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Where can i get a lightened flywheel for Mk1 Golf Cabriolet?

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Where can i get a lightened flywheel for Mk1 Golf Cabriolet?

Where can i get a lightened flywheel for Mk1 Golf Cabriolet? Does anybody know if yes it would be a great help!

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The normal thing to do is to take your own flywheel off and get it lightened, at a machine shop. Firms which do machining for the motor trade, are your best bet and will be thoroughly familiar with where to remove material, etc.

                                

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make sure they balance it at the same time

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Re: Where can i get a lightened flywheel for Mk1 Golf Cabrio

Lilley03 said

Does anybody know if yes it would be a great help!

That would really depend on what you mean by a great help. It does nothing to "make horsepower" if that is your question. And there are down sides to using a lightened flywheel also.

Be very careful of buying one off the Internet from places like ebay or from many machine shops as well. There is a correct and safe way to remove the weight and of course a wrong and dangerous way. I have seen examples of dangerous ways often and the gains are not worth the damage or health risks doing things that way.

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this was mine…

Before:
http://smg.photobucket…Track%20Car/DCP_5706s.jpg

After (notice the drill balancing marks):
http://img.photobucket…Track%20Car/DCP_6210s.jpg
http://img.photobucket…Track%20Car/DCP_6209s.jpg
http://img.photobucket…Track%20Car/DCP_6212s.jpg

I have a good LONG document i could post up explaining what effects & how they work though your brain might explode  :lol:   :wink:

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when i get mine done i'm going to take the clutch and crank it too  so the can lighten and balance the whole lot together so help the engine rev a bit quicker!

hello!

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fthaimike said

I have a good LONG document i could post up explaining what effects & how they work though your brain might explode  :lol:   :wink:

Hi, please post the document, or if its to long please PM or email me it as im shortly doing the whole bottom end. :D
Cheers Simon.

It's ten years since i went out of my my mind - I'd never go back.



Mk1 1993 Cabriolet

Audi A4 SE Avant

Audi TT Roadster 225 Quatro

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When the flywheel of a car is lightened it can have a great effect on acceleration - much more than just the weight saving as a proportion of the total vehicle weight would account for. This is because rotating components store rotational energy as well as having to be accelerated in a linear direction along with the rest of the car's mass. The faster a component rotates, the greater the amount of rotational kinetic energy that ends up being stored in it. The engine turns potential energy from fuel into kinetic energy of motion when it accelerates a vehicle. Any energy that ends up being stored in rotating components is not available to accelerate the car in a linear direction - so reducing the mass (or more properly the "moment of inertia") of these components leaves more of the engine's output to accelerate the car. It can be useful to know how much weight we would need to remove from the chassis to equate to removing a given amount of weight from the flywheel (or any other rotating component). There is more than one way of solving this equation - we can work out the torque and forces acting on the various components and hence calculate the accelerations involved - also we can solve it by considering the kinetic energy of the system. The latter approach is simpler to explain so this is the one shown below.

Let's imagine we take two identical cars - to car A we add 1 Kg of mass to the circumference of the flywheel at radius "r" from the centre. To car B we add exactly the right amount of mass to the chassis so that both cars continue to accelerate at the same rate. If we accelerate both cars for the same amount of time they will end up at the same speed and will have absorbed the same amount of kinetic energy from the engine. In other words, the additional 1 Kg in the flywheel of car A will have stored the same amount of kinetic energy as the additional M Kg of mass in the chassis of car B. To solve the problem of the size of M we need to use the following definitions:

V - the speed of either car after the period of acceleration
R - the tyre radius
G - the total gearing (i.e. the number of engine revolutions for each tyre revolution)
r - the flywheel radius (i.e. the radius at which the extra mass has been added to car A)
M - the amount of mass added to the chassis of car B

Kinetic energy is proportional to ?mv? - the kinetic energy stored in the extra chassis mass in car B is therefore ?MV?.

The extra 1 Kg of flywheel mass in car A stores linear kinetic energy in the same way as if it were just part of the chassis. After all, every part of the car is travelling at V m/s - so it stores linear kinetic energy of ? x 1 x V? = ?V?.

To find out how much rotational kinetic energy the 1 Kg stores, we need to know the speed the flywheel circumference is travelling at. The car is travelling at the same speed as the circumference of the tyre (assuming no tyre slip of course). We know that for every revolution of the tyre, the flywheel makes G revolutions. However the flywheel is a different size to the tyre - so the speed of the circumference of the flywheel is VGr/R. The rotational kinetic energy is therefore ?(VGr/R)?.

Now we can put the whole equation together - the extra kinetic energy in the chassis of car B = the sum of the linear and rotational kinetic energies in the 1 Kg of flywheel mass of car A - therefore:
?MV? = ?V? + ?(VGr/R)? =>
?MV? = ?V? + ?V?(Gr/R)? => divide both sides by ?V? to arrive at the final equation:
M = 1 + (Gr/R)?

That wasn't so bad then - we managed to avoid using true rotational dynamics involving radians and moments of inertia by considering the actual speed of the flywheel circumference. This did of course involve assuming that all the mass added or removed from the flywheel was at the same radius from the centre. In the real world that is not going to be the case so we need to use moments of inertia rather than mass to solve the equation. The simple equation above is useful though in getting an idea of the relative effect of lightening components provided we have a good idea of the average radius that the metal is removed from. It can be seen that gearing is an important factor in this equation. The higher the gearing the greater the effect of reducing weight - so for a real car the effect is large in 1st gear and progressively less important in the higher gears. We can also hopefully see that when r is larger, so is the effective chassis weight M. So removing mass from the outside of the flywheel is more effective than removing it from nearer the centre.

It might at first look as though tyre diameter is important but of course it isn't for a real car - if tyre size was to change then so would gearing have to if overall mph per thousand rpm were to stay the same - the two factors would then cancel out again.

To show the sort of numbers that a real car might have, I did some calculations based on a car with average gear ratios and tyre sizes - the table below shows the number of Kg of mass that would have to be removed from the chassis to equate to 1 Kg removed from the O/D of the flywheel at a radius of 5 inches.

GEAR MASS KG
1 39
2 12
3 6
4 4
5 3

So in first and second gear this is a pretty important effect - I built an engine recently and managed to remove nearly 3 Kg from the outside of the standard flywheel - so that would be equivalent to lightening the car by over 100 Kg in 1st gear - not to be sneezed at in terms of acceleration from rest. With special steel or aluminium flywheels even more "moment of inertia" can be saved. The recent trend in racing engines to using very small and light paddle clutches and flywheels is therefore more effective in terms of the overall performance of the vehicle than it might first appear.

There's a final consequence of the "flywheel effect" being dependent on gearing. Small highly tuned, high revving engines need to run much higher (numerically) gearing than large, low tuned engines. This means that the effect can be very pronounced on them. Bike engines are a good case in point, especially as they are now starting to be used in cars so much. A 100 bhp bike engine might only be 600cc and rev to 12,000 rpm. A 100 bhp car engine might be 2 litres and rev to 5,500 rpm. Put the bike engine in a car and you'll need to run a final drive ratio twice as high as for the car engine. As the flywheel effect is proportional to the square of gearing, it will be 4 times as high for the bike engine. You could therefore be talking about 1kg off the flywheel being equivalent to 160kg off the weight of the car. That's why bike engines have such small multiplate clutches to keep the moment of inertia down. On the other side of the coin, it's not worth spending much money lightening the flywheel of a 7 litre Chevy engine revving to under 5,000 and geared for 60 mph in first as the vehicle will be very insensitive to the reduction in weight.

If you are going to get your standard cast iron road car flywheel lightened then be sure to take it to a proper vehicle engineer and not just your local machine shop. Take off too much material and it might be weakened so much that it explodes in use. Given that flywheels (at least in rear wheel drive cars) tend to be situated about level with your feet, it isn't worth the extra acceleration if you lose both feet when the ring gear comes out through the side of the transmission tunnel like a buzz saw at 7,000 rpm. There are plenty of ex racing drivers hobbling about on crutches who'll tell you that this can and does happen. On FWD cars the effects can even more unpleasant - a flywheel entering the cabin can give you a split personality starting from just below the waist that will put quite a crimp in your day. Also when you remove any weight from the flywheel it will need re-balancing again properly. We'll be happy to do the job for you if you don't know of an experienced engineering shop.

Addenda (May 2002). A friend, Garry, told me an interesting story the other day which relates to my warning above about lightening flywheels properly. He was at the local engine reconditioners chatting to the proprietor about having a cylinder head skimmed. At the back of the workshop, one of the lads who worked there was lightening a flywheel on the lathe. Suddenly there was an almighty bang and a lot of swearing so Garry and the owner went back to see what had happened. The lad had been removing material from the centre of the flywheel, just outboard of where the 6 crankshaft bolt holes are. For starters this is a stupid place to remove material because it is a highly stressed area and also much less effective in terms of the reduction in inertia than removing material from the rim of the flywheel. Anyway, to cut a long story short this idiot had machined right through the flywheel leaving the centre attached to the chuck of the lathe and the rest had flown off and bounced across the workshop. It made me wonder what would have happened if he'd stopped just short of machining right through, say with only 1mm thickness of material left, without realising how thin and weak he'd made it. It would then have failed in the car, maybe at high rpm, and done the sort of damage I describe above. The moral is clear. Get critical work like this done by someone who knows what they are doing - like me

Other Rotating Components:
All other components which rotate absorb energy in addition to them having to be accelerated linearly along with the chassis. Components which rotate at engine speed like flywheels are the most cost effective ones to lighten in terms of their equivalent chassis mass but it pays not to overlook the mass of any rotating component. The next major category is items which rotate at wheel speed - wheels, tyres, discs etc. These don't rotate as fast as engine components but they can be very heavy. The average car wheel and tyre weigh about 45 lbs together. A good rule of thumb is that in addition to its own normal weight a wheel speed item adds the equivalent of an extra 3/4 of its mass to the effective chassis mass and this figure is not dependent on gearing so it stays a constant at all times. It's a smaller effect than the flywheel effect which can be many times its own mass in first gear but still important. Let's say you fit wide wheels and tyres to your car. If each corner weighs an extra 10 lbs more than the standard items then the effective increase in chassis mass is 40 lbs for the direct weight plus another 30 lbs being 3/4 of the direct mass - a total of 70 lbs. On a light car like a Westfield or hillclimb single seater this could be between 5% and 7% of the effective total car weight. Equivalent to knocking the same percentage off the engine's power in acceleration terms. That's why F1 and other high tech series designers strive so hard to reduce weight in this area and use magnesium instead of aluminium for wheels and the thinnest possible carcasses for tyres. It also reduces unsprung weight of course which helps the suspension and handling. Even on a 1 ton road car the effect of heavy wheels and tyres can be noticeable in terms of reduced acceleration. Wider tyres also absorb a bit more power in friction which doesn't help either if the engine is on the small side.

The other few rotating items, gearbox internals, camshafts etc are generally of small diameter and not worth lightening because of their consequent low inertia. One thing I can promise you is that the current fad for anodised aluminium cam pulleys which then usually get hidden behind a cover anyway won't make a scrap of difference to your engine because of the few grams weight they save. They may well wear out and cost you your entire engine if the teeth strip off the belt though. Aluminium is not really the material for gears and sprockets but when did fashion and common sense ever go together?

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fly wheels

Hi, thanks for that, a good bit of reading, my bottom end lightening and balancing is going to be done by Park Engineering in Malton North Yorks. Thr guy advised that he would have to see the vw flywheel before hand as he was not familiar with it. Have you got some guide lines as to what and where the material can be removed from the fly wheel??. This company does work on race/rally/autograss engines and i last used them in 1985 to do a fiesta engine (my 2nd car after the usual Mini), so they have been around a while :D
Cheers Simon.

It's ten years since i went out of my my mind - I'd never go back.



Mk1 1993 Cabriolet

Audi A4 SE Avant

Audi TT Roadster 225 Quatro

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check the pics above

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Although removing material from the transmission side as shown in the above pictures might look nice to the buyer, you can see some work was done, it does very little good and can be dangerous. The above picture seems to only show the "ribs" having been machined off on that side which is not really all that dangerous, but they were there for support and not just added weight. What you want, if you read the quoted post or visit some place like Puma Racing, is to remove weight from the outer edge of the flywheel (seems it was also done on the above pictures). The picture below would be good to show your machinist. Notice the large engine side weight was machined off (by the ring gear) and if you look close you will still see the ribs on the transmission side (no gains removing them).

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So your saying my flywheel "could" be dangerous? Strange as mine were done by someone who has done a great amount of flywheels/gearboxes for UK people without any problems.

mine was an 8v flywheel, though my lightened one looks almost identical to the one you posted above.

I was told there is a safe limit to how much you can/should take from it.

My 2.1 8v rev limit is set to 6300

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lightened flywheel

Doh, missed them :dontknow: , did you do a before and after weighing to determine how much weight you saved?
Cheers Simon.

It's ten years since i went out of my my mind - I'd never go back.



Mk1 1993 Cabriolet

Audi A4 SE Avant

Audi TT Roadster 225 Quatro

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lightened flywheel

Great pic Grubbyfingers, all you guys pics are printed ready to take with me, again any figures on weight savings made?
cheers Simon.

PS any pics before and after of lightened/balanced cranks & rods? (edit)

It's ten years since i went out of my my mind - I'd never go back.



Mk1 1993 Cabriolet

Audi A4 SE Avant

Audi TT Roadster 225 Quatro

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flywheel lightening

GrubbyFingers, looking at your pictures it looks like a small amount has been taken of the starter motor ring gear, is this correct?. If so what was the final thickness measurement of the ring gear?
Cheers Simon.

It's ten years since i went out of my my mind - I'd never go back.



Mk1 1993 Cabriolet

Audi A4 SE Avant

Audi TT Roadster 225 Quatro

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I have asked a few friends to comment on my flywheel if that is ok?

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Another flywheel:





020 210mm Flywheel went from 4.98kg down the 3.16kg

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Hiya Mike, just seen this on here and CGTi.
Yes you can machine the outer raised face without consequence. What you shouldn't do is take material willy nilly off that face past the ribs. I have a size I work to that has had no detremental effect on any flywheel I have done.
As you can see on the flywheels I machine I remove the material on the outer rear edge, plus the ribbing.
If people specify a roughish weight then I leave the ribs on. Granted, the further in to the centre you go the less effect it has, but the raised ribs help to imbalance the flywheel once the rear counter weight has been removed, which can then lead to a flywheel full of holes trying to bring it back into balance(although some times it's inevitable not to end with a shed full of balancing holes due to the poor castings of the flywheels in general)
 I will also put off people who want to go too light. All you do is raise the chances of the flywheel failing. I've seen a post on Vortex of an overly lightened flywheel, where the friction surface is done to around 4-5mm. This is just dangerous.
There are also quite a few that look right, but in fact are border line, being machined with no rads in the corners which will increase the chances of shear points. Not good!

Having done quite a few of these now I can say that what I do is well and truely tried and tested, with many track cars using them with no ill effects.

I must add my own flywheel I machined for the mk1 16v 2.1 is one that I took to what I would call my limit as it was on my own car, and it worked exceptionally well on a daily basis to my 8400rpm limit.

If anyone has any doubts about buying from ebay then simply don't buy one. I've seen loads out there that are being sold as balanced and don't come with a pressure plate, nor are there any drill/balancing marks on them, so surely they are not as described.

The likes of myself, Puma etc have been doing this for years, and know what does and what doesn't work. And I can only speak for myself but, I wouldn't put my name against something I thought would be a danger to anyone else, end of.

Hope this settle your mind matey, your flywheels are spot on ;)

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fthaimike said

So your saying my flywheel "could" be dangerous? Strange as mine were done by someone who has done a great amount of flywheels/gearboxes…

I think what I said and then what hotgolf posted should answer that question. It seems that to maintain balance once the large counter weight is machined off the ribs should also be trimmed off. They are not there for looks, who would see them anyhow, but apparently are not all that important. "Could" is a small work which can be used in many big ways. Please don't turn my "could" into stating that your flywheel "is" dangerous. For you and anyone else thinking of using a lightened flywheel, understand the principals behind the machine work, understand and watch out for the danger points and know the pros/cons and you should be fine and safe.

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Thanks Martyn

GrimyFingers i knew the answer sorry as "hotgolf" Martyn made my flywheel & many others though information for others is alway a good thing.

I just started worrying what others would think when you mentioned my pictures, what work was done & the wording "dangerous" in the same paragraph as people may have thought you meant mine (i know some was in brackets though it looked like an after thought).

sorry for any confusion either way.

mike

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