GUIDE : Rebuilding the rear end

Step 217 - Take some time to admire the new parts coming together after many months/years (in my case at least!)



Step 218 - Try and fit as much as you can whilst not working under the car, it's easier that way. I did the pipe to the flexi hose before the adjuster as shown.When tightening these compression fittings, ensure the hose can't spin and then it will quickly grip at the terminator and hold well. It's hard to show what I mean with a picture but the second shot tries to - my hand prevents the fitting from turning and I simply squeezed the two spanners together with the other hand

Step 219 - Some of the pipes must be formed in place, to do this simply remove the old one (picture 1), remove any clips by prying with a screwdriver (picture 2) then pull the pipe out from the car (picture 3) - it will probably need to be bent to come out.

Note the pipe I am dealing with is the equivalent to the smaller piece shown earlier - it connects the flexi hose from the offside to the regulator.

Step 220 - Slide your new (terminated but not bent) pipe in as shown in the first picture then make the necessary bends and routing under the car (Second picture). Don't forget to replace the spring clips you removed previously (picture 3)

Step 221 - When you finish making brake lines you are finally in a position where you can refit the subframe back to the car! Remove the old mounting bolts if you put them back on their threads like I did (two 17mm either side of the car)



Step 222 - Ensure the handbrake cable is routed through the spring retaining clips and carefully guide it under the car



Step 223 - Line the subframe up with the back of the car and jack it up high enough so your struts can fit under

Step 224 - Ideally you could do with a second person here but you can make do with axle stands, get everything in position before you attach anything



Step 225 - If you jack up under the strut/spring you can easily push them through into the boot and attach the bolt, washer and rubber mount removed earlier on

Step 226 - Fit the 4 bolts that hold the subframe in place, I only put each one on a few threads at first and it took some serious wriggling to make it all work. NOTE: It would not fit with the poly bushes tightened up!! I could only get one side on.

Once you have the subframe in place you need to slide a 19mm spanner up the small gap between the chassis and subframe and get a socket (or spanner) on the other end of the long bolt that holds the bushes on and torque up at this stage. I've tried to show it on the picture where I have the spanner and socket in place



Step 227 - Time to finish up the handbrake cables, jump in the car and remove any trim you have around the gearstick (I didn't have any to remove). You will see the two cables coming through to a single bracket that hooks onto the hand brake. Remove the two 10mm nuts and slide the bracket off the handbrake

Step 228 - You can now pull the handbrake right up and chock it as shown so it is easy to slide the cables in/out



Step 229 - Go under the car and locate the two metal guides for the handbrake cable and simply pull the cable out from under the car, there will be little resistance



Step 230 - Now slide your new cable through the tubes (ensuring it is clipped in all the mounting points too) and seat it fully in

Step 231 - Refit the bolts to the ends of the new cable and onto the bracket around the handbrake then tighten down until all slack is taken out. Note until you do this point it will look like the hub end of the handbrake is too long, don't worry you haven't got the wrong part!



Step 232 - You can tighten everything up now and make sure you do the bottom shock subframe mounting. It's a little awkward but a 17mm socket and spanner as shown does the trick



Step 233 - Refit the 10mm on the brake adjuster and bleed the brakes, job done!

Is lack of feedback a good or bad thing?!

this is amazing bud

i've copying all you other guide sinto a new tech section

and this one is the best yet

might take me a while to copy it tho unless you have a master written somewhere???

I think the lack of feedback is due to pure amazement. 8O

Fantastic guide, with great pictures.
One seriously impressive refurbishment. 8)

I hope so! It's always unnerving when you get no feedback at all!!

two points!

1.  I find it's easier to remove/fit brake springs with the right tool!!! By this I mean an old flat blade screwdriver with a notch in the end!  This allows you to hook the spring on and get some real force to shove it across.  I usually find this achieves it quite quickly.

2. Those handbrake cable nuts are the wrong way round!!! The domed end should seat into the recess on the balance plate!!!

Other than those extremely minor things, Excellent write up mate.
Wish i'd had it the other week when i did my back brakes, bloody adjuster wedge refused to sit where I wanted lmao


Jon.

Thanks for the comments Jon, the handbrake nuts were a mock fit but they should be the other way round you're right! I need to find a new hand brake first, was just trying to complete the guide and missed that

hi JSeaman
Its brillaint posts like these that keep MK1s on the road   , i didnt reply because i didnt want to spoil the Post  
cheers
baz

Baz, much appreciated - always good to have feedback (good and bad as long as it is constructive!)

As above, didn't want to interrupt your flow with any comments, but now you're finished, that's another guide well done 8) Brought back lots of happy memories…

Tres bon!

Rich

Many thanks indeed - comment away, it's great to have feedback

great guide, I've just used it to sort out my stub axle, wheel bearings an brakes.

Thanks

Excellent news, glad it helped