GUIDE : Rebuilding the rear end

Step 164 - Make sure the nut and bolt go back together well or replace



Step 165 - Now to the poly bush, slide one side into the carrier



Step 166 - Then flip over and push the other in (push them firmly in, they are tight)

Step 167 - Now insert your metal bar into the bush



Step 168 - Use a vice to press the bar through the bush because it is tight, you can hammer but it responds much better to a constant pressure



Step 169 - Drop a wheel nut in with the deep chamfer and tap the rod through until it sits squarely in the middle of the bush

Step 170 - Now refit the long bolt through the bush (with the big washer fitted that you can't see).



Step 171 - Slide the second large washer over the bolt once in place



Step 172 - Insert the handbrake cable guide into the subframe

Step 173 - Slide the bolt/bush into the subframe



Step 174 - Refit the thick small washer and bolt



Step 175 - Torque up the two 19mm with a spanner and socket (note the angle of the mount on the other side of the subframe and ensure you are at the same angle, don't tighten fully until on the car

Step 176 - Repeat for the other side of the car



Step 177 - If you did the same as me and cut the rubber brake hose then remove this with a 14mm and 11mm spanner. Look after the metal slip, you will re-use this for the new lines




Step 178 - Remove the suspension lower mounting bolt from the subframe

Step 179 - Drop the strut/spring assembly in and refit the nut/bolt



Step 180 - Tighten the nut so it is just finger tight, it wants to hold the shock on but not lock it in place



Step 181 - Finally time to get your hub back on, pick the backplate up and align it with the 4 holes on the subframe. Make sure the 2 holes that are close together are at the bottom and that the handbrake cable comes out towards the front (towards the crossmember/anti roll bar end of the frame).

You'll need the two bolts with washers, 2 bolt without washers and handbrake cable guide you removed earlier (shown in the third picture)

Step 182 - Refit the bolts at the top first which will align everything (14mm or 15mm), nip them but don't tighten them yet



Step 183 - Now refit the cable guide for the handbrake and the 2 bolts that go with it (no washer on these 2)



Step 184 - Torque up the 4 bolts so they are all tight (do them diagonally opposite to get the best torque pattern don't go clockwise/anticlockwise)

Step 185 - Now the drum with its new inner race and bearing slides onto the backplate, carefully slide it all the way down the shaft




Step 186 - Repeat on the other side



Step 187 - Time to grease up the outer bearings now, just like before pack them well using suitable bearing grease

Step 188 - Once greased, insert the outer bearing into its race by sliding it down the stub axle, you will find it easier if you wiggle the drum a little as you do this



Step 189 - Now your washer which is keyed so will only fit in one way, slide this down the shaft as well



Step 190 - Ensure the bearing and washer are fully seated

Step 191 - Fit your retaining nut onto the stub axle but just finger tight



Step 192 - Tighten the nut (by hand) until you can just move the washer with a screwdriver. This is a little subjective but is generally a good way of judging the fit, if you over torque this you will kill the bearing.

The washer should just move without any leverage as shown in the first picture, NOT by pressing against the hub as demonstrated in the second picture

You may have to nip the nut a little with some mole grips if you can't do it by hand (picture 3)

Step 193 - Fit the locking tab over the nut



Step 194 - Now slide a new split pin through the shaft (there is a hole cross drilled through it)



Step 195 - Bend the split pin legs out (ensuring it is fully through the hole) with pliers or a hammer

Step 196 - Once the legs are bent right back, apply more grease to the bearing area, fill it as well as possible



Step 197 - Wipe off any excess grease and fit the dust cap. If it's anything like mine, the dust cap will need to be smacked pretty hard to go in

Step 198 - All done! Back together and you should have drums that spin freely on their new bearings, give them a bit of a test by hand and make sure they both spin freely



Step 199 - Now for some nice new rubber brake hoses (picture 1), insert them through the subframe hole (picture 2) and place the metal retainer over the face of the hose (picture 3)





Step 200 - You may well find you have to fabricate some brake lines in which case you will need a few bits of kit. This includes copper tube and terminators (shown in the picture) and a brake pipe flaring kit, you can normally pick these up for about £15 - make sure it comes with a pipe cutter or you'll need a hacksaw and files to make the cuts

Step 201 - Start by measuring out the copper hose against the old pipe, manoeuvre the old pipe along the copper rather than bending it (I've tried to show this in the second picture) so you can figure out the length - try and get this as close as possible but take into account that flaring the ends will use some material so always make it slightly longer than you need rather than shorted




Step 202 - Once you have a size for the pipe, use a cutter (or hacksaw if you can't get one) to trim the pipe to size. The type I used have a wheel (the plastic bit at the bottom) that you turn to clamp the pipe against a cutting disc, the more you twist the wheel, the further it cuts.Basically start so it is just biting the pipe and score a line by spinning the cutter round, then tighten by about 1/8th of a turn and repeat spinning the cutter forwards and backwards until eventually you clamp right through the pipe

Step 203 - If you use a cutter properly then you should get a nice clean edge as shown. Even so, I always use a file to clean up the outside and inside edges, blow any swarf out of the pipe from the other end, you don't want it in the braking system



Step 204 - Slide the copper into the clamp of your flaring kit (it will be obvious which hole to use based on the size of pipe you buy, 5/8 in my case) and tighten the wing nuts to lock the pipe in place. The second picture shows how much I leave protruding normally




Step 205 - Now insert the appropriate sized flaring attachment as shown, this should slide in quite well if your cut is clean

Step 206 - The final piece of the kit is the clamp that applies force to flare the pipe, hook this over the pipe clamp and tighten onto the pipe as shown. Apply a continual force as you crush the pipe (In other words don't jerk it round as you compress it), and you should get a nice clean finish - it will naturally stop you from turning when you've reached the point to stop




Step 207 - Slacken off the clamp and twist the flaring insert out (it will be harder to remove)

Step 208 - You should end up with something like this




Step 209 - Note you need to slide on the terminations before you flare both ends!! Make sure you get them the right way round too (if not,  you'll only make that mistake once as you cut up your new pipe!)

Step 210 - You now have a complete (but unbent) pipe. Use the old pipe as a guide and bend it into place, you'll find it bends really easily even without a pipe bender but you can buy one if you prefer. Try to make smooth sweeping bends where possible

Step 211 - Repeat for as many lines as you need, I did some short and some long ones



Step 212 - Back to our subframe, remove the dust seal for the fitting on the hub for the brake line



Step 213 - Insert your nice shiney new brake line and tighten with an 11mm spanner

Step 214 - Route the pipe through the clips on the subframe and tap down with a hammer gently (or your fingers or a screwdriver)




Step 215 - Refit the spacers used to hold the flexi hose on properly



Step 216 - Tighten using a 13mm and 11mm spanner (I should have painted them!)