Please help - Weber 32/34 carb on 1.8 clipper

Freeman you fuel lines are totally wrong my friend and not good, you will be sucking in air into the system, please do not run the car whilst like this.
First of all please check and check again the vacuum piping and please follow to my diagram  as regards vac piping i have posted previously.
As regards fuel lines you need to show in wider pics exact where the pipes are going.
But in mean time whilst you are reading this i will defo get this sorted for you, i will take pics many of them i think lol and show you where your fuel lines should go as the fuel line from the car on the left is leading somewhere else rather than it being connected to teh fuel/air vapour separotr which is that little pot you mention, this in turn will help further with crap not getting to the carb aswell as it's main job plus it saves me typing loads lol.
As i say please don't run the car till this is sorted, hopeully i will get pics up within the hour bud and then you can sort your timing if need be and emissions but hopefully she should run sweet, in meantime like i say please double check the vac piping to rule any other issues.
I will get onto it now bud
Pete

As promised as i don't like to keep people waiting lol

Not too sure why in the 1st photo the box doesnt fit in clip properly? i had to add a little bracket in to help it fit in properly.

 
The (Inverted "Y") bracket (under which the fuel pipe passes) should be mounted on "stand-offs" which are screwed onto the Camshaft cover studs (2 places) this raises the bracket by about 20mm so that the hole lines up with the rubber mounting position on the airbox. (the rubber mounting you have is not the correct one but will do the job - you need
 
443 121 273E   (GSF about £3)

This mounting has a sort of cup washer/stud to which the rubber is bonded.  (washer/stud bonded at the other end).  This enables you to easier screw it in/out of the airbox as you can get your mole grips on it in 20yrs time!!!!!.

The Stand-offs are simply a piece of Hexagon bar which is drilled/tapped 6mm at one end to screw down on to the   cam cover studs - the other end is formed into a stud so the mounting bracket can be nutted onto it instead of using the cam cover studs (which are now about 20mm lower!!!).  If you have a mate with a lathe , he should be able to knock up a couple but they should be available from you Weber supplier.

hey guys thanks for your replies, i really really appreciate it.

Only just got notified of your messages 2 days you posted. Need to sort out my notifications!

superworm: thanks mate, will sort this little job at the weekend hopefully.

Peter: Im slightly worried now lol, been running it for a few days, when i shouldn't have been.

Didn't realise things are that bad You have posted some excellent photos though and i will be doing this work at the weekend. To the book!

You mentioned your other post about the VAC set up, the first couple of posts from you in that thread doenst have the photos in, they are missing (deleted as it sais), so not sure if i am missing something or if they should be there.

Although i have followed your guide regarding the 'T-piece' and pipe from the back of the carb and piping on the servo pipe and the air box. I printed off all your photos and did that last week.

Please tell me if I'm being an absolute tart and missing something obvious.

Thanks.

sam.

Sam it's not bad whereas your car is going to stop dead and never start lol.
Issues that could arise is air in the lines and your block cutting out, even not starting and you will have to suck  fuel via the lines to get it to the carb.
Thou once done it will be fine, just another headache for a short while, hopefully you'll be fine.
Pete :wink:

P.s you are a tart

HEY! your not supposed to agree lol

Im gonna crack on this tomorrow. will keep you posted as i go.

cheers.

Ok, so HERE WE GO! Done this work this morning, followed it step by step and taken some kick ass photos that you can view properly now

Here they are:

https://profiles.google.com/spfreeman1

Just click on photos and there should be 1 album in it with the newest photos.

Fingers crossed this works, should be much better than uploading them into the forum.

In 1 of the photo (one with my hand in, I'm holding a pipe that goes nowhere (not the photo holding the pipe to the dizzy) it come out from the the side of the carb and is sucking in air quite hard, this was originaly connected to the air box but it doesn't go there because another pipe replaced it when i did some of the earlier work, so at the moment its just sat there sucking in air. Any idea where it goes

So to some up, I've done all the work on the pipes that you have showed me pete, hows it looking now?

Sorry i about sam, i've fitting new tie rod ends and had tracking done plus full service of the afrikaan, so not been about bud.
You've got everything perfect fella, but i am not happy about that extra pipe as it 100% should not be there, i have taken a pic of mine to show you what should be there.
I can not see from your pics, so can you remove the pipe and point to where exactly it is going wiht a pic taken.
I maybe think someone as been messing or simply the carb as obtained some damage at some point or maybe the little core plug as popped out and not replaced.

No worries Pete.

I have added a new album to it now, so use the same link, 4 up close photos taken.

1 has the pipe concocted, then i took one with the pipe pulled off.

Originally before you started helping me out this pipe was just connected to the first slot on the air box, but when i did the work with the t-piece from the back of the carb it replaced where this went, so now this pipe is just hanging around sucking in air.

Got a new fuel filter too so fitted that, instantly some horrible black bits came through, another problem? or just natural?

Took it for a long drive, its defiantly much better than before, the engine no longer cuts out randomly, but the idle is still hunting a little bit, nothing major though. Probably just needs tuning properly and I'm not very clued on with that.

Cheers

sam

Never seen that before on a 32/34dtml and i've seen & worked on alot of them.
What happens when you cover that pipe, does the car smoothen out?
If you don't want to block that pipe off, Looks like you will have to remove the t-piece, put a pipe direct from rear of carb to servo pipe and reconnect this weird pipe back to air box.
But still this needs answering as like i said i've never seen this before.
As regards teh littel bits in the inline filter, good job you fitted new clear one, least you can see if any slight particals of rust, dirt etc coming through lines and at least not getting to the carb, so all good.
But have you checked/replaced the fuel filler neck, what condition are the fuel lines in?
If you able to pop down to me depending on how far you are, i will gladly help in any fault findings and hopefully get them sorted
Pete

Sam i have had a look at a new spare weber i have in loft to see where this pipe connects too underneath and it doesn't, it is a dead end.

not really looked at the filler neck or the fuel lines so will have a look at these.

The pipe is sucking in air quite hard, when i cover it over the engine slows down. The plot thickens…

On your car its not covered over, so is yours sucking in air? just doesn't have a pipe? or is not doing anything?

The hole you see inside is metal bud, no holes inside or anything, same on the other werber.
I have fitted approx 30-40 of these carbs in past 10 year and never come across this.
I'm telling you fella that should not be there, someone for some reason as made a modifcation as if they did drill through that hole and break the metal casing as they have done, air would suck in like crazy and go through inlet manifold and cause the timing to advance badly thus when you block it it slows down as it should.
Then you can really set the timing correctly and get her purring even have it tick over at 100rpm no cut outs lol.
Maybe it was fitted to another car, but still can not understand why it was done.
Me i would block it off and do the way it should be done bud to be 100% sure you have everything right.
What i will do is take some pics of my spare and show you where that hole leads as i state before air would be sucked in directly to the manifold.
give me till 21.15hrs and i should have them posted up to show you
Pete

all sorted via pm

You my friend are a legend! Thanks for your help tonight. Will be in touch soon if anything happens to go wrong lol

Hey pete, did all the work this morning. The car is purring like a kitten! ticking over cold at 1000rpm and warm 850, so its perfect! runs so well.

Taken a bunch more photos to show you what i have done, take a look using the same link as before

A few questions though for when you look through the photos, Theres is a buch of red wires pictured in the album, the ones I'm holding in my hand, what do you make of these? They come from under the scuttle tray and it just has an inline fuse on it.

I used a little wooden peg so bung up that spare hole that was sucking in air, works perfectly to cover it up

also in the photo of the fuel filter, where can i find a new section of pipe from the air box to the manifold? The one with silver duct tape all over it?

Thanks

sam.

Will have a look now sam, glad all sorted fella.
Did you manage to remove the choke cable and grease it no issues?

The wire in scuttle is maybe leftovers form a previous alarm install maybe as those should not be there, trace them back to where theyare connected bud.
The pipe taped up is the warm air feed that leads from front part of airbox to the exhaust manifold.
you can get at your local gsf bud, cheap and cheerful.
Can i ask have you actually got the front part of air filter box as in all pics even from days ago it is non existant or is it not fitted whislt you got to end of problems.
Your filler neck looks like it has been replaced in past already.
What i would suggest is clean up underneath the car and rub down the surface rust on axle all joints, also unscrew the filler neck via the 3 screws at the top, clean any dirt from under the arch and get some waxoil over the filler neck piping and underneath the car covering everywhere to protect from our weather.
Some people hate waxoil as it is a pain to remove but i have done this to all my cars as to protect the shell etc.
Also a freebie, all moving parts, bushes etc underneath, blast them with wd40 1st, let them soak the put some spray grease on them, keep them subtle free from rusting etc inc all bolts on suspension, wishbones, threads and nuts on steering track rod ends etc you get the idea.
With you doing this & keeping them clean, when you come to replace parts, they come off nice and easy.
For example the rear suspenion legs, comon thing for the bolt is overtime due to weight pressing down the bolt will bend slighty and seize with rust to the bush, this in turn will result in you having to mess about like i had too when first got mine and had cut the bushes out.
Whilst you can, remove the bolt, wire brush it down and slap copper grease or silicon grease( Slighty more exspensive) all over it and the nut and fit it back, will save alot of hassle and prevention of any rust starting, then when you come to change the shocks and springs, it should take you no less than 10 minutes each one to change and with ease.
As you can see i am a stickler for doing things a certain way and not let me down yet.
Pete  :wink:

great advice, next weekend i will get the car up and clean everything down, got plenty of grease ad wd40.

and yes i have the fromt part of the air box, i just havnt got it in any of the photos lol

I tried to do the choke cable mate, but it was impossible for me to find that little bung from under the dash, it got a little worse today swell, its quite stiff to pull out and in now, so need to get this sorted too.

To find the gromet from the inside, first remove it has you will have light coming through and bigger hole then.
Then simply push a piece of wire through the bulkhead leading into the interior bud, make sure if your for say using a coat hanger wire to curl the end so it does not snag or damage any wiring it may past, then you will be able to see where to route the cable.
Now you found location where to route cable put little hole in grommet to keep water tight and feed the cable through little hole
Pete :wink: