Kepping losing power and stopping

Thinking back to when I did the polo, test the hall sender when the car is fine and running ok. Then let it run on the drive till it cuts out and won't restart and test it again. 

Zaxe256 said

So does this mean I shouldn't be buying a condenser? It is on order so I haven't fitted it. It's just a friend of mine suggested replacing it so I thought for like £3 I might aswell get it, haven't looked to see where exactly it goes though, haven't had a chance.

Also I'm sure there is no rubbish in that tank however how can I tell if there is water? I don't see how water can get there and if it did then I would have surely seen a fair bit of white smoke? 

Also what is a hall sender?

Cheers again Gents  
Zack 

Yes, if you have electronic ignition, the ICU and Hall Sender replace the points and condenser that was used on the earlier set-up. I'm pretty sure the EX engine was electronic ignition from day one, so you should find that you don't have a condenser fitted, and that instead you should read the advice Gav has detailed about Hall senders. But don't ignore the possibility of carb icing. I'm guessing the EX engine, as it was fitted to Cabbys in line with the lifetime of the MK2 golf tintop, probably has the manifold preheater. You could check this with a multimeter to be sure it is working as it should.

Ok gents,
So I've tried the new HT leads which didn't work (no surprise) also removed the immobiliser which felt good but still not running correctly, I found the hall sender but don't know how to get it out.
Any advice or other tips?
Cheers,
Zack

Also the oil light has been on since owning the car, I'm certain there is no oil problem and the buzzer and light itself is dodgy, but could this have an effect on this power loss?
Cheers,
Zack

Any news if this was fixed ? my 1.6 auto is doing the exact same thing ??

i had this problem and ended up taking it to a garage to figure it out, the chap had worked on countless webers but never seen a problem like it. eventually after a nervous week he found that the distributor timing was out. the way he described it to me was that the spark was happening when the inlet valves were still slightly open, loosing compression and also some of the ignition happened in the inlet manifold, which heated up the manifold to such an extent that the fuel from the carb was evaporated before it even reached the combustion chamber, which in turn made the car shudder and (the best way i can describe it) kangaroo down the road, and backfire massively.
does your carb have a progressive chamber?