MarsRed Cab 16v Conversion * NOW STARTED*

Also what size fuse is needed for fuel live

yes the end with the elctrics is the outlet.

boyle_sbd said

yes the end with the elctrics is the outlet.

Cheers bud

I'm been eyeing your thread.
Your welding skills are off the scale
Your mk1 should be sound once its done.
What's the plan with that in terms of colour, engine and rims

denisotto said

boyle_sbd said

yes the end with the elctrics is the outlet.

Cheers bud

I'm been eyeing your thread.
Your welding skills are off the scale
Your mk1 should be sound once its done.
What's the plan with that in terms of colour, engine and rims

haha if the scale is between novice to amature!

if you need a hand dennis jus give us a shout, ull have to take us for a spin when it is running. wana see how quik that abf is!!

boyle_sbd said

denisotto said

boyle_sbd said

yes the end with the elctrics is the outlet.

Cheers bud

I'm been eyeing your thread.
Your welding skills are off the scale
Your mk1 should be sound once its done.
What's the plan with that in terms of colour, engine and rims

haha if the scale is between novice to amature!

if you need a hand dennis jus give us a shout, ull have to take us for a spin when it is running. wana see how quik that abf is!!

I'll defo give you a shout once its running and I've taken it on a shakedown.

20a fuse for the fuel pump power

Almost ready for a test drive.
Only waiting on a few fuel fitting parts to complete the fuel delivery system.    

Going to have to refit the radiator hoses as they are a bit linked with the abf lump in there and the ecu behind the scuttle.

the top hose i find fits better if you flip it round and cut it down a bit, bottom hose fits right on if you fit a mk1/2 bottom thermostat flange

Having a problem.
Fuel pump won't receive any power.
Checked physical connections and I'm not hearing the in tank sender prime
Also confirmed there's no power in the wire but its connected into e13 and back onto the red and redwhite wires
I don't have the lambda plugged in either.
Will this introduce a cut in the circuit if lambda is not connected?
No really sure what I should be checking.  

should be e/14 unless thats a typo? did i mention you need to fit a fuel pump relay? if not then you need one

67, 80 or 167 from mk2 golf digi/16v or any petrol mk3 golf will do. fit it to slot 2. in the mean time you can swap the 17/18 x-over relay into the pump slot that'll power it off the ignition. its not safe if you crash  but you can try the engine out

the x-over relay does the wipers, lights and blowers so those wont work till you fit the 18 relay back into its slot

Cheers
Rubjonny

Before I go and spend time to fabricate something to resolve my issue….
What have people done for throttle cable
My mk1 cable fits the abf engine but there's nothing to keep it taught and guide it
Any quick ready made solutions
Can't actually remember how it was originally done in the mk3 to be honest

mk2 golf gti, with a bit of silicone lube to help it due to the tightish angle. there should be a square circlip that pops into the ruibbed section to adjust the cable tightness, you may need to get this from a scrappy if missing from your mk1/2/3 cable

I swapped the relay but no joy.
So used a probe to feed the fuel pumps and I got fuel to the rail.

However the it Dosnt sound like the rail is opening up.
I think I'm going to need to wire on the diagnostic port and use the software to reset any faults in the ecu

I hve the box with the port with the 4 wires. Where do these connect to to have a working diagnostic port

Seriously need some help. Been checking so much electrics that I don't know what to check next.
Cannot get the injection rail to open. Anyone know what things I should be checking for.

Even if I knew how to wire the diagnostic port to the ecu I could use a computer on it

Anyone got any idea

Here's the fusebox with the included relays.
 

This is the injector and fuel pump wiring to the e/13 plug.
These are always negative with ignition or not
 

This is red wire coming off  what I believe is the ecu relay is plugged into a permanent live on the fusebox.
The wire itself when disconnected has its own ignition live so I think this might be wrong.
 

These 2 black wires were both plugged into ignition only lives on the earth side of the fusebox.
 

Something I've noticed is that the black one on the right which has a more shiny plug, if connected to the ignition only live or a permanent earth makes the green/grey and the blue/brown below do exactly the same.
Is this wire not needed and for aircon type sensor?
 

Should note that the 53 relay on top the fusebox does click with ignition and gets a little warm.
Confirmed I'm getting spark as well.

From searching the forums I've managed to wire up the immobiliser box and dlc.
Used a vgate scan on it and it won't link to engine.

It links to immobiliser and finds this code.
 
I've left the yellow wire from the dlc unconnected by the way

It can also view ecu info if this is of any help
 
 
Going to have a whirl with the snap on diagnostics as well and see if I can get the ecu

no pics im afraid as visually the car hasnt changed since..

managed to get the injection rail to open and the fuel pumps to prime

the no1 relay that was in slot 2 needed to be replaced with a no167

also had to change the crankshaft sensor

It still wont start though. dont know why. havnt got much of an idea either

some of the things ive done to try and get it working

new plugs
new tci
new fuel filter
confirmed both fuel pumps are working
checked i have spark
confirmed firing order
scanned system for fault codes

does anyone have any suggestions
have i overlooked something??

everything is done now apart from it starting which is a big thing really..

Have you gapped the plugs correctly, have you checked the timing? Or is it flooding or is there an issue with the injectors? Or an air leak? I've never had a great deal to do with injection engines, but I've just started with a 16v project, so I'm keeping an eye on this!! Just issues I had with my twin 40s!

supersport2 said

Have you gapped the plugs correctly, have you checked the timing? Or is it flooding or is there an issue with the injectors? Or an air leak? I've never had a great deal to do with injection engines, but I've just started with a 16v project, so I'm keeping an eye on this!! Just issues I had with my twin 40s!

Nice shout. Could possibly be an air leak or timing. Timing belt was replaced was could be a tooth out on one of the pulleys. I'll have to have a twist of the dizzy and see where it gets me
But thanks. That's a couple of things which I can check now which I never thought of

Give me a shout for any possible help I may be able to offer for you 16v conversion. Learned quite a lot through doing it myself.

Well hope you get sorted, there's nothing more frustrating with everything seemingly in place and the f in thing won't start!! I bought my 16v mk1 off the bay, engine turned over, fired and ran, even though it had been stood about ten years! It should be okay, but you never know!! I've got some resto ing to do to it before we worry about the engine!!