2.0 ABF bottom end and 16V KR head rebuild Pic heavy

Just a thought. What kind of exhaust manifold is best for this set up. I've done a decent amount of reading and I've a bad feeling my exhaust manifold won't reach the exhaust ports now I have the 2.0 ABF block mated to the 1.8 KR head.

Is the supersprint manifold the only one that will fit

the one storm sells fits apparently? yours might go with a bit of tweaking of the bulkhead and downpipe

She's in!!!!

Sorry I don't get your last post. What's the one storm?
Cheers

storm developments, they used to sell one that a couple of guys used on mk1 abf swaps

Well after a bit of a fight I got the exhaust manifold on and it fits fine. It clears the steering gator boot etc

I've sorted out all of the wiring and repaired a couple of plugs.
I've put 4 new injector seals on and all of the fuel lines are in place.
All of the pipe work is sorted.




All that I need to do now is replace a few water hose jubilee clips, fit the drive shafts and rear engine mount. It should be good to go then :-)

Howdy guys,

After popping the new injector seals in and new fuel filter fitted the engine started but didn't tick over when I released the throttle. This isn't a major problem yet as i've not had a good look around to see if I've missed anything plus I dont think there's much fuel left.

I did notice the engine sounds as tho it has a super charger fitted as it has a high pitched whine when it's revved up. I think it is either the timing belt tension is too high or the timing belt is rubbing on the metal dust plate around the back of the water pump.

I noticed a few sparks coming from the alternator so I removed it and it looks as though it has worn. It doesn't spin freely and the blades touch the casing. I've bent them back slightly and still it is stiff so this will be replaced.

So…… Still happy but a few problems to address. Any thought feel free to input ;-)

the idle and co will probably need a tweak if you've put all new seals and gaskets, might have had an air leak last time it was running, plus you've put a bigger engine in! if it runs with throttle this is a good sign that it just needs setting up. belt whine as you say is probably the tension or something rubbing, wont be hard to track down the problem.

with the alternator what i woudl do is fit mk3 setup, but you'll need an abf crank pulley if you didnt get oen with the engine. use the early mk3 8v non-ac setup with the big spring under the alternator. the later setup with the tensioner wheel can hit the chassis leg. u need the alternator, bracket, spring, waterpump pulley and all the mounting studs/nuts from 1.8-2.0 8v mk3, crank pulley as i say needs to be abf. the pas stuff runs on its own belt so can be binned

Howdy again,

I've had a look at the beast again.

What I did was remove components around the timing belt until the noise stopped. It did finally stop after I'd removed everything. It was the last components as I suspected which was the metal dust cover at the back of the oil pump pulley and water pump. It has scuffed the inside of the belt but it isn't too bad.

The car ticks over now. All I did was turn the throttle body screw anti clock wise (outwards) about half a turn or more and she sounds pretty sweet! A bit lumpy but this will be because of the high lift camshafts plus the fuelling, ignition timing and WUR havnt been set up.

I took the alternator to my buddy's auto electrics place and he's going to swap the bearing and run a bench test to make sure it is in good working order. A new one comes to £140 so this is much cheaper.

Does anyone have a bit of a diagram of the mk2 16v alternator and bracket set up. I did wonder if I'd missed a vital component off which may have resulted in excessive force on the alt bearing. I don't think I have tho!

I did think about using the mk3 alternator set up but the mk2 does look a lot simpler  ;-)

Actually, thinking about it and what you've said, the mk3 alternator and belt set up is a pretty good idea!

Will all of those pulleys fit then? Minus power steering belt etc.

What happens with the wiring? I would imagine I'd need to cut out the alternator wires from my mk3 loom and raplace the mk2 loom with it?

nothing to the mk2 alt setup really, bolts to a beefy metal bracket on the block at the bottom, and has the arm at the top! if it works ok then no need to swap it, see how your mate does. mk3 setup has a thicker belt, is lighter, newer and easy to get in scrappy as 99% of the bits are same 1.8-2.0 8v/16v, rather than mk2 where its all 16v specific.

maun advantage tho is the pas setup is a lot nicer than mk2, but sincve you dont have pas not so much reason to upgrade! bwasically if it was me if your mate sorts your old alternator id use that, then later on down the line if it dies fit mk3 stuff

I had a word with my mate and he said the bearing ha totally gone and has shattered the insides of the alternator so the stator was bent and windings damaged. He managed to get me one new for 95 quid but I couldn't get what you said about the mk3 alt out of my head.

After thinking about it I figured I had nothing to lose so I've had a go at fitting it.
I've swapped the brackets over and all of the pulleys and it seems to fit bob on! It is devilishly close to the air box but I'm not too worried about this as a home made bracket will hold the bo out of the way jo problem!

I have connected the original mk2 alternator wire to the 13mm bolt which fits fine. The other wire I need to fit is the blue one. What is the theory behind this as the mk2 alt had a single blue wires 8mm spade connector (I think) but the mk3 alt has a double plug connector. What do I do now? Do I cut the double wired connector off the mk3 loom and solder them together on the single mk2 blue wire or does only one of the pins in the mk3 alt need a feed?
Cheers



I also bought a new radiator ;-)


I've nearly finish the project now. All I need to do is alternator wiring and the top radiator hose.

I have fitted the wrong top hose pipe to the head without realising. I've gone to fit the top hose to the head pipe and it doesn't fit as the mk3 ABL pipe points towards the battery and the mk2 KR pipe points towards the rad/air box (if that makes sense?)

I need the KR plastic pipe otherwise the top rad hose won't reach. Trouble is I can't find it anywhere :-(

see pics:

might find it fits better if you put on the early non-ac alternator setup, this sits a lot lower in the bay. you can tell as it doesnt have the tensioner wheel, instead theres a massive spring under the alternator. only need the alt and bracket plus the shorter belt. the pas pump brackets can all be unbolted and left off either way

wiring wise get the alternator -> starter wire off a mk3 in the scrappy, also cut a good length of the blue wire from the donor keepign the single pin plug. then crimp a spade on this and pop to the plug on your car. you'll see what I mean!

with the rad hose if you ever plan to go abf management in future you will need to use the abf front flange, as it wont fit with abf inlet. in fact i dont even think it will fit with the alternator setup you have, iirc kr flange hits the tensioner! if you fit early setup it fits ok, but what i would do if i was you is try to fit the old mk1 top hose to the abf front flange then you're sorted either way. it should go on with a bit of trimming. you might find if you flip it round and fit on backwards it goes better, also maybe move the rad along towards the passenger side to reduce the angle?

Howdy dodar!

What are these for?




I think I've sorted the wiring issue for the alternator as the battery light now goes off and when I rev the engine the volt meter goes up from
12v.

I've also overcome the water hose problem by doing as you said. I cut my samco hose up from the 8v mk1 and it fits. The timing belt was a little too tight so I've sorted that out and the whining noise has gone ;-)

It's all looking up now. Just a few fuelling issues i.e tickover, metering head set up, WUR set up and ignition timing then it's totally finished! :-)

Does anyone know which wires are for the fuel enrichment valve and where does the vac pipe route to?

I also have 2 vac pipes underneath the tb that have been bridged. Any idea where they should go, if I put one to the fuel enrichment valve where does the other go?

I have noticed a vac pipe that has been blanked off on the pipe which is connected to the servo.

Cheers.

Does it go to the over run cut off valve (which I don't have) then to the back of the tb?

3 pin plug - throttle switch
2 pin plug with yel/blk and brown/blk - over-run cut-off valve
2 pin plug with wht & black - cold throttle enrichment valve

this is the thingy u piccied above, it needs a vac feed from the brake servo pipe to work. the over-run cutoff is a big grey n black plastic thing and also needs a vac feed, should be on a pipe between air box and inlet boot

Where is the throttle switch then? I'm sure mine doesn't have one. I'll go and buy some vacc pipe tomorrow and plug the fuel valve in. I've seen alot of people disregard this but Vw wouldn't have fitted it if it wasn't worth it!?

it should be on the throttle body, the plug for it is underneath. you should get one really as it tells ecu/isv controller when to go into idle mode. fuel valve also wont work unless the throttle switch is connected! it doersnt do much though, fires off 5th inj if you floor it when cold. and you shouldnt do that really