White Cabby Build

Its a horrible messy job cleaning engines etc, but the results are really rewarding when you start painting parts and bolting things back together again.

Looking good mate.

Hi

Tried Por15 for the first time, seems a little like Hammerite paint which I have used in the past.  The Por 15 was pretty hard to work with, and I really am sh? with paint so the combination wasn't good.  In the end a found a compromise between too little applied and a sag.

A small section of the gearbox is still to paint, along with the alternator and starter.  I think I will paint the starter to match the gloss gearbox and matt finish the alternator along with the other parts that will be off to the Powder coaters eventually.

Anyway a few pics, as you can quess i am going for a completely black engine in a white cabby.  Only the inlet will be silver, at the moment without any detailed silver aux parts.  







Metal ready applied.

White coating is ok (it says) but what is too much?  Anyway i carried on after using a dry brush to remove the white powder build up.



Me pulling my hair out trying to get the paint to cover without brush strokes and not sag on the back of the block.  








 TBH it wasn't that easy for a completely useless painter like me, and i would have got better results without Por15 painted to the block and with some kind of spray on rattle can enamel.  But Por15 is supposed to be good so i went with it.  Also as its gloss its hides things that matt paint doesn?t, so I think its ok for a first attempt…  I think


 

Cheers

nice work bud

por 15 is alot better when sprayed

i was painting things for a while but then started spraying them and the finish is top

when you spray it thin it down with por solvent and it's a dream

hth

Emm you've seriously cracked on with this mate… looking good!!!  Wish my garage was next door instead of 20+ miles away  :cry: .  Bet you cant wait to get this done  

Haven?t finished that much over the last week as its mainly just painting and leaving plenty of time for drying.




As if by magic though i picked a k-bar locally (thanks Paul), something i have been looking for for about a year or so.  It will be fitted once the car is back from the p-shop, and this will be the only brace on the car as I?m not fitting a top one this time.





I fitted the valve stem oil seals, using an 11mm to fit and a 12mm to fully push them home, then the valve springs, collets and caps, using the spring compressor. Oiled every moving metal part that comes into contact with any other metal part. And used assembly lube for the cam bearings/seats.  




Fully fitted i assume



Not Seated





Having had the new guides fitted, now new valves and the seats cut, the shims are way out, some not registering any gap what so ever.  I have all the measurements and shim thickness, so it just a case of getting the tool to extract them one at a time and then order the correct shim.






I went for the 049109111B pulleys (left) instead of the original 049109111A (right) and decdied to finish them in matt black enamel.  I liked the look and being lighter I thought, why not, I need one anyway so why not get them both replaced!

Comparison.




The weight difference.






The vinegar 24hr process.







The fitted pulley.






As I said not a lot done the week, just need to sort out the shims before i can move onto the block?

Emm, for such a big build this is a really neglected thread. I'll have to keep an eye on it and give you a nudge whenever you're slacking.

Keep it up mate.

T

Alot of effort gone into the rebuild, good luck with the rest of the build  :wink:

Thanks,

I was a bit concerned about the pulleys and the fitment, the 049109111B is also fitted to the 924 Porsche (same part numbr too) and that was where i had the thought, without even thinking about the mk2 running them and the G60 running the 049109111C.  I'm sure that saving well over 1/2lb (0.68lb) in 2 pulleys will improve MOI, but it probably doesn't make much difference, but interesting the amount removed from the original design on later 8v.

Anyone know if this tool will do to compress the shim bucket?
http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Valve-Spring-Compressor-Lever-Type-OHV-OHC-Sealey-VS168

emm, where did you order the hoses and how much?

And what did you use to spray stuff matt blac (not por 15) as yours looks black while mine dries grey.

thanks, and keep up the good work!

WeeTony said

emm, where did you order the hoses and how much?

And what did you use to spray stuff matt blac (not por 15) as yours looks black while mine dries grey.

thanks, and keep up the good work!

The hoses are made by Gates, probably the largest timing belt/hose manufacturer in the world, so you should be able to source them locally through a motor factor anywhere. As i work for a company that stocks Gates it wasn't much, but i think about ?6 - ?10 a hose i think is the approx retail price.

Most are the ones for the DX engine as that is pretty much the oldest mk1 hose sets they do. You can buy them individually to suit and I finally got the remainder from VW that Gates can't supply.

The block and head and gearbox is POR15 engine enamel (come in about 10 colours mine being gloss black)

The pulleys, dist cap, coil and a few other plastic parts are Matt black engine enamel by Simoniz, after using Acid 8 etch primer on metal parts first and obviously a plastic primer on the dist cap etc.

I have been waiting for the post to deliver a shim removal pliers, but my lack of patience got the better of me, and in an effort to crack on with the engine, I sorted the remaining shims via cam removal.

This is the shim tool if anyone is looking for one, and my shim sheet.








You should be able to pry out the shim at the small cut out point.  However I couldn?t, no matter what I used without the pliers, so i removed the cam.



So with the data from the first batch of new shims above I waited for another batch of shims to arrive.  Funnily enough they arrived next day, but the pliers still aren?t here a week later.  So I replaced the ones I could replace with the cam out and tried out a few shims in the valves that weren?t giving a reading at all (due to valves seats being cut).  

These ones turned out to be trickier requiring a 0.20 jump each stage to see if I could get a reading.  I ordered some more shims down to 3.10 in steps of 0.05 and after a few rotations of the cam and a few further replacements I am now sorted .20 inlet and 0.40 exhaust on all valves,  i checked it all with 3 passes of measuring the shims just to check i got the same readings each time.

So camlube applied again and the head left to one side.  I have a load of shims in various sizes but for the moment i will keep hold of them as i will need to check the settings after a few hundred miles running.








Now the easy part of fitting the block, crank and head back together?  

Loooking very good mate well done.

Cheers Bigadd

So all back together and waiting for the powder coated rocker cover and oil pan


Got a front mount spacer plate made up :thumbup:



Snapped a ring in during the install but its away under warranty to see if the manufacturer will cover it.  I doubt it but its no good to me so i may as well ask.




Oil pump primed and windage tray on.  I have been told to fill the oil  pump to improve initial oil pick up so i used essembly lube as suggested to help the process.


And a few random pics

It seems people have various methods for building up the 2 and 3 piece wheels.  The method I used is from an American 2/3 piece wheel specialist from a VW site.  It involves Not using sealant near, above or below the bolt holes, but on the back of the rim.

Why?

1:  If you put sealant on the edge of the basket you will have sealant bleeding on the rim
2:  If you put sealant in between each wheel hole, you will have sealant in the threads and more bleeding around the bolt holes.
3: The most important one, as the sealant shrinks over time you will have a gap form, which can leak air and alter the torque of the bolts.

So with this in mind i went for the sealant on the back of the rim and ignored the other BBS builds

Getting started: Torque the wheel bolts to spec











Finished bead



The wheels need to be left for 24 hours, and if you want to you can apply a 2nd bead over the top, and leave for a further 24 hours prior to tyres being fitted.




Car went to body shop for a month. (old wheels)



And powder coating done!

Coarse matt finish for the engine bay stuff, and semi matt sheen on the wiper arms and window channels, to try and make them as OE as possible. Won't be fitting the cam belt cover but had it done while the rest was in to be coated, seemed stupid not to when you pay for a batch of parts  :thumbup:  




The method about sealing BBS definitely works!  

165/50R15 Bridgestone Potenzas.  I will keep these to one side and when the car is back i will sell the 14" BBS, and stick these on.





Cheers Unkle

HIya mate, getting there aren't you. The wheels and tyres look great, not too over the top but classy.

Any chance you can send me this shot, I'm after it for the calendar?



Cheers

T

Yeah i love the coloured BBS but fear the colour i choose may age long before i want, or have the fund to change the colour again.  So standard finish was chosen.  

I will send that pic when i get home

Cheers Emm

Lovely job as always really taking shape now.

hey man!

good project!!!!!!!!

Where do you get your parts from? im after door seals but not having any luck
cheers

great work - always nice when you're puttin back on nice freshly painted parts!

Thanks for the comments

ianpettifer said

hey man!

good project!!!!!!!!

Where do you get your parts from? im after door seals but not having any luck
cheers

Door seals are a pain to get hold of, used to be TPC in Hitchin that could get them, but don't think they can anymore.  Try Funkstar or Crazyquiffs both do cabby bits i think and may have a few used ones in good nick :wink: