can get the key reader under the ign lock trim then buy a mk3 golf AH key blank with an immobiliser chip . get it cut to your car by a local locksmith then pop the chip in. otherwise tape the chip to the reader coil and tucki it up under the dash

The trouble is I don't have the plugs on the end as they have been cut by the guy I got the
engine from, also I don't have a diagnostic port either. :-(

ah ok, well the one to the engine plug is grey/white
you dont need the diagnostics port for it to run, but you'll want to get one sorted at some point

Deffo, I love the idea of having a mk1 with a diagnostic port and chipped keys so noone can nick it as easily :-)

I had a go at removing the KR inlet today and didn't get too far as I was working against the clock. By the time I got home from work and got cracking it started to get dark. It's nearly all off tho!

To kill some time i decided to have a look inside the ECU to see what was what. After that I ordered myself a chip of the tinted web, I went for one a few dub addicts have been raving about on other forums, luckily it was a bid prices chip so a decent deal. After I had researched people's before and after power runs this chip provided between 6hp and 9hp increases. Knowing my luck it will decrease power.

Anyway, for those of you that have never seen the insides of an ECU here's a few piccys.

which one was it you went for? did the guy ask you for the part number off your ecu?

The Number was already on the website but he did ask for it yes.

It is this one:
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=320823949535&kw=320823949535

I have had a go at routing the wiring loom tonight, I'm hoping to get it running as it should before I start chopping and shortening anything. It seems there is a monumental amount of wire to sort out.

I wondered if you could help me identify these connectors on the short engine loom.
Left: brown/black right: x2 red/white and a brown/white

brown / white - yellow/brown?

Dizzy plug - yellow/red single plug, two brown earths?

Green/brown - brown/white

3 pin green/brown, brn/white, blk

2 pin blk - white, single connector brn/ blk, 5 pin socket is injectors



Cheers

thats the one i have in mine, back to back dyno proven +6bhp and +5torques. plus a much smoother torque/power curve and better afrs to boot

you'll want to completly unwrap that section of loom as the wiring bakes hard round the back of the inlet. when you rewrap cover it in some heat proof tape or something

1. 2 pin plug on the left is breather heater -> bin
3 pin plug is tps

2. idle switch

3. red/yel - dash temp sensor
earths to back corner of head (should be a bolt there)

4. ecu temp sensor, need to get yourself a plug for these and splice on

5. speedo sensor for mk3 dash

6. injectors and ISV

7. 2x opil pressure switches, and mfa oil temp sender. the large senders are oil switches, small one is oil temp. these will be on your old engine loom

Well I hope i get some decent power from it. I'm confident it will run more than 170bhp as the fuelling will be sorted, this is the problem I was having. Hopefully it will also get shut of my idling and stalling problems. I remember my car use to pink slightly at low rpm but would rev through it, this was when it had the kjet KR set up, with a bit of luck this should have gone aswell.

Just out of interest Rubjonny, what sort of mpg did you get from your chipped up ABF? The kjet wasn't too bad on fuel so I would expect it to be better with EFI?

How many wires do you have on the ECU plug connector then? I have loads of them left but I'm sure there shouldn't be many left over.

Can't wait till Saturday morning, I'm going to try an get it all finished :-)

Is the ISV same an idle air control valve "idle stabiliser valve"? And is the idle switch the throttle switch on the throttle body?

Also, what happens with the pipe work to the inlet. I have a small breather pipe at the front/bottom of the inlet but it is too large for the mk2 pipe then this goes off towards the airbox but I have no pipe for this. Is there an extra pipe on the air pipe that I'm missing and should there be a breather pipe for the inlet that came with my mk3?

Oh one more thing, what is the sensor between the inlet manifold branches?
Cheers.

the abf is very economical it'll be as good or better than k-jet

off hand you have 2 ecu power wires, an eartyh, speedo, mpg and revo which wont be needed, fuel pump relay earth trigger, diagnostics.. thats all i can think of. post up wire colours
you'll need a 30 relay in your fusebox if i havent already said

yeah isv = idle stab valve, throttle switch is on the back of the throttle body.

you should have 3 vacuum hoses, one from the side of the inlet near the throttle that goes to the fuel rail, one from the front of the inlet near the isv that goes to the PCV (black thing screwed to front of inlet with 2 big + screws) and one from either the back of the inlet or a nipple on the brake servo hose to the ecu.

then you have the block breaher from the PCV whcih goes to the inlet pipe, and theres one from the isv to the airbox. if you cant hook this up just put a little breather filter on there, liek a mini K&N jobber.

single pin sensor on the front of the inlet is rad fan after-run, you can remove it and bin

I'm gutted!!!! I've only gone and dropped my ABf dizzy and broke the braket which has the 10mm bolt going through it :-( luckily it looks like it has sealed and is prety solid but I'd betta get looking for a new one :-(

I've nearly fitted the small engine loom now but the rain got a bit much so I had to call it a day this evening. I still have a million wires to sort out so I'll get a pick of the wires up which may need cutting and binning.

Might be a silly question but will i need a lambda sensor for this conversion??



Cheers.