16v conversion wiring using both fuse boxs???

well im just using the ce2 fuse box it runs through that doesnt it ?i took it out for a run today seemed ok didnt rev it to much over fueling abit lol gotta re adjust the gear inkage abit . the throttle cable wasnt opening the throttle enough using corrado one ? or is there a better one ? thanks ade

you might have to bend the throttle pedal up a bit to get full throttle, had to do this on my mk1 with kr and a mates mk1 with abf.

check the black wire to the isv control unit gets 12v with the ignition on

good idea why didnt i think of that ? der ye sound ill check that wire what if it hasnt got 12v? took it for a run today for its mot hard to rev from cold but when warmed up it was sweet messed with co but still not perfect if u know what i mean quick thou

find somewhere that does have 12v with the ignition and splice it to that

right ive checked that black wire ye 12v there just no power out to the iav ?? flew through mot oh ye really want to get working proper ?? bloody cars lol

sort out the red/black wire and see where that gets you

i connected up that red/black wire to the -ve side of coil the white plug but not the green wire side but still no good but got no power at iav still i only put a + to the + side of the iav got a little spark and now no power to it ?? checked fuse18 but ok? what goes that green wire do on the iav conrol unit ?? with a black plug on the end ? thanks for all your help i wish i knew someone with a 16v so i could av a look and take some voltages from ?

green wire on unit isant used, i beleive its for aircon. maybe the isv is bust?

i can unplug the vdo control unit and the car still runs the same weird but smokes abit when hot smells unburnt fuel? aaaahhhh why is there still no + at the iav ??

could be the control unit is bust i suppose, best to start by tracing the black & white wires from it, they should run to a 2 pin plug behind the fusebox. obv make sure this is plugged in, then do a continuity test from there to the plug in the bay. could be a break in the wire somewhere.

could do a quick bodge test, run 2 wires from 2 pin plug behind fusebox direct to isv and see if it buzzes when ign switched on. if it does you know the issue is between there and engine bay plug

what a 2 pin plug in the fuse box? or by it? i checked the black and white wire at the vdo control unit but no+ there coming out is thatthe same thing?

not on the fusebox no, behind the fusebox just where the wiring goes thru the bulkhead there is a 2 pin plug which runs to the isv.

cool cheers ill av a look

hi again ive got a problem my baby cut out on me today thought it would b simple but ive lost the live for my coil i had a my computer crash and lost all my wiring diagrams from when i did it al gutted. what gives the coil the live feed ? tryed another coil and amp still no good ?? cheers ade

ignition switch black wire powers the coil, if you click the link in my sig look for golf91.pdf and jetta89.pdf that should help

i popped a fuse for + its the green wire i have 12v ign off but it doesnt switch to earth to start coil it goes to start when i turn ign on and then again when i turn it off sparks at wrong time ???? tryed another tci no good cut popped a bit out the exhaust ? i dont know if this is linked but last week my rotory arm broke of and smashed cap fitted a new cap and arm and all good is was driving like a twat lol a bit puzzled sounds like my ecu is up the swan is that common? or how can i check all feeds ?
thanks ade

your hall sender might be damaged in that case, which would cause this. pop the cap off and look inside, also a bent trigger wheel isnt good either!

ye it does look abit bent lol is there away of checking it out? or should i just try and get another one? thanks again

heres a bit o info on the 16v ign system:

TCI-H unit - testing
1 The switch unit is located in the left-hand side of the plenum chamber beneath a plastic cover. The ignition coil should be in good condition before making this test.
2 Depress the wire clip and pull the connector from the switch unit.
3 Connect a voltmeter between terminals 4 and 2 on the connector then switch on the ignition and check that battery voltage is available. Switch off the ignition.
4 Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between terminal 1 on the connector and terminal 1 on the coil.
5 Refit the connector to the switch unit, then connect a voltmeter across the low tension terminals on the coil.
6 Release the spring and pull the connector from the control unit, then switch on the ignition. Check that initially a reading of 2 volts is registered on the voltmeter, dropping to zero after one to two seconds. If this is not the case, renew the switch unit and also if necessary, the ignition coil.
7 Using a temporary length of wire, briefly earth terminal 12 on the connector. The voltage should rise to at least 2 volts. If this is not the case, renew the switch unit.

ECU - testing
1 Test the TCI unit before checking the control unit.
2 Release the spring and pull the connector from the control unit located in the right-hand side of the plenum chamber.
3 Switch on the ignition, then use a voltmeter to check that battery voltage is available between terminals 3 and 5 on the connector.
4 Check also that battery voltage is available between terminals 6 and 3, then operate the throttle valve switch and check that the voltage drops to zero. Switch off the ignition.
5 Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the connector terminals 1 to 3. These are the temperature sender terminals and the resistance varies according to the coolant temperature.
6 Press the clip and pull the connector from the side of the distributor. Connect the voltmeter to the two outer terminals of the connector, then switch on the ignition. A reading of 5 volts should be registered. Switch off the ignition.

Hall Sender - testing
Note: A digital multi-meter should be used for testing. Do not use a test lamp

1. Release the lead connector from the Hall sender unit. Check the voltage supply to the sender unit by connecting a multi-meter between pin 1 and 3 of the hall sender plug, then switch on the ignition. A minimum reading of 5 volts should be indicated, if not check the FEI control unit and wiring.

2. To check the signal from the Hall sender unit, slide the rubber grommet away from the sender plug and with the plug connected, attach the diode test light to its centre and outer (brown/white) terminals. Operate the starter motor and check that the LED is seen to flicker. If it does not, the Hall sender unit is at fault and must be renewed.


switch unit.
3 Disconnect the multi-plug from the switch unit and connect a voltmeter between terminals 4 and 2.
4 Switch on the ignition and check that battery voltage, or slightly less, is available. If
not, there is an open-circuit in the supply wires.
5 Switch off the ignition and reconnect the multi-plug to the switch unit.
6 Pull the multi-plug from the Hall sender on the side of the distributor, then connect a voltmeter across the +ve and -ve terminals on the coil.
7 Switch on the ignition and check that there is initially 2 volts, dropping to zero after 1 to 2 seconds. If this is not the case, renew the switch unit and coil.
8 Using a length of wire, earth the centre terminal of the distributor multi-plug briefly. The voltage should rise to at least 2 volts. If not, there is an open-circuit or the switch unit is faulty.
9 Switch off the ignition and connect the voltmeter across the outer terminals of the distributor multi-plug.
10 Switch on the ignition and check that 5 volts is registered on the voltmeter.
11 If a fault still exists, renew the switch unit.
12 Switch off the ignition, remove the voltmeter and reconnect the distributor multi-plug.

Hall sensor:
1 Check that the ignition system wiring and plugs are fitted correctly.
2 The coil and TCI-H unit must both be in good condition.
3 Pull the HT lead from the centre of the distributor cap and earth it to the engine or
bodywork.
4 Pull back the rubber boot from the switch unit and connect a voltmeter between terminals 6 and 3.
5 Switch on the ignition and turn the engine by hand in its normal direction of rotation. The voltage should alternate from between 0 and a minimum of 2 volts. If not, the sender is faulty and must be renewed.

your the man cheers got a new dizzy sorted drives abit smoother aswell so happy days thanks again