Calling all professional painters - attempting DIY full car

You're welcome! I know how frustrating and tedious it all gets.

To be honest, that was my last mk1 that i had to let go nearly 3 years ago as i had nowhere to keep it.

Im pleased to say that i have recently got another and have started it all again, with plans for the bay to end up smoother still and its coming along ok so far.
Am going away for a week from tonight though so will be on hold for a short while.

Regarding clips and tabs etc..

I was going to and again will be using 'P' clips which you screw in wherever needs be. And being a carbed 16v going in, theres alot less wires and such required anyway

Stick with it and you wont regret it in the end :clap:

Buy a propane heater for when your painting. Heat you garage to 25 deg and then paint. After your done get it to 50. I did mine that way it kicked the paint over the right way. I was told to do this buy creative coach works. If you don't warm the body properly you get moisture in the paint.
Also means you can do the job quicker.

Thanks rbbeng60- I was just going to wait for a hot day! Given there are is no such thing anymore I'll have to look into getting a heater… more expense. Just shelled out for a new welder.

Couldn't face working on the turrets again. Think I will just remove the sealer alltogether.

Decided to start on the lower half, by the driverside steering rack mount.

Before

IMG_6155 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6157 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6158 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

During

IMG_6159 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

After

IMG_6167 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6168 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6166 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6163 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Applied Dinitrol Rust Converter and left overnight

IMG_6175 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


Seamsealer followed by more expoxy mastic tomorrow.

:evil:  Very VERY annoyed this morning.

Whent to the car and saw this:

IMG_6176 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6177 by dherajdagar, on Flickr


IMG_6178 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Will have to grind it all back to metal. :angry:    Anyone know how this happened? I haven't done anything different to what i have done previously. Iwonder if I needed to apply more thickly.

Will probablly user Metal Ready before applying the Epoxy:

IMG_6179 by dherajdagar, on Flickr

Actually, the application of Metal Ready is a bit confusing. Can it be used as a basecoat like normal etch primer to bare metal. On one hand the instructions say (as a metal prep) to apply and then thoroughly rise off. It also says "coats wih zinc phosphate, the best base for por-15".

On my engine block I left it on and painted straight over it with POR-15 engine enamel. Planing to to the same here but paintover with epoxy. Anyone able to clarify the instructions

Metal ready is a rust converter, its not a primer.

What welder did you get in the end?

Hi Sean. So confused.

This website
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/27741-21-page-guide-telling-you-how-to-prep-and-re-spray/

Says:

Metal Conditioning

After a surface has been completely stripped of paint, primer, and plastic fillers, the next step is metal conditioning. On bare metal, rust forms quickly. It is important to clean off this surface rust and be sure the surface is chemically clean. To etch the surface for better paint adhesion, use metal conditioner. I use POR 15 Metal ready, it cleans light surface rust and leaves a zinc coat on the metal surface. The metal should then be sprayed with a light coat of primer to prevent rust. Improper use of metal conditioner can cause paint failure later. Primer is porous so will not prevent rust in wet/damp conditions.

Anyway, ordered the Clarke 160tm in the end. Should be delivered some time this week. Will have to get the gas though.

So been quite some time since the last update. Ran out of space on my Flicker account so didn't get the updates made before Winter set in last year.

So here are the shots of the lower bit near the steering rack which I had to re-grind.

Bare metal:





I cleaned up the hole which the fuel pipes go through. It was a but nobbly so I got the dremel out. A bit OCD but…



Tried the Metal Ready:



Seam sealer applied:







Epoxy applied:

Near side turret work:









Near side lower area near the rack mount, before:





Bare metaled:





Epoxy mastic applied:



Seam sealer applied (to be over painted with more epoxy):

More seam sealer applied:







More grinding to bare metal on the bulkhead:









Applied several coats of Dinitrol in the hear to reach area:



Same for the other side of the bulkhead:









All painted with epoxy mastic:

Awkward area under the rain tray:

Yesterday worked on another awkward area (there are quite a few of these).

















Determined to get the most awkward areas sorted as I really want to get the car on a spit next week to do the underside Doing this takes ages and is a pig of a job but everyone says the prep is the most important thing. The last think I want is to get top paint bubbling after a while

Started on the last major awkward area.




Still need to flatten the spot welds and a little raised lip:


More tomorrow…

Area behind the OS turret and bulkhead.

Before:




Removal of underseal:




Bare metal:




Spot welds before:

Spot welds after a bit of Dremmel action:

Prior to epoxy paint:

Painted

The rollover spit I got required some modification. Needed to add some wood so it wouldn't foul the body:


The rear bar of the spit also required mods. Was going to start the rear but found that the read mounts were filthy so decided to start cleaning them!

Also did another layer of epoxy on some parts.

Before:




After:





Down to bare metal and then protected with Dinitrol: