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Piece of string question.....does this need changing??

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Piece of string question.....does this need changing??

Hello chaps

had problems with the cabby cutting out yesterday…..and day before…. :(

Happily driving along and it just dies when I take my foot off gas - fires up again no worries - but then again dies…

After searching through lots of threads here I figured a good place to start was the carb gasket - so armed with rubjohnnys guide got to here….





So does this look like a likely culprit - I'm guessing its hard to tell but is this gasket goosed??  :lol:

Tomorrow hopefully take the whole thing off and give it a clean.

All pipes in good nick and connected as per guide

Going to check filter under rear seat this evening

All advice appreciated

Sam

86 Cabby 1.6 auto - Super cool daily retro various

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re problem

i changed mine and it did not look as bad as yours cost about £25 i think from GSF parts but i think you can get them off ebay—
might be a idea to change the fuel filter as well–could also be the fuel pump on its way out—then its a case of keep going some times its like looking for a needel in a hay stack–im sure some other MK1 guys will also post some more ideas for you to try good luck

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you can see cracking on the outside of the gasket but doesnt appear to be extending to the inside from what I can see. As the main reason for changing is air leaking I am not convinced that needs changing just yet.

perhaps give it a good clean and see how you get one unless you can see the slightest sign of the cracking on the inside.

As for cutting out I would start with fuel supply, fuel filter and check for tell tail signs of a filler neck thats gone rusty.

1988 1.8 carb Golf Clipper

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Thanks Guys

yeah I think a clean up is in order - will check the inline fuel filter too.

Tried to remove the fuel sender also as per advice in sticky……only managed to break some plastic as mentioned in sticky  :banghead:  

Will remove carb today and clean and then give her another go!

Filler neck and tank both look pretty fresh from outside - no crud inside filler neck either

I'll check the fuel separator and those bits at the front of system too

TBH I'm thinking along the webber lines too…

cheers

86 Cabby 1.6 auto - Super cool daily retro various

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Hard to tell if gasket goosed as side view of pics.
Take one from directly above can you bud.
Also it will help you removing the flange from the inlet so you can look for the damage underneath as if a tiny split on top i guarantee there will be a split underneath.
Actually had this on my mates R reg polo yesterday, petrol wasting away, i knew it was same issue, splits in carb flange of which the young kids bless him never heard of a carb flange at ECP.
Got part, fitted, car running how it should

Pete :wink:

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Here you go Pete

cracks underneath - a couple that reach into the side by a few mm, but dont seem that deep - from top the beginning of a few cracks - maybe worth changing??




86 Cabby 1.6 auto - Super cool daily retro various

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I had a similar problem with my 90 cab, thinking it was the auto choke i fitted a new weber and changed the carb flange (which was seriously split). The car still ran badly. Turned out the swill pot ( in line between the fuel pump and carb) was full of water! Luckily this can be bypassed using a weber carb. Did that and the car is running sweet.
Good Luck!

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Right - so here's the latest!

Last week removed the Pierburg and gave it a proper clean - checked the waxstat etc - replaced hoses - carefully aradilted one in place for the pull down unit (used a piece of wire so I didn't block the hole!)

Fitted a new carb gasket - had a blonde moment and fitted the two metal holders the wrong way around….and couldn't understand why the carb wouldn't fit back on… :redfaced:

Anyway fired her up and wow - like another car! Came to idle at 950 - 1000 - happy days

Then saw plumes of smoke from the bay - realised hadn't tightened hoses to the autochoke or waxstat correctly - they were dripping coolant onto the manifold!

Anyway now in the situation where she is idling at 1200 - 1500 when left in Park.

When I shift to Drive, with the brake on she drops to 1000 - and drives about perfectly happily!

I'm going to take a look at the autochoke - see if I have lined that up right on re-assembly.

Any other ideas??

cheers guys

Oh and Slambug swill pot - you mean the vapour separator? I might change mine anyway as i looks like an original!

86 Cabby 1.6 auto - Super cool daily retro various

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Sam, due to forum not being on not been able to reply, i would defo change the flange i would have given that advice and glad you did bud.
DO NOT by pass the vapour separator, it is there for a purpose which i have explained in other threads, but i see you opting to buy a new reaplcement which is best idea bud and right one in my opinon.
As regards running side of it, there are numerous things that can add to this fault fella, alot of time explaining on forum thou it has been explained in previous threads, plenty of info how-to's etc.
Me personally i removed always original carb and replaced with new weber's merely due the the complications of so many fault findings issues with the pierburg's i.e you replace the waxstat then it something else, in my opinon only and never let me down in 15 years, simpilar, easier and cheaper to buy a replacement weber, and i have 2 golfs, that never let me thou for example out of bordam i removed my weber from my mk1 yesterday, just to clean it, even thou the inside were clean, and carb running perfectly, but to me might aswell, saves waiting for issues to start, only been on 3 years lol.
Anyway enough of teh jackanory fella, your quite welcome to pop round and i will show you what is what and what to look out for in these simple best reliable cars on the road  
Pete

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No worries Pete

I've tried to check back through all the previous posts as much as possible - just seems that there can be so many solutions to the same symptoms with these carbs…..

I'm not doing massive miles in her at the mo so will see how she settles down - slowly slowly upgrading/replacing the bits I can myself.

But very possible I'll go for the weber - better fuel consumption over a functioning Pierburg I believe??

Be quite the trip down memory lane to have a car with a manual choke again!

cheers

86 Cabby 1.6 auto - Super cool daily retro various

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im having the same problems with my 1.8 auto, when driving its ok even long stretch, but every now and then would cut out or splutter and missfire, tried most things not look at the gasket yet, do you think its common problem or maybe cos its auto? very odd intermitant problem



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92 clipper, chrysler red, tt interior, 16" splits, slammed!

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out of interest, how do you find your auto, mine cruises really well and still has some poke, keep wrestling with a change to manual but then get on the motorway and think why? or when the sun is out just cruising along, low and slow i say



VOTE FOR MY CAR ON COTM :)
92 clipper, chrysler red, tt interior, 16" splits, slammed!

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Carb flange is very common bud, especially as carb flange is usually original, get it off 1st to have a look.
Also if you have timing gun and never played with the timing, check it fella.
Once timing checked and if any alterations done, then do the emission via co screw on carb as it would have altered since doing timing, you can do by ear very easily, won't be perfect, but better than it was, but get it into a garage with tester and have it done so spot on.
Check your vac piping bud for any leaks old piping etc, info in how-to section plus might aswell clean carb with carb cleaner
Pete

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i have also got a bit of overrun when turning off the enginr=e, i knoe=w thats timing but what that be the problem of missfire and stall?



VOTE FOR MY CAR ON COTM :)
92 clipper, chrysler red, tt interior, 16" splits, slammed!

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sorry i cant type tonight, all thumbs



VOTE FOR MY CAR ON COTM :)
92 clipper, chrysler red, tt interior, 16" splits, slammed!

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Misfire & overrun is car running rich, needs leaning due to air leak and thus stalling and everything is out on the block
All the above gather to cause the symptons your suffering, i think you defo need to get that flange off bud

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think i might replace my flange as well then

worth a try :)

i've got a miss fire when ticking over, on the emission machine my mixture is right but ther other reading is to high as there is unburnt fuel

what could the cause of this be pedders the carb king??  :notworthy:

Banner

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redhouse said

out of interest, how do you find your auto, mine cruises really well and still has some poke, keep wrestling with a change to manual but then get on the motorway and think why? or when the sun is out just cruising along, low and slow i say

To be honest mines not that pokey only being a 1.6 - but its just got so much character - everyone loves it

Also i thought if I get a manual it will have been hammered by everyone who had driven it in the last 20 odd years

Happy and not to bad at 60 - above that it gets too noisy from the hood and the engine sounds under too much strain

1.8 clipper I drove for a while had plenty though - remember thinking how the brakes needed getting used to!

But like you say forte is low and slow  :)

86 Cabby 1.6 auto - Super cool daily retro various

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cheers pete, will get it off tomorow and hopefully solve it, then lean it after the change? its such a small thing that makes a big difference, when it runs well its one of the smoothest cars ive driven, hope to be ready for sandown



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92 clipper, chrysler red, tt interior, 16" splits, slammed!

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Jelly, check spark plugs and leads for damage as it might be a simple case of this, get flange off and post pics if unsure if it needs replacing bud.
But to get this block purring it is easy fault finding, replace in-line fuel filter, make sure no rust in tank, replace filler neck if rusted at top, new rotorarm, cap leads and plugs, fuel vapour separator chaning if original, thou you can bypass it thou i would not do such as, remove carb, clean it out with cleaner, keeping carb always upside down so any dirt etc can not sit back in carb, remove the idle and main juet, blow through holes then inspect carb flange and vac piping, again replace if they lok tired or damaged..
Lastly check the timing, get block at operating temp, set block to TDC usually with vac pipe off dizzy (Depends on what year block you have thou, does say in Haynes) and set idle on carb to 900-1000 whilst setting the block to TDC.
Then set to for example 9BTDC on mine as it is a JB block, do co's on car, it should run perfectly.
All the above does not cost much at all, it is basically just a few hours of time.
Wiht mine so fuel side of it is clean always, every 4th fill up i put in Super unleaded, cleans the system and you defo se and feel difference in way engine runs.
Once a year i put in tank redex to clean out system and pour it down spark plug holes to blast any crud from block out the back box.
Thou the above are not really needed as i did everything from day one replacing new, i do this to stop anything from happening, abit of ott but she never lets me down and i can gladly drive abroad without issue.
Don't forget mine is a dily, kids to school, work etc etc, it takes us everywhereand no other car i have had does this unless a fault, this is why mk1's are best car on the road, so simple to maintain.
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