Damn I need help

Ok I swapped my 1.6 for a 1.8 lump,carb.it's all up and running but I can't get the temp gauge or oil pressure light to work.I'm left with a few wires and connectors loose because I think they mite go in different places to the 1.6 engine? ?

 

red/yellow wire is dash temp, later lump may have a black 2 pin sensor, if so need to find suitable plug and splice it in. 2nd wire just earth to the head.

oil pressure wires are yellow and blue, high pressure sensor is white and in the filter housing, low pressure is brown or blue the side of the head.  low pressure switch is what controls oil light at idle/engine off

It's you again how u doin matey I'll have a look thisafternoon thanks for that you are the vw oricle lol.
It wouldn't be so bad if the evenings wernt so dark,bring on the summer

not bad chap! know what you mean I cant wait for spring/summer so i can get crackin on me mk2!

Heaven to me is messin with me ml 1 on a summers night in my culdisac with me staffy runnin round and me missus bringing me a coffee bless her she puts up with my projects lol

Ok I'm looking at engine I can see low pressUre sensor which is blue on the right side of head,can also see low pressure which is White on the filter housing. There's a two pin connection on the top of where one of the radiator pipes joins the head I'm assuming that's for dash temp?

I'm having a problem with the wires that i'm left with…
There's a wire running from a loom with three wires coming from it. One black running to a round thing on the right of carb,another is red running somwhere underneath the carb,and the third is blue with a red stripe and a female spade connector-this is one of the spare wires currently unconnected.

Second spare wire is under carb on the left there's a brown earth to the rockercover and a black wire with a female spade connector which is unconnected.

There is also a two pin socket left on a round thing with a rod coming out of it on left of carb and another identical socket just behind and above it,I only have two spare wires!!

Car was a 1.6 now has 1.8 with a 1.8 carb with auto choke.it had auto choke when it was a 1.6 also

on the carb you have an autochoke unit, which is the round bit with 2 coolant hoses and an electrical plug. then on the bottom of the inlet manifold there is a heater.
on the opposite side of the carb there is the TTV and the overrun valve. then on the front there is the carb heater.

there should be 3 sensors on the coolant hoses, black for the dash gauge, a grey one for the autochoke and a red fr the inlet heater.  Later engines have all 3 in the coolant flange on the front of the head, early ones have a inline sensor holder thing round the side of the head in a coolant hose.

If you check for continuity between the single pin connectors and the temp sensor plugs you'll figure out which is which

the ttv and overrun valve both have a 2 pin plug which is ign live, and the heater on the front also has an ign live.  then there is an earth from the carb to the head which provides an earth for the autochoke and the carb heater

Hi mate there is a brown earth from the carb to the head and a black wire left free with a spade connector by it,it wouldn't be so bad if I was left with enough free wires coming from my loom caus I could try them until things started working but I'm only left with a black wired spade con by the carb and a blue w red spade con coming from loom at right of carb.the engines running sweet I had it tuned but now it's just idling at 2000 revs all the time..

test the spade connection you have spare, if ign live then use it to power the over-run cutoff, ttv and carb heater. you'll have to find some suitable plugs to splice in, the 2nd pin on the ttv/over-run just run to earth, side of cylinder head where the other brown wires go is fine.

it will rev high with these items disconnected becausde the ttv/overrun control the 3/4 point unit

I'm in over my head lol so I can power those things all from one wire?just link them all up to same wire?

There's a two pin plug on the coolant hose where it meets the head do I run a live to one half and earth to other?

Sorry if I'm being thick

yeah all from the same wire, it should be ok.

cant do that with the coolant ones, the black one is dash temp so it should have a red/yel wire to 1 pin and the other just earth.

With the red & grey ones what you should do is use a relay to send power to 1 pin of each sensor and run the other pin to the carb heater or autochoke matching the wire colour up above.

If you dont have these sensors then You'll need to add them ideally, though you might get away without. Try wiring up the ttv/overrun and carb heater first and see how that goes

Ok will do I mite put some pics up tonight thanks again mate

I ran an ign live to the two 2 pin plugs on the left of carb,live to one pins earth to the others,started the car and it now comes down from the auto choke and stays at 1200 rpm once warm.took it for a drive and stayed the same so that's that problem sorted,the only thing is when I start it from cold it chugs for abt 60 secs and struggles to run and then the choke comes on? This improves after a minute as it warms up,is this normal for a cold start? Need to adjust idlespeed a bit I'm not sure how or what they idle at as standard

if you havent wired up the autochoke or inlet manifold heater this could be why. i also noticed my car ran a bit funny when i had my autochoke permanently on (temporary measure after the switch died)

Well the auto choke does work after abt a minute then comes down in stages so i'm assuming it's the heater so I'll wire that up next.thanks alot for your advice i never would have sorted it on my own.much appreciated, owning a mk1 is such a learning curve lol

autochoke will come off eventually due to coolant flow round the carb, the electrical heater is designed to bring it off choke quicker
hence why there is a switch which cuts out the choke heater once coolant gets up to a certain temp. there is another thermoswitch for the inlet heater, which does the same thing but for the inlet heater.

Ok I'll read that a few times tonight and go from there lol

It seems to not be on choke at all for the first minute while it's chugging and then comes on choke when it improves so the revs start off low n chugging then go high when choke comes on then come down in stages to normal

chugging means its prob on choke dude, when it clears up thats when the coolant pulls the choke back to where it should be.

you can rule it out simply by putting an ign live feed on the choke heater (assuming its ok!) if its better you know you need to sort the choke heater feed.

to check the heater you need to use a multimeter, put 1 probe on the spade for the choke heater, the other on the body of the autochoke.
also check for continuity between the battery -ve and the carb, if not the earth from carb to roccker cover is poor/missing